5vz turbo/header flanges

I'm going to have the waterjet cut some 5vz-fe flanges out of 0.500" mild steel soon. Anyone interested in a pair? Not sure on final price yet, probably around 40 each, plus shipping.

 

Very nice! In to see where this ends up. Keep us posted on the turbo build progression.

 

I'd be in on that

 

@Jon64l any chance you could provide the step file (or whatever)?

 

Unfortunately, I do not have the file.

 

Darn. Guess I'll have to make one with a flange gasket. If/when I do, I'll post it here

 

Here's a tentative model based on the "v2" 5VZ exhaust flange (01-04?), which appears to be thinner but more infill than "v1" (seemingly 95-00, maybe more). This is good because fabworks only has up to 0.25" 304 SS. Full disclosure I have not put this up to the engine block yet to validate clearance. I do not have access to a 'v2' manifold for tracing so the attached was from an ebay listing. It will at the very least cover the same area as the gasket..







Also I just noticed 'v2' actually even has iterations of itself - some with oval stress cuts, some with circular.

 

We have a drawing and are getting some cut at our local place out of 3/8 (min thickness IMO) 304, do you need a set? 1/4 is too thin, 1/2 is what I'd prefer but the price changes drastically if we go up that much

 

Ya, I'd like one if the price is comparable. Where'd you get the drawing?

Also Send cut send has it up to 1/2" but they can never read my .step correctly files for some reason... they're also like 30% more expensive than fabworks :/

 

Scanned an exhaust gasket and asked Nelson very kindly to draw it for me, then had him revise it against a flange I already had around for some strength and weld area improvements. Also for 2D cut stuff don't use step files, everyone wants a DXF. Also I didn't know you could TIG, thought you had a flux core wire feed machine.

 

If the site says I can upload step, I'm gonna assume it should be fine. It comes right out of Fusion so idk. Maybe they should ask for DXF specifically if "everyone" wants one
I just can't TIG aluminum. Probably would still MIG though, my tube cutting tools aren't straight enough

 

STEP has a history of including proprietary instructions from some software, big names like SolidWorks usually have all the parsing instructions for the various additional BS some software bundles in but not all of them do. DXF is the defacto standard for 2D paths. I can always convert it for you if it still gives you a fit, never encountered something SolidWorks turns its nose up at.

Well MIG should be interesting

 

I can prolly swap out my tank and do the flange itself TIG. Good practice anyway.... you were the one who scoffed at it being scratch start I think lol. Which really I agree sucks the life out of doing it.

 

Scratch start isn't fun just because you can't vary your power on the fly or start and stop quick which on small round stuff is kinda a drag... or a scratch lol. If you're gonna spend the money for stainless though might as well invest in a metal cold saw and TIG it, you'll reap the benefits of the stainless cost that way at least.

 

I actually have one that I used the last time, but it still requires so much cleanup that I end up with poor butt joints. Have a stationary band saw too, but those take a while to get going without using an angle grinder to start the cut (which always introduces a bevel)

Maybe they'll handle stainless a bit differently though..

 

We cut with the cold rotary saw and then cleanup everything on the belt grinder, you want to bevel your parts for TIG welding anyway. If it's a lot of the same part I'll setup the horizontal band with a stop and use that (it has blade descent speed control though), cutting stainless with a bandsaw is fine but you best have your speeds and a misting setup to keep your blade from becoming Alabama spec.

 

lol @ Alabama spec

Belt sander I even bought as well for the job but it just seems like I generate more heat than do meaningful work with it. I'll sit there for minutes per slice. Idk, maybe that's normal, just seems like so much extra time and effort just to have fancier welds, especially once you consider the pieces you have to recut for being off a few degrees or whatnot

 

I mean yeah, it's like paint work... your prep is your paint. Higher power belt grinder and coarse grit, you can bevel deep and fast. It's for the strength of the weld, you risk cracking otherwise and create additional stressors from where lack of fusion or undercut would be on a raised weld. The likelihood of full penetration is lesser without the bevel too. Why did you want to do stainless, it sounds like you're not really setup to do it to where the benefits outweigh the cost.

 

I'd recommend mild steel for the head flange. Decking SS flanges kills belts really quick. Makes the 1/2" more affordable too.
Dont forget to purge stainless.

 

We always do, don't want no crusties! We started welding on a purgeblock heatsink to avoid the need for decking too.