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Replacing lower ball joints

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by JTrean, Mar 1, 2015.

  1. Mar 1, 2015 at 1:23 PM
    #1
    JTrean

    JTrean [OP] Well-Known Member

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  2. Mar 1, 2015 at 1:28 PM
    #2
    MrRiverMan

    MrRiverMan Compulsive tinkerer

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  3. Mar 1, 2015 at 1:43 PM
    #3
    JTrean

    JTrean [OP] Well-Known Member

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  4. Mar 1, 2015 at 2:09 PM
    #4
    Moco

    Moco Well-Known Member

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    Yup. That one will work fine. You can buy it locally at Advance, using the discount codes, to get it cheap and save shipping.
     
  5. Mar 1, 2015 at 4:48 PM
    #5
    hughesjrm

    hughesjrm Well-Known Member

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    There is a flat spot on the rear of the LCA. Normally a couple of smacks with a 4lbs BFH and she pops free.
     
  6. Mar 1, 2015 at 6:32 PM
    #6
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

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    I don't like the two piece ones because all the stress is on the pivot pin and not on the part so I don't trust them, there are just too many moving parts to break or slip that can get you hurt.

    I like the solid unit style because 100% of the force is applied directly to the shaft of the ball joint to force it out so it is more efficient and requires less pressure applied so it is much safer and wont slip off or come apart if you ever have one stuck on real good.

    get the one MrRiverMan linked you to or this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-1...1442233934&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

    either one is the solid one piece design you want in a tool like this, those scissor clamp things are trash, they might work, just like a socket set from tiawan but they are still both cheap crap, so get a good tool so you do the job right without problems or busted or missing fingers.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2015
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  7. Mar 1, 2015 at 6:39 PM
    #7
    bighouse01

    bighouse01 Well-Known Member

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    If your replacing parts and not worried about ripping boots then a $5 pickle fork separator and the BFH and have at it.
     
  8. Mar 1, 2015 at 6:59 PM
    #8
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    If you've got a spacer lift, there might be too much pressure. So Jack the control arm up to take some pressure off and it should pop out. Mines a bitch like that anyways.
     
  9. Mar 1, 2015 at 7:06 PM
    #9
    Rmodel65

    Rmodel65 Yukon Cornelius

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    Hammer ftw
     
  10. Mar 1, 2015 at 7:42 PM
    #10
    JTrean

    JTrean [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Not a fan of the hammer method. I would rather not risk flattening the ball joint seat. Thanks for all of the replays. I ordered the pitman arm puller linked above.
     
  11. Mar 1, 2015 at 8:21 PM
    #11
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    It's not gonna flatten. Lol. The tool is certainly the way to go. But a hammer is usually my first option. Few hits then if it doesn't pop loose, I go get the tool.

    I couldn't find it one day and couldn't get the Damn thing to pop loose. I ended up hammering the shit out of the spindle and buggered up the threads. Had to go down and get a new ball joint. Worked out though cuz AutoZone is cool about lifetime warranties and got one for free. Even though it was my fault and not normal wear and tear. ha.
     
  12. Mar 1, 2015 at 8:36 PM
    #12
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

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    where these tools are a life saver is if you do a blonde thing and take the wrong one off first then you trying to pop the other one loose its not as easy.

    I did this by pulling the ball joint before taking the tie rod loose and it was a PITA to undo ever after retightening the ball joint.

    cant say why but it does make a difference in how they pop loose or don't pop loose.

    its also great to have for the top ball joint where you don't have room for hammers and all that
     
  13. Mar 1, 2015 at 9:50 PM
    #13
    opteron

    opteron Well-Known Member

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    I would check to go recall enter Vin number

    I just had my lower ball joints replaced under the recall. Previous owner never took the Tacoma to the dealer. It worth a short and checking.
     
  14. Mar 1, 2015 at 10:12 PM
    #14
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    While we are on the subject :

    I recently replaced my outer tre's using a one-piece puller, like the one MrRiverMan linked to. When I get around to doing the lower ball joints, can I use that same tool or do I need a bigger one ?
     
  15. Mar 2, 2015 at 5:07 AM
    #15
    JTrean

    JTrean [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It depends on the size of the tool. The one posted should work for both. They come in different sizes so you won't likely know until you try it.
     
  16. Mar 2, 2015 at 5:08 AM
    #16
    JTrean

    JTrean [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, just checked and no active recalls :(
     
  17. Mar 2, 2015 at 5:27 AM
    #17
    MrRiverMan

    MrRiverMan Compulsive tinkerer

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    To those in the hammer faction: make sure you don't have a moment of indiscretion and hit the threaded post on the tie rod end to try and break it loose. This can easily mess up the end of the threads. Then you will either have to buy a new tie rod end, or you will have to drive all over town looking for the right sized thread chasing die to clean up the threads you bungled. Don't ask me how I know...

    Another note: if you use the pittman arm puller, you can save the old ball joints as spares to get you out of the woods if you ever break one while wheeling.
     
    Willbeck likes this.

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