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Eco Block from crawford performance

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by laney487, Jan 26, 2015.

  1. Mar 11, 2015 at 12:49 PM
    #761
    Vassily28

    Vassily28 Well-Known Member

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    Just curious to know why and have an explanation when poeple doesn't believe about the product or are worried about wear.
     
  2. Mar 11, 2015 at 1:02 PM
    #762
    TheNatural

    TheNatural Well-Known Member

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    Caved in and ordered one. a 5% increase in mpg will save $3000 over my expected lifetime of the truck.. and if it results in accelerated engine wear I get to do the 5.7L V8 swap sooner. win-win.:burnrubber:
     
  3. Mar 11, 2015 at 1:23 PM
    #763
    Revelations

    Revelations Well-Known Member

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    Wear is really subjective to the personal vehicle. The person who prolongs oil changes will have excessive wear compared to the enthusiast that performs oil changes every 2k miles. Then the person who neglects their vehicle will complain that their motor had to be rebuilt every 100k.

    If you take care of your ride, it will take care of you. Toyota builds pretty stout motors for all their cars, but if you abuse your car/truck, no amount of engineering is going to save it.

    This particular device may actually increase the longevity of the motor. Consider that unburnt fuel can create carbon build up over time, diminishing the efficiency. So far, we have seen many reports of people getting better mpg. If less fuel is being used, then there is less fuel in the cylinders to remain unburned.

    Now, consider worse case scenario: the eco-block actually causes makes the computer see too much or too little air. Too much air and it injects extra fuel. Too little and it pulls fuel. Too much fuel isn't that big of a deal. You'll notice the engine bog somewhat. Too little and you run the risk of a lean condition. The lean condition would have to be a pretty large deviance. So much that the ECU couldn't compensate for it and retard timing to reduce knock. In both cases, you would notice right away the problem. You could remove the eco-block to see if that makes any noticeable changes. There's really no excessive wear since you would have caught it right away. ECU's have a +/- % fuel trims and to get outside of the range would require something pretty drastic, like the MAF itself failing.

    Since the eco-block doesn't have any moving parts and doesn't have any electrical connectivity to your ecu, your MAF will have failed regardless of the eco-block.

    Just my 2 pesos.
     
  4. Mar 11, 2015 at 1:33 PM
    #764
    T Fades

    T Fades Well-Known Member

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    Satoshi, debadged, rear view mirror bracket, tail gate hose clamps, trimmed mud flaps.
    I agree that the S/C would cause even more wear on the engine. I wasn't arguing that fact, but as you stated, you are guessing as to how much greater the S/C wear would be over this.


    Just because a part doesn't move, doesn't mean it is not causing premature wear on the engine. These engines are built to last based on the stock configuration it is engineerred and built as. This product will cause the engine to run lean, which may create enough heat in the block to cause premature valve problems.

    Until there are vehicles that have traveled 200k miles with one, we will not know the long term issues.
     
  5. Mar 11, 2015 at 1:41 PM
    #765
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Even with the winky-moti, a serious response. Damn you Internet, can't you ever be clear??

    :D
     
  6. Mar 11, 2015 at 1:46 PM
    #766
    T Fades

    T Fades Well-Known Member

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    Satoshi, debadged, rear view mirror bracket, tail gate hose clamps, trimmed mud flaps.
    I'm pretty confident Toyota tested all configurations of where the MAF sensor is placed in order to maximize MPGs. There was a reason they chose the stock configuration.

    I'm not saying this product does not do good things in the short run, I am saying (as a person who typically owns vehicles for 2-300k miles), these improvements may have a long term affect that can only be realized with longevity. Of course I do not know that it does, just me being leary of performance upgrades with respect to long term reliability.
     
  7. Mar 11, 2015 at 1:48 PM
    #767
    samiam

    samiam Always here, never there

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    How would you know that the Eco Block caused the problem with longevity?
     
  8. Mar 11, 2015 at 1:49 PM
    #768
    T Fades

    T Fades Well-Known Member

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    Satoshi, debadged, rear view mirror bracket, tail gate hose clamps, trimmed mud flaps.
    edited my above post...
     
  9. Mar 11, 2015 at 2:43 PM
    #769
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    Is this available for a 1999 2.7L?
     
  10. Mar 11, 2015 at 2:56 PM
    #770
    Gabassman

    Gabassman Drive it like a 4WD

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    I'm not going to be able to give an accurate reading if it helped with millage or not. I installed the Eco block at 3/4 a tank and installed bigger tires at 1/2. But I can say I didn't feel much if any power loss with adding bigger tires.
     
  11. Mar 11, 2015 at 3:30 PM
    #771
    Quirt

    Quirt Mad Scientist

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    Not currently, but it is on our to do list.
     
  12. Mar 11, 2015 at 5:00 PM
    #772
    elnip

    elnip Well-Known Member

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    Any update to the Q3 code?
     
  13. Mar 11, 2015 at 5:07 PM
    #773
    Quirt

    Quirt Mad Scientist

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    I just sent it to you.
     
  14. Mar 11, 2015 at 5:21 PM
    #774
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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  15. Mar 11, 2015 at 6:13 PM
    #775
    Quirt

    Quirt Mad Scientist

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    Dyno fail today :(

    The truck was an automatic that cannot be locked in high gear so the dyno runs would be useless from down then up shifting during the test, sorry guys.
     
  16. Mar 11, 2015 at 6:15 PM
    #776
    loco

    loco Who wants to ride my Brack Burrito???

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    Well its a land Cruiser with a diesel so I've got that going for me.
    Shit I got a 6 speed. If no Dyno on a MT by June I will be in SoCal wif my truck after Moab.
     
  17. Mar 11, 2015 at 6:23 PM
    #777
    WOODEX M.E.

    WOODEX M.E. Well-Known Member

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    Don't see how this is a problem. Plenty of automatic tacomas on here with dyno runs. You just get the 3,000 rpm and up .
     
  18. Mar 11, 2015 at 7:28 PM
    #778
    Quirt

    Quirt Mad Scientist

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    Thanks for that :)

    I am pretty anal about how we run our dyno so we get the most accurate results as possible.
     
  19. Mar 11, 2015 at 8:33 PM
    #779
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Yup. All autos must start from 3k. Trust me when I say that so many member will complain that it isn't good enough because the rpm range that they spend most of their time driving in isn't shown, and thus the data is useless, to them.

    Been through that many times here, myself. And so everyone is clear, you don't drive at 600 RPMs, and you don't start a chassis dyno at 600 RPMs. Let's be realistic. That makes me chuckle. SALTS.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
  20. Mar 11, 2015 at 8:36 PM
    #780
    Yota64

    Yota64 Professional Threadjacker

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    So what can I do if I want to know the gains in the 1800-2200 RPM range since that is where 90% of my driving time is spent?
     

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