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Intermitten Alternator Failure

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TRDdan421, May 12, 2019.

  1. May 12, 2019 at 4:10 PM
    #1
    TRDdan421

    TRDdan421 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 12, 2019
    Member:
    #293095
    Messages:
    5
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    Male
    Vehicle:
    2003 Toyota Tacoma 3.4 TRD
    Plug and play LED. bought car with a trailer break system. everything else is stock
    2003 Tacoma 3.4 TRD 220k miles. Mods: trailer breaks (did not install but bought it with them) led plug and play headlights.

    Brief history: Battery(1) 3 months ago died. checked battery connections, ground wire loose. next three months cheepo battery terminals getting loose, battery light intermittenly going off and on (driving 70 miles a day). load tested battery and alternator sever times at orielies both check out fine. coming home from work battery died, had to push start it, went 2 miles then died again. got a jump was able to drive 40 miles home. pulled battery and got it tested and it was bad. battery #1 was 3 months old under warranty. drove with battery #2 for 20 minutes with 100% charge came home and it was at 70% with a battery light on. got new terminals again upgraded the connections to the terminals and put a thicker ground from battery to fender.

    So obviously why not go out and get another denso alternator? the previous one is original and i have 200,000+ miles on it but hear about people getting 300,000 on theirs putting new brushes in ect. well just testing the alternator today with a multi meter and with the engine off im getting 12.43v and 14.25v with the truck on at 2,000rmp's. this was true when testing volts with the positive probe from the battery and from the B post on the alternator while putting the negative probe to the negative terminal, engine block, and other grounding locations.

    This is telling me that my alternator works but not all the time. 2nd test we had 12volts with the truck off, turned it on its went to 14.28 but at some random time it dropped to 11.28v and had a light come on. (which is what im assuming happens when driving) gave it some time and now its totally fine.

    I can totally afford to go out and buy a new alternator and I easily install a new alternator but we are all on Toyota World to learn how things work and to save some money. I dont know much about electrical issues but I would like some stories or pointers on what would cause inttermitten alternator problems. best case senario is that I need new brushes on my alternator worst case my ECU is crap. First time posing to T.W. got tired of searching through unrelated threads.

    BTW if this hasn't been solved yet Im getting a lot of my troubleshooting help from this very informative video so if your just as lost as I am check it out and maybe you can get to my level of understanding. thanks for any help I appreciate it! ROCK ON!
    https://youtu.be/1bK0De9XOP0
     
  2. May 12, 2019 at 5:35 PM
    #2
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

    Joined:
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    Denver
    Vehicle:
    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    You can buy the brushes that come in the plastic housing for $20 or less from the dealership.
    Just replaced mine two days ago.
    That should fix your problem,

    Do it before they short out the alternator and then you will have to replace the complete alternator, if it’s a Toyota alternator, that’s what you want
     
  3. May 12, 2019 at 7:44 PM
    #3
    TRDdan421

    TRDdan421 [OP] Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    2003 Toyota Tacoma 3.4 TRD
    Plug and play LED. bought car with a trailer break system. everything else is stock
    I'm thinking putting new brushes would be a good idea. There is a bunch of oil spilled in the alternator. I couldn't get a good picture of it too but the positive connector had some gunk in it but again the voltage test was good before I took it apart. Drove it 15 minutes with the light off untill it turned on. I know that temperature is important too. What would you say is a sign of the alternator shorting out? Going to pick up new brushes tomorrow. Thanks for the quick reply btw

    IMG_20190512_193331508.jpg
    IMG_20190512_193349606_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20190512_193516382_HDR.jpg
     
  4. May 12, 2019 at 7:45 PM
    #4
    TRDdan421

    TRDdan421 [OP] Member

    Joined:
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    Plug and play LED. bought car with a trailer break system. everything else is stock
    ^^^ this is with the cover off

    IMG_20190512_193315647_HDR.jpg
     
  5. May 12, 2019 at 7:58 PM
    #5
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

    Joined:
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    Messages:
    10,385
    Gender:
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    First Name:
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    Denver
    Vehicle:
    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    Why is this alternator oil soaked?

    I’m thinking that’s not good for an electrical path of current and that might be your problem
     
  6. May 12, 2019 at 9:39 PM
    #6
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    while it is possible to disassemble and do component testing of the alterntor the issue is where are you going to get the components? The intermitant operation of the alternator to me points to a alternator heat related failure, that means diode to me.
     
  7. May 12, 2019 at 11:59 PM
    #7
    TRDdan421

    TRDdan421 [OP] Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2003 Toyota Tacoma 3.4 TRD
    Plug and play LED. bought car with a trailer break system. everything else is stock
    I think the oil is from a bad oil cap, going to get a new one....topic for another thread. but think your right on the over heating issue. the brushes definitely are toast but the commutator (the part that the brushes contact to) is kinda warn out + reads .8 ohms instead of 2.7 ohms like stated in the video. at this point I'm getting a rebuilt denso ordered since my truck has been sitting for 2 weeks. If I do go for cleaning the alternator I have found rebuild kits. idk doing the brushes sounded really easy but if the continuity test of the rest of the components are bad is it worth it to rebuild or just bite the bullet and get something that I know will work. hopefully this helps anyone reading this.
     
    1997tacomav6 likes this.

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