Another electrical glitch... WTF!?!

I tried a search... No luck or definitive answer... I figured I would ask the experts...

I was cleaning out the interior of my 09 Double Cab 4X4 (no TRD) today and noticed that the rear driver side window would not roll up or down when using the switch on that door. All other windows work properly with both their own door switches and the driver's switches.

It is not the window lock button.

The problem window WILL rollup and down when using the switch on the driver's door. Cant be the motor...

I popped out the window switches from both rear doors to check if it was a problem with the switch. I swapped them and both swithces work on the other door. Niether would work on the problem side door. Not the switch...

Any guess on the problem? Easy fix? Wouldnt be a fuse would it?

How much might this cost me to get repaired? I know it is a minor problem but it is annoying.

I believe that I am just out of warranty, I will have to double check. I bought it certified used. I t has 38K+ mi on it.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

May be a disconnected wire on the motor, or a defective motor. If the switches work on the other side, that's the only thing left, unless there is a separate fuse for the window actuators.

 

check the wiring for the problem side window. wont take much to pull that door panel off and check on it. if its ceritified used, should have a 100k mile bumper to bumper on it... at least mine does.

 

The problem is with your drivers door master switch. The other 3 window switches get their power and ground through that switch. So the answer is simple. Replace your master window switch. Seen it happen hundreds of times on many different types of cars/trucks.

 

There is a separate fuse for each individual window switch.

 

here's the wiring diagram all on one page. Hopefully helps a little.

 

If the switch on that door works on the other door, and that window can be rolled down from the driver master switch, First check would be the pig tail to the switch on the problem door. Are the connections clean? Are all the wires intact? If they look good then check fuses and relays to that door to see if they are good and clean. Then if all those check out and window switch still doesn't operate, then you are going to have to pull the door panel. Plenty of how too's on you tube. Check the wiring from switch pig tail to where ever it goes to to be sure everything is intact. If you can get a volt meter handy then you can see if the switch is getting power. Just play around a little and you can figure it out. Good luck

 

There is a separate fuse for each switch, but if the fuse was the problem then the window wouldn't roll down from the master switch as stated in the OP.

I still think his master window switch is the problem.

 

Yes, it would.

The master switch provides the ground for the door and master actuation, but the second fuse provides power ONLY for the individual door switches.

Look at the diagram posted above... the driver's switch will work with the other 3 fuses removed, but the other 3 door switches won't work.

The way the thing is wired, it HAS to be between the individual fuse and the connector on the switch for that door. A problem with the master switch would result in the master switch not working, likewise, if the window lock switch were stuck open, the master switch would not work.

 

Thank you all for the good advice! I will check out the fuses when I get some daylight here. Hopefully it is that simple. Those diagrams are great! I will keep you posted.

 

I had corrosion on the contacts of both rear door switches. It is always the rear windows on the double cabs not working from what I found when searching.

Cleaned them up and never had a problem again. Had to use cleaner and rough up the contacts of connector and switch.

Some also mentioned the window lock button on the master switch gets stuck open/closed and needs to be worked more often since corrosion builds in the internal switch contacts.

Mine acted up on me right as I got to the bar for some food with my buddies. Ended up having to drop them off and go get my other vehicle due to worries someone would steal my work tools.

 

It could still be the master switch. The ground for the rear door switch goes through the master switch. But the positive power for the rear mounted switch is completely separate and has it's own fuse before it gets to the rear switch.

It seems unlikely that the "at rest" ground contacts in the master switch are bad. There is no load on them when the contacts initially "make", so there shouldn't be any arcing to wear them out. Although I did have a similar issue on a Dodge that turned out to be the master switch. In that case, the window wouldn't roll up from the master switch either.

 

Trace the diagram.

Master switch and the individual door switches all have their own power source, and yes, all of the grounds go through the master switch... but it's the same ground for all switches. The window lock switch operates by opening this ground.

If the master switch has a problem with it's ground, none of the windows will work, or if it's in the area of the window lock switch, only the driver's window will work.

There are only 2 wires going from the master to the door. One is used as the hot by the master and the other is used by the ground by the master. When using the local door switch, either wire may be used as the ground, depending on whether you're going up or down. Both wires have a ground applied to them by the master when the switch is at rest.

Since the window goes both up and down from the master, we know that both wires from the master all the way to the motors are good.
The switch works in another door, so the switch is good.

It has to be something between the connector and the fuse for that door, because that is the only wire that is not used by the driver's master.

 

Yeah, you're right. Stared at the diagram some more and I can see it now . This is going to end up being a popped fuse.

 

You guys nailed it! I should have checked the fuse box before posting. Live and learn...

The fuse was missing. Weird... I am not sure where it went or how it fell out. I put a new one in and its tight. It worked!

I would have figured the window would not have worked at all if that fuse was blown. Then again, I am no mechanic!

Thanks again for taking some time to help me out.

 

LOL. Glad it's fixed. I never would have guessed there was a separate fuse either.

 

Strange indeed, but nice to know that if a fuse blows or goes bad and the window is down, you have a chance of getting it rolled back up as long as it's not the motor that blew the fuse.

 

Glad it was that simple. That's why I posted the diagram too, made it easier to figure out.