A/C noise

@CurtB, The gauges at that time were reading at idle RPM with the engine cold, the temp reading while moving. Temp gauge would actually move from 39 to 42 while driving. Hang at 39 for five seconds then slowly move to 42 then drop back to 39 rather quickly. I couldn't really complain as this was very cold for the hot Florida temperatures.

Today I just replaced the condenser, it took me a while to finally figure it out. Here is the manifold reading now still at idle RPM, temp reading while moving at 45 MPH. I'm using the same cheap manifold gauges as I really don't want to introduce my Yellow Jacket Titan manifold and hoses to r134a and green slime.


Reason for condenser replacement:
A couple years ago I introduced some "Super Synthetic AC Artic Pro" or whatever it was called after a un-intended leak occurred. AC was super cold after but this shit introduced a whine to the compressor. I had to add some oil to get rid of the whine but it took a while to realize that it had to be the condenser being clogged with the super synthetic AC Pro green snot. Possibly the premium PAG 46 DEC oil I used helped to somewhat clear the passages. The whine very slowly came back after about a year. Per what research I've done a parallel flow condenser which is in our trucks cannot be flushed completely due to the tiny passages. Also the drier is built in and not replaceable. At least on the original 2006 one I took out.
The clogged condenser and some excess oil evidently also put a heavy drag on the compressor when the AC was on. The drag was such that with the AC on the transmission would stay in fourth gear up to just above 40 MPH before it would shift to fifth. Not really much to complain about around town but still noticeable from before.

New condenser and 21 ozs. of r134a equals no whine under acceleration or heavy drag on the engine and a more steady cold air output. 40-41 while moving per cheap analog gauge. Idle seems to be 42-44 now per below photo. limited test was done around a four mile block, ambient temperature at 90+.

Idle temp reading below...

 

Looks like it is working just fine, despite having 21 pounds of R134A. That AC Pro stuff is crap and more than likely there is still some in there, mixed in the oil. I hope it keeps working for you.

 

Of course I meant ounces, LOL. Should have posted before the job well done Budweiser's. At least it won't leak for now... LOL!

 

OP, just a heads up on the tensioner, you can't buy just the pully, you have to buy the whole unit, it's like $150 and a PITA to replace. What I did, and alot of others, was pull the pully, bring it to a local bearing shop and have them look up the part number of the bearing. They cost about $10-$15. Then just replace the bearing in the pully, reinstall.

Also, note, the so say replacement tensioners at auto zone, orielly, etc ARE NOT made to OEM spec. They are about 1/8" off. You will shred belts like crazy!

I posted bearing part numbers like a year ago, I'll try to dig up the post.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...your-pulley-is-bad-but-tensioner-good.521625/

 

Did you ever find the culprit? I have the same exact issue that you have! To the tee.

 

Thing is, how would you explain the sound ONLY being audible when the AC is ON and not when it's OFF? I have literally the same problem, I can't seem to pin point it.

My thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-when-ac-on-during-idling-slow-speeds.772807/

 

My truck was still under warranty, so I took it to dealership. They determined that it was the alternator and replaced it.

 

When engaged the compressor can load the belt drive system and make a failing bearing louder

Have you listened around with a stethoscope yet?

 

No, I haven't done that yet, but will likely get in there this afternoon after work.

Question though... if it's the extra load from the compressor needing to be powered when it comes on, wouldn't that be more of a grinding noise? ie. https://youtu.be/fHtLH_m9gN4?t=165

 

Update:

Had it in at the dealership while I was picking up OEM spark plugs, filter, etc. and had a tech check out the issue. He was adamant that the whining sound is caused by a bearing in the compressor, said that it may take quite a while for it to seize up and that I have two choices... let it run it's course and replace it then it dies, or replace it now if I'm annoyed by the sound.

I was quoted $1595.00 CDN for a remanufactured compressor /w labor + Tax & Supplies. Figure I can likely get it done for about a $1000 at a local mechanic. Is it worth it to shop around or bite down and take it up the beeeeeeeeeeeep from the dealership?