TORSPD: NEVR

That is what i was thinking as well, about the clevis' from Camburg. The last shop that i spoke with was talking about using effectively a straight bolt as the attachment point to the steering, versus these which are shown in the Readylift page. I prefer the Readylift style more.

 

This is what I am trying for. I need the added articulation of the heim, and simplicity. My angles are pretty sharp due to the drop. Doesn't need to be steroid strong. Lol. I don't have all
of the off-road forces going on.

 

Just looked at the link from Readylift, and they are Camburg heim joint adapters.

 

I would consider doing something like this, but having the tie rods being the weak link keeps me from blowing the steering rack.

So the fancy ball joint adapter isn't necessary if you don't mind drilling out your spindles, is that what I'm seeing?

 

Correct. Just wont ever be able to run traditional tie rods without swapping knuckles out

 

something like what mike did, and you'd still be good. inner tie rod is what bends on the 2nd gens. do an outer tube tie rod with a rod end, and you still maintain your proper weak point, but you no longer have a ball joint to blow out. would also allow you to run the bolt in double sheer. not so much to the benefit of the bolt, since you don't see many of those bent/break, but more-so for the benefit of the steering arm on the spindle.

 

^^^ Yup.

Moving forward. Finally ordered a new seat today. We made a pact to all get some form of upgraded seats, after the last race. Time is drawing ever closer, so I bit the bullet. Very excited!

http://www.subesports.com/products/cat/Seats/brand/Cobra/prodID/671

 

hey Tor,

Curious if you've done anything like this before? What are the pros and cons to this? From what I've heard, the only con is the $700 fee plus shipping...

S/C Porting
http://stiegemeier.com

 

I haven't. There have been a few on XRU whom have though. Super Werty did as well, and he still around here.

He said he noticed a little gain. If i remember correctly.

 

Hmmmm seeing as how my S/C is sitting in the box still in my garage...I'm contemplating if the $800ish is worth it for 10% extra boost

 

Here is the thread i have been searching for. http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50075.

It won't raise your boost, but it will reduce restriction, increase flow, and possibly reduce some heat. Increased flow and reduced restriction on an s/c, usually makes the boost number drop. While the added volume of air increases hp.

 

To add to what tor said:

Just remember boost (its actual psi number) is a measure of resistance in the system. Same thing as going with a larger turbo, psi drops but youre still pushing more air and getting more power

 

Thank you Sacrifice.

Another fuel system update. Got around to installing the Injector Dynamics ID1300 's. From this, with the stock injectors to aftermarket.









I ran into an issue with connecting the harness to the injectors though. The adapter i have are solid. So they extend the plug up much higher then if my harness had the proper connector for those injectors. With this larger fuel rail, the space between it and the head is reduced, coupled with the added height of the adapters, I could not plug them together.

Long ago, when i had RC Engineering injectors, i changed the pigtails of the factory harness to that of the RC Engineering injectors. Which is an EV1 connector. Point is, I was able to get the wired adapters instead of solid ones, from www.connectorsfast.com. Custom injectors harnesses of EV1 to USCAR (or EV6). Those will be here soon, and I'll be able to fire this sucker up.

 

Been getting a lot of questions about my suspension setup lately. So I am going to post all of the pictures up together, to help out.

Starting here.












To here with the Tundra Rear only axle flip kit. QA1 front coil over with ProComp strut adapters.












Those are Eibach 14" x 2.5" by 600ppi springs. ^^^
Had some bad axle wrap, so added on some Caltracs.

















CAUTION*** Let it be known that these axle perches must be welded together, or the sides will flex and cause the axle to rotate upward!

Their are other spring under axle conversions available, and their perches are already welded and ready to bolt on. That might be a better option for some people, however, I do not remember where I saw them.













Back to OEM rear shackles from the Tundra Racing ones.

 

The QA1 's sleeve never fit right, and this was the damage.







Upgraded to Ohlins.

















Took an inch out of the top of the steering knuckles.





Low pro bumps from www.xiiperformance.com



That pretty much sums it up, minus the mods needed for the one piece drive shaft, trimming the front bump stops, and front and rear sway bar upgrades. New springs are soon to be 750ppi ftom PAC springs.

 

what not go with dual rate springs? that why you get both the nice supple ride and the firm ride that you'd want for track use. that of course will also require some shock valving tuning

 

So if i understand it correctly, porting the SC is effectively making it larger on the inside(and cleaning it out a bit for smoother airflow), thereby reducing boost, but increasing airflow and allowing a larger amount of air inside for more horsepower?

Basically its increasing the size of the supercharger. If I understand that right, I can do this along with supporting mods(fuel/air/exhaust) and a smaller pulley for more horsepower and boost?

 

Haven't been interested in going that route as of yet. We'll see what the future holds though.

It doesn't increase the "size" as in its liter size, as that is controlled by the size of the lobes in their casing. It does increase the amount of air that can get to the lobes, by way of less restriction though.

There was a member on XRU who went by Sparkys Tacoma. He did the Steig Snakebite to his TRD. Bumped the boost up to 16 PSI. He ended up getting heavy porting on his outlet of the TRD s/c, lower plenum, and exhaust ports. Dropped the displayed psi down to around 10.

To answer your question, no additional mods will be necessary to compensate for just the port job. As for a smaller pulley, that depends on how small you go.

 

Well, I'm thinking on getting the Steig thing done, headers and exhaust, and probably an AFE CAI, as well as the URD 2.85 stealth pulley. That should start me off nicely to go down your path LOL

 

In my opinion you need to becareful or you can break a hole in your engine block since your 1GR is stock id recommend piston rods and piston heads but im a safe person when it comes to engine blocks upping boost can cause issues