Let's talk batteries

Odyssey requires 13.6v for float charge and 14.7v for full charging.

Read the technical manuals

 

I’m not a battery expert (yet?).....what’s the difference between a Float Charge and a Full Charge?

 

https://www.odysseybatteries.com/docs/us-ody-tm.pdf

From reading this, i gather the following. Absorption Phase - aka full charging - is 14.7 volts until the battery has reached 8 hours of charging or the battery is around 80%. Then continuous float charge is required at 13.6v to get the battery to full.

I'm not at all an expert either - just trying to do all the digging i can.

 

Hey thanks, that’s helpful

Ive got a lot of reading to do...

 

np - I seem to find there is no perfect answer for taking care of batteries in an optimal way. I'm going to throw 14.6-14.7v at it with the help of VF Tune and see how long they'll go.

When one of my big boys goes tits up, i'll likely do a lead acid start battery and some dc-dc charger to a deep-cycle to avoid the BS. Live and learn

 

After sitting all day at work mine read 12.9

I don't really use the deep cell capacity much, might winch occasionally without the engine running, run the radio for 8+ hours parked, run the lights while setting up/tearing down camp (or finishing up work). My main draw to agm was that it's spill proof, maintenance free and hold up to vibration better. I think I'm just going to keep my current set up and see how long it lasts. It's a group size 65.

 

I got it cus my originally battery would die if I didn't use the truck every day lol. This seemed like a set it and forget it option, especially with all the damn lights I have, and the winch.

 

I'm wondering if someone can help with a question, I'm looking at the X2(Northstar) 27F & 24F from Batteries+ and I've read a lot about these AGM batteries on here and it looks like the alternator won't be able to ever fully recharge the 27F, unless I use a separate charger/maintainer. So my question is, can the truck recharge the 24F? I'm still planning on getting something that can charge the battery or maintain that battery, but I would like it to at least get close to full. Thanks for any help!

 

you ever figure out the answer for this?

 

True, Optima used to be the top dog...been using them for many years. Mexican made Optima (I'm referring to Red Top) are hit and miss now. I had one replaced after 10 months...would not hold a charge. I still use Optima in two of the 5 vehicles (plus a Blue Top in the boat) but yes...hit and miss...oh, did I mention that a Hecho in Mexico red Top costs $260 in Alberta Canada!, some places selling them for $350...I know it didn't cost Johnson Controls that many pesos

 

I've got a 2018 SR5, so my alternator charges at the lower rate. My battery is still the original, so going on a little over 2 years now. I'm putting a winch in, and I have been looking at the X2 AGM. For the higher amps of the batter that I'll get I'm willing to pick up one of the NOCO Genius 10s to maintain the battery once a month. Not wanting to mess with OV Tune at this point.

$100 NOCO GENIUS10: 10A 6V/12V Smart Battery Charger – Automatic Maintainer, Trickle Charger & Desulfator with Overcharge Protection & Temperature Compensation – For Lead-Acid & Lithium Batteries

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS1...1602704414&sprefix=agm+battery,aps,244&sr=8-3

 

Anyone know? First cold day up here and I found out the fun way I need a new battery. Going to be heading to Battery Plus tomorrow and want to be sure the 24F can charge or if I should just get the 27F.

 

For future readers........... I have 90,000 miles and five years, on a Northstar 27f. It performs like new, in my 2015. It also handles 2 amps, many lights, and anything else I need 12v for, including chain sharpeners, air compressors, etc.

If and when It needs replaced, it will be a 27f Northstar agm, without a second thought!!!

 

Just installed

 

Planning to get the ovtune update to the alternator to accommodate charging for my 3rd gen

 

Im running dual agm batteries on my 3rd gen with a red arc dc to dc charger. 24f for the starting battery and 35 for the house battery. Both are diehard agm batteries. I use a noco on board 12v charger to keep them topped off a couple times a month. So far so good.

Heres a pic of the house battery. I dont have any of the starting battery right now.

 

I've been trying to read up on all of this and maybe I understand. A dc-to-dc charger isolates the house batt from the ICU which sees it as an added-on device needing power. The dc-to-dc charger then steps up the charging voltage to the house batt's needed 14.4v. Doing this uses some of the start batt's voltage, which doesn't get enough charging voltage for an agm from the alternator anyhow. And that's why you use the Noco to top off the start batt. Is this correct?

So, a couple of questions...

1. Since the stock charging voltage is not enough to fully charge an agm, does operating an agm less than fully charged most of the time and only fully charging it one or two times a month hurt it in any way? I understand they are designed to operate going from 100% to ~30% to 100% to ~30%, etc. But what if they go from 85-90% tops to ~30% etc for the most part and only occasionally getting to 100%?

2. If operating as in #1 is the norm, do short daily drives hurt an agm more than lead acid batts or not? I drive about 8 miles each way to work, but what if I only drove 2 or 3 or so miles each way with an agm?

 

AGM and Flooded batteries are both Lead Acid. Same charging profile.

There both are "deep cycle" vs. "starting batteries." Internal construction is different. The deep cycle is the house battery, so charge it and let it run your fridge for 24 hours. They like to be charged and discharged slowly. "Starter" battery is to allow high current for a short period. 300 Amp draw to spin that starter, then charged back as you drive.

Since an AGM uses a fiberglass matt to hold the acid and not plates suspended in acid, it should be better for off-roading and harsh vibration.

Badly abused deep cycle batteries are only good for 100 cycles, lightly used is good for 3000 cycles.

My old truck (1993 Dodge Dakota, purchased new and gutted as a test mule). The 25th battery was for a 12V system; the rest for a 244V motor.

 

I put an AC/Delco battery in around Thanksgiving Day and it set me back approx. $85.00. Fit well. I would stay away from batteries plus for auto batteries.

 

Both batteries are lead-acid. Same charging profile. Same voltage. Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) just withstands vibration better than the old-style plate construction.

The 24F or 27F would both work fine. The larger battery can produce more current for cranking (not an issue) but allows bigger capacity.

With either battery you don't want to fully deplete them, just kills their life. That larger one means longer winch time without killing battery life.

https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odx-agm27-battery/
https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odx-agm24-battery/

Compare those spec sheets to the Trojan battery:
https://www.trojanbattery.com/solar-agm-2/
https://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/SAGM_12_105_AGM_DS.pdf

Odyssey battery is fine, I just wish they had more details about voltage vs. state of charge and charge rates. Since they are all Lead Acid (flooded vs AGM have same charge profiles) but your Tacoma will handle the larger battery just fine.

If you use a Battelborn Lithium-Ion, different voltage different charging requirements. I'd keep the stock style battery & something like the Sterling 1230 DC to DC system to handle the different voltage/charging of those batteries.

What is your need for the second battery?

Winching?
House battery (running a cooler/fan/radio/lights)?

Different requirements.