bushing movement

What is this piece called? I might have known at one point but have forgotten. I'm trying to track down a vibration. Would this cause a vibration under certain activity or does it seem ok? It can't be moved by hand and isn't rattling while it's idling. It can be moved by a little crowbar pressure.

When I had the front wheels in the air there was no vibration, but there is a little bit sometimes at idle and sometimes at various speeds. I've had two shops look at it recently and say it's fine.

 

That bushing is perished.
Could buy entire strut rod ($80)
48660-35011
Or find a bushing and press in with the rod removed
Fixed points both ends so alignment not ness.

for vibrations look at tire balancing and tire rotation initially

 

Are you saying that the front wheel vibrates while you had the truck in the air and idling?

Vibration can be caused by bad engine mounts. (If you're saying you have vibrations while idling and NOT moving???)

Or could be bad wheel balancing.
Or wheel bearings going bad.
Or bad ball joints.

But from your description of your problem it's really hard to tell.

But if all you're asking is if the movement in the bushing is normal?? (I think you know the answer is NO!) You can see the bushing is failing.

 

Good to hear confirmation that the strut rod bushings are a problem. I know there's something loose, and I've checked stuff and had two shops check stuff with only partial success. Long story.

The inner end of each strut rod, where the bushing is, attaches to the frame with a horizontally placed 19mm nut and bolt which are both accessible if I remove the sway bar. Is the nut normally welded on to parts like this so I can just take an impact to the bolt?

The outer end of the strut rod attaches to the lower control arm with a vertical bolt. If I undo that, is the suspension going to pull out of place from pressure and necessitate more disassembly, or should it stay put? I'll have the front end jacked.

I might see about finally getting an impact wrench to do this if it's easy enough.

 

Here are FSM instructions for removing the lower control arm and coil spring, which includes removing the strut bar. The coil spring or anything isn't going to get me as I disconnect the strut bar from the lower control arm? I'm leery of messing around anywhere near the coil spring but I think as long as I'm just removing the stabilizer bar and strut bar I should be safe?

If this is feasible I'm getting ready to order new Prothane bushings, 250 ftlb torque wrench, impact wrench, and impact sockets.

 

Most economical way is just replace those two bushings...

FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM STRUT ROD BUSHING FOR 1995-1999 TOYOTA TACOMA 2WD PAIR | eBay


Most likely the sway and control arm bushings will be showing their age.....
replacing all these would give back that new truck feel...


I would go checking a butt load of stuff....like driveline universals....

 

I saw those ebay bushings but can't tell if they are rubber or polyurethane. It's a no-name part so who knows. I'd prefer rubber. I was going to get the Prothane which are cheaper but obviously polyurethane and ride different.

Lots of other stuff has been identified as bad and replaced. Ball joints, U joints, center support bearing, sway bar bushings, engine mounts, belts, pulleys... There's only a few things it could be at this point.

If I can manage to undo the inner end of the strut rods and pry them down and blast out the bushings without having to undo anything else, that would be amazing.

 

They dont have the poly ones for those mini torsion bars...
.....or the lower control arms...

unless you measured and fabricated your own....

All other bushings on mine are the prothane....where possible...

that one is just gonna have to be replaced every ten years or so......

that one bushing is gonna to play hell on all the others....if its wore out....


Unfortunately that bushing gets the most road crap....at least up front....
....same area as the steering shaft universal/pump on the old 22r trucks.....





For 5 lugs....... 'This is the way'

 

If you've had all the rest apart recently....it should come apart fairly easy.....

extra bottle jack might be useful.....

 

Most toyota owners think their initial investment is all thats ever needed...

and then let em rot......

 

JustA
You can remove any suspension bolt just as long as bolt it fixed(no adjustment allowed) then alignment no needed

Man, I’m looking at those diagrams u posted……I might be wrong but I’m thinking the only ‘adjustable’ point would be tie rod for +\- toe for 5 lugs

I’m thinking if 6 lug with shock/spring assembly, there is an eccentric(adjustable) bolt on lwr control arm


so u should be good

 

6lugs use a double wishbone front....and dont need that torsion bar......

5lugs can only adjust camber and toe......no caster......

 

STaco
Knew I was wrong
Where can/do you adjust camber?
Inner control arms?
Thanx

 

You do that by adjusting 36, 37, 38 on both front and back of LC Arms in your diagram...

or by shim plates on the upper control arms where they mount on inner fender....for the 5luggers.......

 

I placed orders for the ebay bushings and the tools I need. So please no conflicting suggestions until I give that a shot! lol

 

I posted the details in a new thread, but I fixed the vibration issue! As @O'Silver_Taco and @ControlCar suggested, I think it was partly the strut rod bushings rotting out. The control arm bushings are probably not in perfect shape either, but at the moment things seem pretty good. I think the stiff shocks were causing wear to these and other parts.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fyi-suspension-problems-fixed.817800/

 

I actually like the stiffness of the KYB's...

these struts are kinda small/under powered for a pickup....

some of the cheap auto stores ones can be bouncy...

 

KYB all day over other brands at the local auto parts store

 

I did replace with the softer KYB Excel-G. KYB has a few models for this truck.

 

I know this is an old thread, but on these 5 lugs you can technically adjust caster with shims on the upper control arm. Thicker shim on front or back bolt for pos/neg caster, had it done today and got the truck completely dialed, caster, camber, and toe.