Electrical advice needed!

And a big difference between a winch, and a stack of amplifiers and offroad lights, which are continuous service.

 

A winch and lights: yes Amps...not so much. Never really been that into sound

 

I've been leaning towards that for a while. I just need to get together a list of things to get for it

 

All right.

 

WAY past that.

Btw..LF240s..HUGE. Idk how the hell your gonna fit 4 of them up front..haha

6 LF160s is also..over kill. and gonna be hard to fit 6 up on the roof as well.

I have 4 HIDs on the roof a 2 LF240s on the bumper with fogs. Plus cutom Side Mirror lights(LEDs), LED side bars, LED bed lights, LED rear side fills and LED rear lights. And rock lights.

Dropped my stock alternator and one battery over a volt with them all on.

New 140amp alternator and second battery later..all good.


also..no offense..but if your not electrical savy..you should really reconsider doing that many lights. It takes a long time to make custom wiring harnesses correctly. If you can't solder or setup a wiring diagram id just get one or two pairs and call it a day. I spent a LONG time wiring all mine up. Plus cutsom relay box and switch panel ect..

 

400+ bucks

 

Do it right or don't do it

 

i Built my own custom relay box from a Bussman box. Cost WAY less. And i built it

Yea..too much money for me..haha



OP: here is my setup





Technology is your friend. Use HIDs for long distance lights. They draw less power and are brighter then halogens.

LEDs for fill lights. Draw even less power but can't compete with a big lens light...yet. Give them another few years.

 

I disagree. Offroad LEDS are ridiculously over priced. I can get some hella 500s and HID them and it'll be way way cheaper.

I do believe LEDs will catch up in performance and cost. But now..no way. To get the same output of my HID Hellas I'd have t get a 40"+ LED bar..very expensive. Paid like 150 for my 4 Hellas already HIDed..

 

He didn't say now. He just said it looks like it's close. haha.

 

OP, this is serious stuff and you need to to learn electrical theory and application, a lot of advice has been given and it's mostly all great, but the truth is it's possible to burn down your truck if you fuck this up. I have about a 1000 watts of lighting on my rig, a blue sea fuse block, my stock 140 amp alternator and it's taken huge chunks of time to build, all the wiring is custom, nothing is stock out of the box, i needed to know what size wire can handle what amp draw for what lengths of wire run and then over-engineer everything just to be safe.

 

Put a 370amp mechman alternator on the beast.

 

All I can really say is thank you to everyone! And to blackdawg - the 240s would go on the roof, 4x 170s would go on the bumper, and 2x 170s would go on the windshield.
But now I've read all this...I don't think this is going to happen anytime soon

 

Okay..

240s on the roof is a very very bad idea man.

Just my 4 6" lights KILLED my mpgs and power in the hwy. I mean..destroyed haha so much that after I rolled the truck, I made my next roof rack have lights that fold down.

9" lights up there would be horrible.

Just a thought..but I would not arise 240s on the roof..

Here is a comparison



The Hellas are n my roof now.

The 240s would cause sooooooooooo much drag. And are so big that even if they folded back they would stick up super high.

Here is folding rack

http://youtu.be/_32ToS7eQR8

 

What if they were mounted partially over the windshield? I've had an idea in mind to have a rack fabbed up that would put the base at the bottom of the tint strip on the windshield

 

Gotta think of the surface area your still presenting.

Plus even if you made a mount that as even with the roof the bottom of the light would probably be hat low anyways haha

I still wouldn't put 249s on the roof.

 

But would be as disruptive to the airflow?
And as far as the annoyances go, toyota got me used to that with their brilliant placement of the rearview mirror. And the noise...well I don't know about that one. Audio mats on the roof?

True. But the way i was thinking was to just have them sit at that level. But you're definitely right in saying that they'd probably be sitting that low anyway

 

Trust me man. 240s on the roof is a bad idea..

 

All right.

 

Run an LED light bar and (2) 8" spots. You and your alternator will be happy. This thread has me thinking hard.........I have four KC 8000 @ 130 watts each and a new Punch 400W amp.......Never had a problem with only the lights, but between lights and amp I bet I will! The lights and stereo will likely draw around 60-65 amps with the stereo at modest gain. Good thing I have the lights on two switches. I can run two or four. I run each pair of lights (two floods and two spots) on 12ga. wiring with 20amp fuses and so far no blown fuses or serious heating of the wiring.