Need Sub Suggestion - Specific

Hey all, after much back and forth, I believe I'm totally settled on a direction and I just want it to be as simple and clean as possible. I'm planning on using the Single 10" box behind the driver's side double cab rear seat from Supercrewsounds, and I sourced an MTX 500.1 Mono amp from another project. I'd like to get a good quality Sub in the neighborhood of $100-$150, but am finding myself straddling the low end and the high end. Is there a consensus here?

Box: http://www.supercrewsound.com/05tacomadblsingle.html

Stats:

• Air Space = .65 cubic foot
• Mounting Depth = 5 3/8" (Optional 6")
• Mounting Depth based on 6" diameter magnet

 

You may be a good candidate for a 10" Sundown SD3. It's $50 over your budget but sounds amazing. At $200 shipped it's a steal! Magnet may be difficult in that box though - it's 8 inches across. But only 4 3/4 mounting depth and it doesn't vent through the back plate (no space needed behind it).

I have one & it's off the chain. It isn't an SPL sub although it will get pretty loud. It does the low stuff very nicely. It does everything very nicely. Inverted surround helps with front clearance as well. It was made for sealed cabs about the size of the one you're looking at.

 

Arg, I knew someone would suggest this. It seems to be the most highly recommended sub 'round these parts. I worry about the diameter of the magnet, because the box from supercrewsounds assumes 6", and they had trouble with Alpine Type R because of the magnet. I'll ask them, unless there's another box you'd suggest for driver's side double cab.

 

Been out of the Car audio game for a while but you can get some pretty high end used stuff. I would look at Image Dynamics (aka IDMAX), Alpine Type R, JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, hell even some Kicker Comp VR's. That MTX 500.1 is a killer amp.

 

Best way is to have Mr. Marv build you one. Err maybe find one in the classifieds...I see 'em from time to time. I think he's a bit backlogged at the moment, but it's made just for your ride and you probably can't do better without a custom shop job which will cost you a good bit more. I build my own though so have no first hand experience either way.

 

As much as I'd like to build my own, I don't have the time to sink into it for a first time build. I feel like the wasted MDF would pile up quickly

 

FWIW, lots of Marv-built stuff in the classifieds right now. Looks like some of them would give you a lot more options regarding driver choice

 

Not sure if I'm looking in the wrong spot or doing a poor just searching, but the only one I see is the single 10" that takes up the whole passenger side.

 

Try this link

Looking more closely just a few that have been bumped recently, maybe something you can use?

 

cool, appreciated

 

I have the SD3 10 sub and a box that i built with the help of Marv. The problem with the SD3 10 is the channel that you have to make for the bar that goes across the back wall. I had to cut the child seat hooks off so that i could get the magnet to fit.

The box from the link looks like it has a channel large enough that you do not have to remove the child seat hooks, this will prevent you from mounting the SD3 10s. The JL tw3 shallow mount sub will probably fit however you will be limited to dual 4 ohm coils.

Check out my audio build to see the box i made. The link is in my signature.

 

You actually nailed this perfectly. Supercrew got back to me and that's basically what they said. They did however suggest that the JL 10W3 will fit, and I think that's what I'm going to pick up. Can someone confirm Single 2 OHM would be best for my purposes?

 

Considering the amp you intend to use, that's a good match...puts you right at rated power. Enclosure volume looks like a good match too. That should all work nicely.

 

Ordered up, thanks all. While I have some attention here, is there an suggested alternative to a simple LOC that isn't wildly expensive? (<$100)

 

Any thoughts from anyone on the LOC? Hell even if there's a LOC suggestion I'll take it.

 

I would go very basic on the LOC. A voltage divider that doesn't "add" to the signal is all you really need. A lot of companies pack additional features into their LOCs which end up causing more headaches down the road. This looks to be a good unit:

$12 PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter 1.2x6.25x5.9

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W