Remote Start

Hey man, no worries from here. The people that actually use your product love it. I haven't read a negative response yet that your company hasn't resolved quickly and efficiently. I own it, wouldn't trade it although I wouldn't say that I would enjoy not restarting the engine after opening, but thats the tradeoff. Keep up the good work and customer service. Anytime someone mentions remote start aftermarket, your kit is the first one I mention!

 

Thanks my man!

 

I never claimed to design anything. I take the harness from fortin and clean it up so that only the plugs you need are exposed. As a former MECP installer for 10 years, I know my way around cars and could bypass the system if I like as well, but don’t care to as I am not selling remote starters to make a living or void any warranties. As a Tacoma owner I do it to give fellow tacoma owners a good deal on a 3x system. If a customer wants a cellular option I have that as well.

 

Curious as to what method you're gonna go with on this one... As an old colleague used to say: "I [personally] have no dog in this fight", I neither sell kits here (or at all for that matter), nor do I have a 3rd gen -- I'm just a nerd. I can think of three ways you might do this, but I'm hoping for a surprise .

Btw, where's your 2nd gen plug and play harness? You have 4Runner G key, where's the Tacoma love?

 

Easiest would be a T-harness

 

Wut? Easiest for what?

 

Oh God damn it, I see what you're replying to -- that's my bad. I don't care about the TPMS connection, I agree, T-Harness is the answer to that. I'm after the alternative method for PTS door opening hooplahs.

 

Wasn’t trying to teach you anything. Just responding to a question. Glad you like 12volt, they seem like a good company. I just offer a lower cost alternative since I “work out of my garage”.

 

Well depends on how the remote works. If the remote broadcasts the button press and the timing is figured out at the truck side, then sure, in theory it would be possible to map it out. However, if the remote itself handles that logic and doesn't actually broadcast that press/function until x amount of milliseconds of time, then it wouldn't be as easy as simply listening for the press at the truck side and doing something with presses shorter than x ms.

 

Your assumption is that the remote treats all buttons the same with respect to when it starts broadcasting "hey truck, y button is being pressed". That's where I'm saying the panic button might be handled entirely on the remote side -- not broadcasting any [panic] signal until the panic button has been held for x ms. There's a chance that the remote might treat it just like the lock and unlock buttons and just pass the info on to the truck as it receives the input from the user too, but only real way to know for sure is either to sniff the remote presses with something like an SDR, or sniff out RDA lines with an o'scope, or sniff out the CAN lines.

The modules work by listening on the CAN bus for the "lock" presses, they also listen for the unlock, and panic signals, but they don't do anything interesting for the consumer in this particular application -- I can speak on that with confidence, at least for one particular manufacturer.

Edit: Forgot to answer the fob/truck relationship. If the truck has push button start, then there's typically a registration step where the vehicle and fob need to exchange some initial info to "get on the same page" so to speak and when you press a button to open a door or start the engine from the car, they talk to each other bidirectionally to confirm everything is gravy.

In a typical simple keyless entry however (standard key, no smart key doodads), the remotes typically just have a precoded, application-specific algorithm (to a degree), and a "unique" identifier. In these cases, it's usually a simple one way relationship where the fob knows nothing about the specific car it's talking to and doesn't care. The car on the other hand needs to be told what remotes to actually care about and from there it just relies on knowing the IDs for the remotes it "knows" and the preprogrammed algorithm they both know. Each button press from the final generates a payload contsisting at least with the command being sent, and the remote's ID, and encrypted with the aforementioned rolling code algorithm.

Things may be a bit different nowadays, but this was pretty much the gist of the state of things a few years ago for the majority of keyless entry systems OEM and aftermarket.

 

Pfff Toyota engineer... Nah, you just need some boredom and a few toys. Sadly I can only go so far as confirming on 2nd gens since that's what I'm driving, but if you want to come by the Bay Area with your 3rd gen, then we can see how both work. Doesn't really help kick the module manufacturer's to start supporting it, but we can at least know for science.

 

Oh I'm 99.99% sure they won't give a damn what a niche group like some Tacoma drivers want specifically lol. You might already have an o'scope which would probably be the most cost effective way. You can also buy a USB SDR for like $30 or so IIRC. You should be able to probe the RDA wire in the truck with the scope and see activity corresponding to button presses -- which should be enough to confirm/reject the theories. If you go the SDR route, you might have to do a bit of tuning, but you can find the fob frequency from FCC filings and should be able to see if the remote sends anything out with the button presses. You won't be able to tell specifically is being transmitted with these methods, but all you're looking for is that something is being transmitted.

If you want to invest in some CAN sniffing tools, I think the cheapest/painless way in is something like the CANUSB or the CANtact, both of which should be less than $100 or so. Software might be your biggest hurdle if you're locked down to Windows since all the good stuff is pricey, but if you know your way around *nix, can-utils is free and effective AND can run on something as cheap as a Raspberry Pi. The plus side to CAN sniffing is that it opens up more information for you, even more than you bargain for.

Edit: just looked up the Kvaser stuff and if you spent as much money as the products I see on the website are going for, it should probably also work for your purposes! I personally don't have any experience with Kvaser though.

 

My son is shopping for a Honda CRV or a Hyundai Tuscon and both come with auto start. Come on Toyota, keep up with the competition...

 

I have a very expensive o scope, I can just look for a signal reading, that’s good enough for me because I couldn’t care less about the data string, what it is or how it’s parsed coming in as you said, just want to see some change in the scope read out. If your ever in LA down from the Bay Area, swing by, beers on me brother. It seems you and I can come up with some cooler hacks lol...

 

I just hit the lock button 3 times :shrug: Dealer installed made it even easier

 

If anyone in the SoCal area isn’t comfortable enough to install the 12voltsoltuions themselves or open trim up, you can message me. This goes for the smart add on module too. Keep in mind you can’t add the smart module that lets you use the phone app unless you have the base unit first (remote start module via FOB).

 

Maybe when I get over the envy of how much more active the CAN bus is on a 3rd gen vs. a 2nd gen.

 

Curious to how many consumers will be impacted by Verizon shutting down the CDMA network by end of 2019 from an industry perspective. It seems like the majority of cell units manufactured ran on that.

 

I think biggest of which being older OnStar vehicles too...

 

Boy how things have changed on this thread.