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Need Help with Towing

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Dead Fred, Nov 30, 2015.

  1. Nov 30, 2015 at 10:09 AM
    #1
    Dead Fred

    Dead Fred [OP] Member

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    Hey guys so I'm possibly going to be towing a 1956 Ford F100. I have a 2013 DCLB prerunner 6cyl RWD. It has the factory tow package on it. The trailer weighs 2210lbs and the factory specs for the truck says its curb weight is 3240lbs. So total will be 5450lbs I will be towing it from Kingman, AZ to Yucaipa,CA aprox. 260 miles. Would the truck be able handle this load for this distance.
     
  2. Nov 30, 2015 at 10:27 AM
    #2
    HawkShot99

    HawkShot99 Well-Known Member

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    Your going to want trailer brakes for that. The truck is "prewired" for brakes, but you still need to add a brake controller for them to work.
     
  3. Nov 30, 2015 at 10:40 AM
    #3
    TacoJames

    TacoJames Member

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    Fog lights anytime w/key on Plasti dipped gas cover, grill, rear bumper and rims
    Will pull fine, its the stopping you need to be concerned about. Brake controller is a must. You might also look at tongue weight, Depending on how you load the trailer. Might need sway control on that trailer too. I pull a camper at around 5400 lbs, and although the tacoma isnt the most ideal, it pulls fine once the brake controller is adjusted properly.
     
  4. Nov 30, 2015 at 10:41 AM
    #4
    1buzzbait

    1buzzbait like that weed in yer manicured lawn

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    murrilin
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    all the above, and I wouldn't let the t/c lock-up if it is an automatic
     
  5. Nov 30, 2015 at 10:58 AM
    #5
    Dead Fred

    Dead Fred [OP] Member

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    I should have mentioned I was planning on using a uhual auto transport I those are equipped with surge brakes. Or should I look for a trailer with a hydraulic brake system?
     
  6. Nov 30, 2015 at 11:05 AM
    #6
    wsurunner

    wsurunner Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't tow that load with surge brakes, but maybe that's just me. Electric brakes with brake controller. Don't tow in OD - keep it in 4. Your back end will sag quite a bit so your truck's handling will suffer, but the least expensive option to remedy that is a couple hundred bucks and probably isn't worth it if this is the only time you'll be towing.

    Take your time, and keep a sharp eye on your fuel gauge as you'll probably experience single-digit MPG.
     
  7. Nov 30, 2015 at 4:36 PM
    #7
    906UP

    906UP Well-Known Member

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    Maybe it's just me but I wouldn't do it to my truck, not worth the extra wear & tear. Check into renting a U-haul truck to pull the trailer, sure it's extra $$ but it'd be worth it to me.
     
  8. Nov 30, 2015 at 5:03 PM
    #8
    3coma

    3coma my kid says my truck is "Boss"

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    I don't see why you can't, just give the cars ahead plenty of room, and let off when approaching intersections. My 1st gen had no problems towing my bass boat with surge brakes, and it wasn't much lighter.
     
  9. Nov 30, 2015 at 5:09 PM
    #9
    Capt Jrod

    Capt Jrod Well-Known Member

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    My boat has surge brakes and they work great. If you go electric brakes, tekonsha p3 is the way to go.
    Order up triple a, have someone tow you to the road, tell them you broke down and need a tow home. Problem solved lol!!! It ain't easy being a ninja.
     
  10. Nov 30, 2015 at 5:23 PM
    #10
    Bluegrass Taco

    Bluegrass Taco Politically incorrect low tech redneck

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    I used to own a business where I bought, restored and then re-sold antique farm tractors. I was hauling them all over the country. I also did for hire hauling of farm equipment. After doing the math, I finally figured out that all the money I was making on selling restored tractors was going back out the door paying for trailers, trucks, and in some cases paying my drivers.

    So....I solved that problem by selling 3 of my 4 truck/trailers and contracting with a local towing service to haul for me on their rollbacks. For the 2-1/2 years I did it that way, I actually made quite a profit. Then the bottom fell out of the antique tractor market when the economy tanked in '06.

    My point is, if your haul is a one time deal, it would probably be cheaper and SAFER to let someone else do the hauling rather than sinking a lot into your truck. Saves a lot of wear and tear too.
     
    wsurunner and Capt Jrod like this.
  11. Nov 30, 2015 at 5:47 PM
    #11
    TacoOwner?

    TacoOwner? Well-Known Member

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    Hate to give you some bad news but I would highly recommend against it. I install hitches for Uhaul and have a pretty good idea of what vehicles can pull. First you need to weight approx 10% more than what you are pulling and since the truck you are pulling weighs about 3250 plus the AT (Auto-transport) which is about 2200 totaling 5450, out weighing you Taco which is 3300-4200. Then if auto you also run risk of overheating the transmission.

    I also checked the Uhaul 'Hookup book' and it declines that combination of equipment. Is there anything bigger you could tow it with? Are you planning on driving down to buy it or moving?
     
  12. Nov 30, 2015 at 5:50 PM
    #12
    TacoOwner?

    TacoOwner? Well-Known Member

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    I could run you a quote and get you the best possible price but I would need to know when you wanna get it, where you are coming from and going to. If going to pick it up from out of town I could get you a good rate on a one-way round trip, so there and back with a uhaul truck/trailer...
     

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