3.4L supercharger

Yeah that's a steep asking price. I get it, they're a very rare find these days. But honestly I don't think they're worth that much money

 

Okay…..I’m definitely going to try MAF load fuel maps. In my EFI uneducated opinion, that makes sense. And falls right in line with how I was told to tune water/meth injection by ProMeth. Ive been deep in thought about his issue for a loooong time and can’t believe I’ve never heard of this.

I have the tune dialed in right now for acceleration from gear 1+ but cruising and then rolling onto the throttle is
wacky, unless of course I punch it, then it’s solid, most of the time….Which was the same issue I’ve had with other piggy tuning methods once you start going beyond the base tune on the 7th. Which creates its own issues IMO.


I also want to add another variable people aren’t considering to the list. Toyotas reputation for supposedly using dirty sensor signals and aging/quality of all wire harnesses.

I’m pretty familiar with dealing with the shitty sensor readings on my own truck. I once mentioned people trying a new crank sensor after feeling like having some success doing it myself. But even SNP needed some guys here to swap in new sensors due to noise/age.

I’m pretty confident that these little 12v resistance/age issues play a fairly big contributor to some of this. It’s probable that some of the engine wiring harnesses used came from manufacturers using low grade materials amd/or cutting corners on wire quality/size and some guys got the good high quality shit from another supplier.

Lots of tiny issues could be contributing. I’m also suspicious that Toyota was using some weird injection patterns under specific conditions furthering the confusion.

The biggest issue though is because we can’t actually data log what the ECU is “seeing”.

 

Adding this information for those that have ping issues that might solve your issues instead of the 7th injector or methanol,

works perfectly for me at 6000 feet on stock injectors with a 340 AEM fuel pump and rebuilt stock injectors no methanol needed for fuel now, just for summer heat above 80 degrees.

this FMU is a 3:1 rise rate and is active only in boost.

I have used the original TRD FMU for 20 years but it is inconsistent in its fuel pressure unlike this FMU.

This FMU is now available
From snpspeed.com

 

Finally found it- I can't open up the link found within the thread (work filter) but I'm 99% sure post #6's URL is the 1st gen S/C modified to have air/water intercooling.

 

Won't open for me either, but might also be a work block. Usually though I don't get that "NO REDIRECT" page, I get a different error message

post is from 2008 so I suspect it's probably a broken link, but I do remember what you're talking about....I saw an image of it on TW once - a grey gen 1 TRD supercharger with a DIY intercooler

 

Was it this? I think it was




found here

 

No, though honestly I think that one pictured would be more effective (less flow resistance, much more cooler capacity). The one I saw back in the day the guy took the gen 1 apart and did some machining to fit a trans cooler inside + tubing, tank, pump, external cooler etc, making it an air to water setup just like OEM Magnusson for later gens.

I tried internet archive and the URL but that was blocked as well.

 

I don't know if maybe having an internet archive account shows pictures, or they are lost to time, but here:

https://web.archive.org/web/20151015012826/http://home.comcast.net/~bsims34/ic.htm

You can at least read and imagine haha.

 

I was pondering a simple arduino or pico like board to make a controller for my electronic S/C bypass mod to keep the S/C bypass open under X RPM / Y TPS (the greddy EMU aux output could be used for this but I'd like a standalone module to give me EMS flexibility) but maybe simply )spring loading the bypass would give it a 'laggier'/less prone to boost in moderate load low RPM situations?

https://kennebell.net/products/accessories/external-spring-supercharger-bypass-valve/

"• EXTERNAL SPRING (BV-200ES) CAN DELAY CLOSING UNTIL 3-7PSI BOOST"

a rando spring hooked into the valve arm connection point and some point on the S/C could provide some good resistance.

I wonder how the lever fulcrum + rotation direction plays into this as well (does flow fight the closing or assist). Also what are the odds the internal spring already in the diaphragm has stiffer options/replacements (or simply some means of pre-loading like 3d printing a spacer). Mugnusson already stuffs a copper "resistor" inside the bypass valve plumbing to make the valve actuation less... 'twitchy'.


edit: interesting thread on another forum on another platform in regards to turning bypass valve springs- though about flutter and not onset:
https://www.lxforums.com/threads/supercharger-bypass-valve-flutter-surge.405668/?u=69558

Have to hand it to Magnuson, i don't think anyone has run into issues like in that thread when going to smaller pulleys.

 

I think I was just reading through that thread. I believe in the end it was the tune and swapping bypass valves didn’t do shit.

I feel pretty confident that if the torque converter would kick off quicker we have less of the issues with the low RPM thing.

Ive pondered coming up with a switch that would deactivate the torque converter based off of manifold pressure.

someone on 4runnerForum actually did this something like this with good results I think. I need to go back and take a look at it. It was a manual switch but I’d much rather have an analog map made to control where it can and can’t activate.

 

Updates from magnuson
The forthcoming TVS 1320 for the Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6 is not being introduced as a way to build more power than the MP62. The current generation system is a massive success, so much so that the casting tooling is nearly its end of production life. So the decision was made to create a new generation to switch to a more available and modern TVS rotating group. We are still aways from production on the new unit, but when it is released it will be making the same boost levels as the current unit. That is because that is what we feel this motor will safely handle over its usable life. Also, this will hopefully allow us to more easily keep the new unit CARB certified as well, but we will have to see on that. The 1320 is a larger rotating group so we will be slowing it down to keep boost where we want it compared to the MP62.

the next generation unit with the TVS 1320 does have the potential to go further both on boost and efficiency. But as you already acknowledged the engine needs to be able to support that added boost. The Eaton TVS technology is OEM tested and established for its durability and efficiency. We are excited that the 3.4L marketspace is still so vibrant.

Best regards,
Magnuson Superchargers
Customer Support

 

Still in the prep phase for my s/c install. I ran a dry compression test and leak down test. On compression Cylinders 1,5,2, and 6 all came up 210psi. Cylinder 3 was 190psi and 4 was 201psi.

On leak down my results were:

Cyl 1: Leaking to the crank case.
Cyl 3: Leaking to Cylinder 1
Cly 5: Leaking to crank case.
Cyl 2: Leaking to crank case.
Cyl 4: Leaking to Cylinder 2.
Cyl 6: Leaking to Cylinder 4.

Not great results, but better to know now than to find out after I start F/I.

 

Got the SC installed this week.
Drove the truck for about 25miles.
Instructions said to normally drive 500 miles so that the ecu can adapt to it.

So can't really tell the difference yet.
So far I haven't heard any pinging but my truck does make a lot of noise. Throttle response is a bit better. Haven't really driven through hills either

Shout-out to @1997tacomav6 for answering all my newbie questions!

 

You sure you had valves closed on the cylinders that were leaking into another. If you did and it's a true leak from head gasket. It would run like shit. Also your compression wouldn't be that high.

 

Time to go more boost. Anyone have a spare smaller then stock pulley for 2nd gen supercharger?

 

Reasonably sure. Found TDC while adding pressure to the tested cylinder. Once I could add pressure without holding the crank, I recorded the result and the leakage. I can re-run the tests to see. I was thinking about doing so anyway just to be sure.

 

Some of you might have seen, I had an issue with the manifold housing cracked when removing the egr blank plate bolts. I have a manifold coming from JBP this week.

Can anyone enlighten me here, will this be a pretty straightforward changeout? I am hoping I don’t have to drain and pull everything apart… it’s got a fresh rebuild 5000km ago, so I didnt see the need to go that far with it. I did buy all the needed gaskets and Orings just in case.

 

You didn’t want to just use a self tapping bolt and exhaust sealer for the cover and the bolt itself?
I had issues with one of those threads and just added exhaust sealer to it and works fine

 

I’m the kind of guy, that would worry all the time about it. For piece of mind I ordered that manifold…

That being said… I did find a longer bolt in my stash. Teflon taped it and threw it in. Ran it for a bit and I’m not seeing any leaks on my boost gauge. So maybe. Just maybe, I’ll hit it with some jb exhaust weld and cancel that order.. thanks! Haha

 

What exhaust systems are you guys running?
I'm looking for a cat back that's legal in ca