Reloading BS thread

Bore scopes are cool, but can wreck your confidence. I’ve had rough barrels shoot great and perfect looking barrels not so great. It is easy to spot obvious problems with chamber throats and leades.

I Dyna Bore Coat every new rifle now and don’t worry about how things look as long as it shoots.

 

So up to this point I've just worked up incrementally, however on occasion will look at Sierra load data and see what velocity is listed for their accuracy load and start around there. I should ask Santa for a chrono lol. I also use quite a few Hornady products so have looked at what their advertised velocity factory loads.

 

Also have used a ogive guage to see what a decent factory load reads and apply to my col if possible. Case in point; I have this 224 Valkyrie that shoots factory 70g Federal well below a inch at 100 yards. I was wanting to shoot 88g Hornady but couldn't get anything decent. Sooo, I clipped and filed the plastic tip off to load out longer and going to try that next

 

I know that sounds red neck for lack of better terms, but got 300 bullets to play with!

 

Just get to your velocity you want and starting from about .002 off the lands, start going down in .003 increments for seating depth until you hit a node. Use the center of the node and I haven’t personally had to chase the lands for any of my barrel burners much doing this.
If you need to use data for long range, and need a definitive MV, shoot 600-800y and if you’re using applied ballistics or ballistic AE, use the truing function and you're gucci. Anything after that will be minor adjustments to MV and BC, or if using AB, just stick with CDMs and avoid BC all together.

 

I’ll have to check out that manual, thanks for the link.
The thing is factory ammo isn’t loaded to be near max pressure so I can only use a chrono to replicate factory loads and not fully utilize the additional headroom of the updated chamber. Getting a chrono will allow me to see what charge is similar to factory loads though.

Believe it or not I never transferred that to Excel , I need to do that this week.
It’s nice to have a database of info for stuff like that, all of my serialized guns and accessories are all listed in a spreadsheet as well as cost, modifications, warranty issues, etc.

 

Even if you were replicating a factory load, unless you are using the exact primer, brass and bullet loaded to the same seating depth (base to ogive) it’s still very approximate in pressure. like I said on a earlier post, use a chrono and just work up a charge to your velocity .002 off the lands. This will have the most pressure and seating down lower when you start tuning for accuracy, your pressure will be the same or less. The issue that would be catastrophic would be if you did a max load compressed and happened to be jammed. I think that would be a bad pressure spike in a bottle necked case.

 

Factory ammo is loaded to average max specs for the individual cartridge based on SAAMI for most cartridges. What may have been true 40-50 years ago just isn't anymore. Newer designed cartridges that have no old rifle concerns are not underloaded. Handloading rarely bests factory loads in velocity while staying within SAAMI specs. Now, some cartridges that are spec'd for 50Kpsi and fired in rifles that are also chambered in cartridges spec'd for 60Kpsi can be loaded to higher pressures for higher velocities, but not because the factory was underloading. Same with reloading data. It is not underloaded for "legal" purposes. Pressure testing is much easier and more accurate than it used to be and has been verified many times over.

Magic velocities come from increased pressures. Brass starts to flow above 70,000PSI. Once you get signs of pressure, you are already well over max. Backing down from pressure signs can still have your load at 70,000PSI with no outward sign. A large gain in velocity over factory loads should be a clue though.

There are a lot of people who claim they get increased velocity because of their smart handloads. I don't shoot anyone else's handloads.

Thankfully, modern rifles and brass are pretty strong. Hotrodders usually get away with it and may never have an issue. Some do though.

 

To crimp or not to crimp? 45/70 cartridges for lever action.

 

I crimp most everything. A tubular magazine like lever, I'd say crimp.

 

Next question, i might have to return bullets, does it have to have the crimp groove on bullets to crimp? I would think it needs a groove, Sorry if this is dumb question as im a little new to reloading. Ive reloaded some 308 and 300 win, this is the first 45/70 i will reload.

 

Ammo so scarce lately I picked up 500 pieces of used brass and 300 Sierra/Sig V-crown 90g. I had to load them to shorter than usual COL to function in a LCP. Yeah, never imagined buying dies and components for .380. I'm seeing it a good option to have at times.

 

That is a question I can't answer for certain. I've only loaded for 30-30 and all my bullets have had a crimp groove and more of a flat tip or rubber tip to be butted up against the primer of the following round in the tube. I use Lee style crimp dies. Many scoff at my crimping most everything but just my choice. If you ever used a hammer style kinetic bullet puller, lol...even I question are my crimps necessary. Removing uncrimped mulligan that is

 

I've got several reloading manuals and will take a look at few to see what's commonly used.

 

A quick peek at Lyman manual...3 different types of 45/70 yeah all bullets used show a crimp groove.

 

Never ever was there a dumb question about reloading. Or most anything for that matter. Except something on the order of, hey you think this vegetable oil or canola be better in my new Tacoma.... then maybe dumb

 

And you may consider hanging on to those 45 cal bullets for another something or something in the future. Good luck on your quest to find something appropriate.

 

No way - there's a reloading thread here? Liking this site more every day.

Anyone need some help/direction drop me a message. I do my fair share of reloading.

 

Hmmm, 3 die set so full size, bullet seat and crimp. Interesting to see what RCBS crimp die looks like. Also have you taken a look at those bullets? Sometimes I think the picture is a representation and not actual product..although most will specify with cannelure if they have groove. Me...I'd try them but put the whammy on em with crimp die.