Broken axle, need help

Hey guys, I broke a rear axle yesterday and I'm looking for options to fix it as quickly as possible cause it's my daily and I have a trip planned at the end of the week. The axle is a non-locking without ABS. I think the quickest option is to go to a bone yard and pull an axle and swap it out and keep on rolling. My question is about compatibility. Are the backing plates the same for all 1st gens? Does ABS or an E-locker mean it won't fit my truck? Does anyone have a better/faster/cheaper solution?

TIA

 

Figure out what your gear ratio is, and then from there go to a junk yard and either verify in the door from the vin. Or ideally pull 3rd and count teeth

 

I should've been more specific. The 3rd is fine and I've regeared. All I need is the axle shaft and backing plate because I don't have time to press a new shaft onto mine. I just need to know if anyone can answer if an ABS/E-locker shaft will work on a non-ABS/non-E-locker housing, and also if there are any differences in the backing plate as far as where the brake line and E-brake make their connections.

 

No, an E-locker third member will not bolt up to a non E-locker housing. You will have to get an axle that supports the E-locker third member from a reputable junkyard.

Your E-brake and hard lines should bolt up to any 1st gen axles.

Edit: There is no pressing needed. Just slide your old shaft out and and slide it into the new axle. Buy new U-bolts when you swap axles and torque them to I think 90 foot pounds.

Edit 2: I read your post wrong. Shafts are not compatible. The ABS shaft will not fit a non-ABS axle.

 

The shafts are different spline count between E-locker and open diffs, so not compatible there. The placement of the axle seal is different between ABS and non-ABS axles, so not directly compatible there.

Measure the distance from the backing plate to the center of the retainer ring on your broken axle before you go to the junkyard. If you do pull an ABS axle, it will have two retainers with a tone ring in between. You’ll have to cut off the inner retainer and the tone ring, but if the outer retainer is in the same location as your old axle it will work (again, non e-locker only).

 

Buy new U-bolts when you swap axles and torque them to I think 90 foot pounds.

why do you need new u-bolts if you are only replacing 1 axle shaft?

 

Thanks for the responses everyone. The local bone yards either have nothing or they're all made of $olid gold!

Looks like I'll be buying new parts.

 

I miss read the post. I thought he needed a new axle. My second edit explains that.

 

Cool, thanks.