Starter or ignition problem?

Still new here and did a search but could find any info, but I went to start my truck this morning and when I turned the key I could hear the starter engage but didn't try to start the motor. Tried a couple of times then finally the motor started turning but didn't fire up for a couple seconds while it was spinning. Went to the store about 10 min down the road and it did the same thing about not turning over but this time after a few turns of the key it turned over and fired up right off the bat. So I get back home and unload but grabbed the spare key to move the truck since the main one is was on the other side of the house. Put the key in and it fires up first turn. Turned the truck off and tried it about 5 more times without a problem. Went back inside to grab the main key I use and it started up without a problem. Also just a back history this problem started yesterday but wasn't as bad, and when I used the spare key I didn't seem to have any problems. Not sure if it was just a coincidence that when I use the spare key I don't have problems starting such as when I use the main key first and it doesn't want to start.

 

Use your spare key for a few days and see if the problem still occurs. Could be the microchip in your main key deteriorating, but it's rare.

I had a similar problem with a Dodge Caravan years ago and had to call a tow truck. The tow truck driver turned the key back and forth about 15 times; eventually the starter moved and started the engine. The van didn't have modern immobilizers, chipped keys, alarms, etc. The starter was replaced.

 

Yeah, I was going to start using the spare but would like to have a starter on the way if that's the problem.

 

If you turned the key and heard it engage then it either didn't fully engage or there is missing teeth on the flywheel.
Sounds like it's not fully engaging tho'.

You could take it off and have it checked or like the fellow says it might be the fob.

 

I'd buy a new battery.

 

Check your electrical commection,specifically your battery and chassis ground. Often what happens is corrosion build up not allowing full current to reach the starter motor. There is enough current to engage but not turn the motor. After a few tries it may arc inside the connection and clear up a bit. Best thing to do is clean the battery terminals and ground wire connection. I am a fan of those felt terminal protectors and/or red terminal spray.
As for the not starting while engine turning over, during the initial attempts and the engine not rotating, the injectors were delivering fuel. Sort of a hot / rich start condition.

 

Figure the battery is nearly 5 years old; gotta replace that first. You're south of Houston? Figure the heat would halve the life of a 84 month battery and may have weakness in the cells hit/miss on connections.
SHouldn't be your key though.

 

1GR-FE Starting
Starting System: Parts Location, System Diagram, Inspection
Starter (For 2WD And Pre-runner): Components, Removal, Disassembly, Inspection
Starter (For 2WD And Pre-runner): Reassembly
Starter (For 2WD And Pre-runner): Installation
Starter (For 4WD): Components, Removal
Starter (For 4WD): Disassembly, Inspection
Starter (For 4WD): Reassembly
Starter (For 4WD): Installation
Starter Relay: Inspection
Ignition Switch: Removal, Inspection, Installation


1GR-FE Charging
Charging System: Precaution, Parts Location
Charging System: System Diagram, On-Vehicle Inspection
Generator (For DENSO Made): Components, Removal, Disassembly, Inspection, Reassembly
Generator (For DENSO Made): Installation
Generator (For BOSCH Made): Components, Removal, Disassembly, Inspection, Reassembly
Generator (For BOSCH Made): Installation

 

Cool^

 

I think I'm about to tackle this starter replacement... From what I can tell, you have to remove part of the exhaust and steering linkage?! That sucks!!

 

Yea, I had to change mine out last year and it sucked dude. Bolts were on there right, had to heat them up, take off linkage and steering shaft to get to it as well. PITA. Haven't had problems since with my AutoZone starter (knock on wood)

 

Had to heat up which bolts? For the exhaust?

 

Sorry for the late reply, Battery is an Optima yellow top from 10/12 so not the original battery. Been switching the keys back and forth and havent had a problem since. Not sure why I had problems for those two days

 

No on the starter. Even the impact couldn't get them off.

 

IMHO, very common Toyota starter problems are burned starter solenoid contacts, corroded battery power or ground connections, unhealthy battery, or worn starter brushes, in that order. But, since you live in a hot climate, check your electrolyte levels (and add distilled water, if required), fully charge your battery, and have it tested. Most auto parts and battery stores will do this free and it only takes a few minutes. For more information, see Car and Deep Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org.

 

My 2008 starter was beginning to act up, removed and rebuilt it, but felt some updates to this site might be in order.
If you have a 4X4, this is NOT an easy task. The explanations here are not easy to follow, and I appreciated the factory manual links, but I don't know how one could follow the directions to remove the starter on this site, as i read whatever i could find is posted.
Here's how I did it:
The starter is unbolted and then taken apart while still in the truck, to remove it without taking the exhaust or drive train apart, removing a steering linkage rod, or bending the brake lines.
The 2 bolts holding the starter to the engine are extremely tight, and require a 1/2" drive extension set, 3/8" will bend and spring. You need a long extension to reach up in there from under the truck, and a universal fitting, and a good quality, tight fitting 6 point socket.
Crack the 2 bolts by hand using the 1/2 " drive set, and then they come out easy with your air ratchet, or by hand.
There are 2 bolts that hold the the starter to the yolk, remove these to pull the yolk from the starter. Be Careful! The starter has nothing holding it together, best done with a friend to hold while you undo the bolts from underneath, and the yolk is facing up.
Now the motor comes down easy through the frame, but the yolk must be removed by getting directly under the opening between the axle and frame, and if you carefully place the yolk horizontally, you will see they designed it to come out and go back in that way, and ONLY one way.
I took my starter apart, thanks to the excellent diagrams supplied in the links above, and found it in near perfect condition save for the solenoid and copper contacts. I bought a replacement kit from my local rebuilder ( $20) and they showed me how to press the solenoid in place ( I used my drill press) while tightening the copper contact, to get them in Exactly the right place. The main mistake they see is not doing this, and the copper contacts wear out sooner than they would otherwise.
I cleaned and re-greased the gears, polished the motor and put everything back together. My brushes were is excellent condition, all gears perfect.
Re-install is the reverse of what I have explained, having a friend hold the yolk while you feed the motor assembly carefully up through the space while holding the parts together, slip the 2 bolts in and start them to hold the assembly together. Tighten them up and the the starter goes back in place. I did not over-tighten like the factory did, just about 65lbs of torque.
The starter worked like the truck was new, I did not realize it has been slowing down a bit over the years. It is a real shame to think these quality pieces of equipment are being thrown out, because the cost and time to rebuild then is excessive at dealer rates.
I hope this helps explain and make someone's work a little easier.

 

Before removing clean the conections the try and start one more time.

 

sub'd i think my starter just took a crap and it making me throw a code p0345.

 

Reading this, I have to wonder if there are significant differences in that area within the Gen2. I just got finished pulling the starter on my 2013 4x4 4 cyl manual trans. Your description of loosening the mounting bolts is right on, but based on this and some videos I'd watched, I was expecting to have to struggle to get the starter out, disassemble it, take extra parts off, etc. Once I got the starter off, I was able to remove it down between the frame and engine without any problem.

 

He probably has a V6 1GR-FE Engine which would have an exhaust header pipe in the way where your exhaust is on the opposite side with a 2TR-FE 4 Cylinder.