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Home Improvement Today?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Hotdog, Jul 28, 2008.

  1. Mar 7, 2015 at 7:45 PM
    #4161
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-Pro

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    It seems to be a running theme on this site to immediately criticize rather than offer constructive criticism. So I can see where he would take offense.
     
  2. Mar 7, 2015 at 7:45 PM
    #4162
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    There is no difference in the cords in that scenario with the exception that you can see the cord that is not in the wall , and extension cords are not rated for in wall use

    My brother's house fire was determined to be most likely overloaded circuits from homeowner wiring which was done over the years to the old house he bought that looked to have about 3 or 4 different hippy cobbled together additions done to it over the years
     
  3. Mar 7, 2015 at 7:46 PM
    #4163
    Saskquatch11

    Saskquatch11 TRUCK YEAH

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    The difference is the floor is an approved condition of use for cords, in a wall is not an approved condition of use for cords. Whether you agree with that or not is irrelevant.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2015
  4. Mar 7, 2015 at 7:47 PM
    #4164
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    I did ask you and you told me in the future the proper way would have been to drill through which I was too late for. I mean personally the proper fix would be to tear floor to ceiling and re stud right? Or box it completely with several cross studs? Tbh I felt I was not really at a point where I could fix it without creating more work for myself. I took risk vs reward into account and went with it. I am taking it as an attack at this point as you made no mention against my methods of rectifying the potential issue and then continuing to harp on it.

    Now is the fix I put in place a semi decent solution or should I have done more? (Obviously didn't but still curious for next time)
     
  5. Mar 7, 2015 at 7:50 PM
    #4165
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    vvvvvvvv , and I'm done with this conversation















     
  6. Mar 7, 2015 at 8:07 PM
    #4166
    Saskquatch11

    Saskquatch11 TRUCK YEAH

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    tldr footnotes:

    protection of persons and property
     
  7. Mar 7, 2015 at 8:09 PM
    #4167
    PAlittlematty

    PAlittlematty "the soulless ginger"

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    I miss my taco
    OME Lift, 885 Coils, 13MM Top Spacer, Dakar Leafs, DSM UCAs, Homeroshi Flush Mount Grille, WeatherTech Digifit Mats, Bestop Super Top, Toyota Bed Extender, Clevice Receiver 1990 SR5 3.slow SAS 5” Leafs, high pinion diff, 37” PBRs, MC rear, AP front bumpers, 5.29s, locked
    Well this got interesting. I thought painting my livingroom was exciting today
     
  8. Mar 7, 2015 at 8:14 PM
    #4168
    T4RFTMFW

    T4RFTMFW Well-Known Member

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  9. Mar 7, 2015 at 8:37 PM
    #4169
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-Pro

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    Bethel Park, PA. Burb of da Burgh.
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    TRD Cat-back Exhaust. Semi-Debadged. Trimmed down stock Antenna. Weathertech vent visors. TRD FJ Cruiser Center Cap Wheel Mod. 265/75/16 Firestone Destination A/T,s . Inverter tapped into for outlet in cab. Tacomaworld sticker which adds 5 hp.
    I'm not using an extension cord. I was talking about running the actual power cord. Either way. I was just throwing it out there. This was of course all before I knew it was for a client's house. If I'm paying someone, I'd expect it to be up to code. Mine is not technically running "in" the wall. I have my tv on a wall that also closes in under stairs storage. So everything runs into that storage room one way or another and into a surge protector. But I wouldn't hesitate to run the power cord through a wall and feel fine about it. Just my personal opinion.

    And got it.

    Ok. I don't want a fire anywhere. And I'm not talking about running a lamp cord extention cord through a wall. And also, this is not a permanent thing. I leave this house, my tv and power cord is coming with me. Nothing would be left "not up to code" for another person. My point is, it's no safer. Code or not. With this specific application.

    I didn't read back. So I assumed. My bad.
     
  10. Mar 7, 2015 at 8:39 PM
    #4170
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-Pro

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    Bethel Park, PA. Burb of da Burgh.
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    TRD Cat-back Exhaust. Semi-Debadged. Trimmed down stock Antenna. Weathertech vent visors. TRD FJ Cruiser Center Cap Wheel Mod. 265/75/16 Firestone Destination A/T,s . Inverter tapped into for outlet in cab. Tacomaworld sticker which adds 5 hp.
    Boooorrring. :D
     
  11. Mar 8, 2015 at 9:17 AM
    #4171
    jsi

    jsi Well-Known Member

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    native earthling
    Since the thread seems to be stuck on code violations here are my latest violations :eek: - I ran out of nail plates for the stud next to the washer box. And I had to run the water through the back of the stud to clear the washer drain vent. Since the other side of the wall is behind the kitchen counter I'm not too worried about that. And I'd have to use a 3+ inch screw to hit the pipe from this side. However, since I'm a bit anal I'll probably put a nail plate in, just because.

    dryer rough.jpg
     
  12. Mar 8, 2015 at 10:40 AM
    #4172
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    I like using the in-wall dryer boxes
     
  13. Mar 8, 2015 at 11:35 AM
    #4173
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    Like the one he's using?
    Is that the supply and drain all in one box? Is the round part on top just another drain incase you have to install it upside down?
     
  14. Mar 8, 2015 at 11:59 AM
    #4174
    jsi

    jsi Well-Known Member

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    native earthling
    It's the first time I've used one. I like the clean install, but locally not one supply place had the down vent version in stock. Apparently everyone is going up through the roof because they had stacks and stacks of that configuration.

    I don't know what you'd use that upper hole for. There are 3 holes in the bottom and there are different valve configurations available. I chose the single lever version because it is dead simple for my wife to shut off. But if you like multiple valve models you can arrange the valve and drain in any hole that would work for your setup.
    washer.jpg
     
  15. Mar 8, 2015 at 3:22 PM
    #4175
    Frkypunk

    Frkypunk "Death is what you make of it."

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    Got the gas mileage down to 13mpg! Modification complete
    So you will have to under cut all your jambs and trim and also cut all your doors down in these areas? Also you may have to put pretty large transition strips in areas not getting this treatment? That's why I thought its seemed like a lot of work. Only reason I asked, is I have watched where people did this and still had squeaks because the squeak came from the subfloor and floor joist moving against each other. It's kinda like putting a new house on a old foundation. Your best bet might be to re- screw the original sub floor down then go over that with glued and ring shank nailed luan. Just food for Thought though:)
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2015
  16. Mar 8, 2015 at 3:24 PM
    #4176
    Frkypunk

    Frkypunk "Death is what you make of it."

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    I just used the sharkbite one in my house clean and quick install...the top hole I believe is if you want to flip it around.
     
  17. Mar 8, 2015 at 5:38 PM
    #4177
    Ride98red

    Ride98red You people are so petty...and tiny

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    Aaron
    NOVA
    Gatekeeper tailgate "lock", WeatherTech floor liners - Front and Rear, Factor 55 Hitch Link w/Van Beest 3/4" D-ring Shackle, ARB 30' Snatch Strap, Trailer Hitch Socket Relocate, Skygear Waterproof Fuse/Relay Box, LED Bed Lights, QuickFists with custom mount
    Appreciate the advice. I will be doing the entire main floor flooring so its all going to be one height - no transitions. Cutting jambs, not even an issue. Cutting doors, probably wont have to cut them as they are pretty high as it is now.
    The floors now are glued and nailed. The squeaking is from the tongue and groove between the joists. Its only 3/4" particle board. The house is fairly new - 2007.
    I've been doing flooring now for about 20 years. Just another job.
     
  18. Mar 8, 2015 at 6:10 PM
    #4178
    SH7mi

    SH7mi Elite Performance Tune PA MD DE NJ

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    JSI,
    The metal box at the floor to the right of the wash box is the in-wall dryer box? I like that if thats what it is. For use on an interior wall I'm guessing.
     
  19. Mar 8, 2015 at 6:17 PM
    #4179
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    They come in different sizes , you can use them on interior and exterior walls , I have done both

    http://www.dryerbox.com
     
  20. Mar 8, 2015 at 6:26 PM
    #4180
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic Broke ass

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    If you used sharkbite you will have a leak.
    The extra hole is good for ac or soft3ner drain.
     

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