Snugtop Topper Modifications

I honestly don't know where else to post this but I figured I'd add this to the database of information on TW and make it searchable as best as possible.

Specs: Snugtop Super Sport for 01-04 short bed

Issues I had:

Issue 1. The pop lock mechanism on the older style Snugtops significantly protrudes on the backside. This turns out to be brutal. I guess having a topper of 20 years on my 1998 without this issue allowed me to walk face first into this fawking thing so many times. Or have it dig into my scalp (drawing blood twice). Or if I'm crawling in, or out of the bed, having it trench out my spine.

I investigated buying the newer pop lock which has a slightly lower profile mechanism. After measuring both, the minimal gain wasn't worth the $90.

So I looked at different struts. Calling Snugtop is useless. They will only recommend one strut, presumably for liability purposes. The one they will only recommend is the

$21 C16-06874 C1606874 17" Gas Prop, Quantity (2), Force 40 Lbs Per Prop, Force Per Set 80 Lbs, Camper Rear Window, Tonneau Cover Lift Supports, Struts, Made in USA

C16-06874. Which only raises the back glass so that it is essentially parallel with the topper roof line. Putting that god foresaken pop lock in a position to destroy its enemies.

I searched Suspa's website and found the C16-33313 strut. Same body length and force but 1.6" longer.

Specs of the struts:

C16-06874:
Center-to-Center Length Extended: 17.1"
Center-to-Center Length Compressed: 10.8"
Force: 40 lbs

C16-33313:
Center-to-Center Length Extended: 18.7"
Center-to-Center Length Compressed: 10.8"
Force: 40 lbs

The latter now raises the rear glass at a significantly higher angle without the glass hitting the body of the shell. And seemingly not putting any additional strain on the hinges or fiberglass to which the hinges are mounted.

Now that mf'ing pop lock is completely out of the way. Unfortunately I do not have any before pictures of the angle of the glass when open. But you get the point.

Before (looking straight at the glass and this demon... stained red with the blood of its enemies)




After:

 

Issue 2

The clamp style of the older Snugtop seems idiotic to me. Sure it's nice and sleek looking but the J-style hook significantly flexes and compromises the thin sheet metal of the bed lip. Even if you don't overly tighten it down... just from the flexing. Hell in the short period of time I've had this topper on my truck with the J-hooks it bent the sheet metal.

So I investigated the newer style clamps that incorporate a much wider base. Of course Snugtop says only the J-hook style clamps work and that the newer ones won't. But I took a chance after reviewing the width of the bolts, etc.

I'm here to tell you that they work just fine. (of course if my topper decides to jettison itself off on the highway or trail, I'll update the thread)

New style clamp Part Number: 715406

Old:






New:

 

Who’s 95/96/97 is that in the background? I like it

 

Grill swap?

 

That’s my 98 that I’ve owned for 20 years.

I did a front end swap on it.

 

Ohh I think I remember seeing your thread about that. Looks good! Next time buy a 96/97

 

I am so glad I found this! I have been wanting to modify my ARE shell to use these style clamps but was unsure how they worked cause ARE only uses the big obnoxious aluminum split clamps


Are the lines of your snugtop even with the sides of your bedrails? My ARE lip protrudes about 1/4" in towards the bed on both sides so I may have to get fancy and do a custom dogleg in the hook to make work

 

on the inside of the bed?

yes the topper bottom is pretty flush with the bed rail vertical line.

 

This thread has been very helpful, ordering parts for my snugtop currently.

thank you

 

nice. I’m using the same clamps for my truck as well. I also added 4 of the C style clamps as well to help secure it more. Total of 5 clamps per side.

 

I don't think my hatch hardware was installed correctly, the linkage keeps popping out

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...stalled-wrong-pics-snugtop-supersport.721674/

Would you mind perhaps sharing a pic of yours please?

 

Was your snugtop topper regular height (same height as the cab)? Or is your topper a bit taller than the cab? I’m having the same issue on my 2009, whacking my head on the inner handle of my Snugtop. So I want to get longer struts for the hatch like you did. My struts are only about 15.5-16” long while they’re extended though. So I’m wondering if my topper is shorter than yours, and if I should go for those 17” struts or all the way up to the 18.7” struts.
Thanks!

 

Sorry I missed this.

My topper is cab high.

The longer struts I linked in the first post eliminated the scalpings. But in the end I just installed the newer pro lock version on the topper.

Much better mechanism and lock style. Plus a shallower profile on the backside.

 

Any issues installing the pro lock version from the older 'poplock' red one? They say it's not compatible but you're the 2nd person I've found saying they did it. Any heads up on parts needed aside from the Pro Lock itself or any issues? Thanks!

Just favorited this for a later DIY as I could always use longer struts, I always thought it was a bit low from the factory.

 

I just brought it to the topper shop that deals with Snugtop. Only the ProLock mechanism was replaced

No issues whatsoever.