Turbo BS Thread

Yeah it seems like a great platform for Engine management and they have a ton of support for it. However at this point since I love to tinker with stuff I should have got the Dominator instead for all the extra I/O is can control also PWM signals. But for the Tacoma I guess the Terminator will be fine.
When I redo my Camaro I am for sure going to go with the Dominator so I can set up traction control plus other things I'd like it to control. I have the Holley Commander 950 ECU on that one and I built that setup back in 2003 or so, its ready for an upgrade now..

 

Did exhaust valves and seals today. Only eight of them but was a major PITA for me. I finally got the hang of putting the keepers back in after the first 3 and 2 hours of cursing. Found one valve on its way out. Went back with Supertech stainless. Used a pistol grip wood clamp, 3/4” PVC, and a random bits of bent zip ties and a magnet.


Put my slightly used Wiseco pistons and forged rods in. New rings and new bearings. Made 4 passes with the dingleberry for a quick cross hatch double helix.


Drove out the old pilot bearing and put in a new one. SMFW and B7RS4 clutch set.




That was all today. Yesterday I prepped the block for delivery of rings today. Also awaited delivery of a SST to hold tension on the VVT tensioner. Also yesterday I Frankensteined the lower valance back together.



Tomorrow I hope to have the engine together and tranny reattached. Hopefully sitting in the engine bay on motor mounts. Will be awaiting delivery of a Chinese cast aluminum coolant flange to replace the 20yo German plastic piece I ripped in half with a tractor.

Gotta family night planned and all my little band nerds, myself, and wife are headed to the local university and watch the Drum Corps do their thing.
https://calendar.usm.edu/event/drum_corps_international_southern_mississippi#.YuCbaRZOmEc

 

Oh, yeah. Also yesterday, I drilled and tapped the head for 3/8-16 exhaust bolts. Custom made the proper length bolts and 2 studs from a sack of tractor supply bolts. Drilled the turbo manifold to 7/16”. Made sure I had at least 20mm of hole depth and 18mm of thread engagement. Made sure to cut bolts off for 15-16mm of engagement when using the slim nord lock washers and through the manifold. Drilling and tapping head holes made me a bit nervous. Especially since I was freehanding them. I was able to drill press the 7/16” mani holes.

 

^^^ This! My God man. You have been busy! Frankenstein would be proud of said stitching!

 

Did you really use wet bread in the pilot hole for a Non Neutonian fluid replacement, or am I just assuming things at this point?

 

It was dry actually. Make marble sized balls and drop them in. Find something that nearly matches ID of bearings and beat in with a shop hammer. Compress air out, add some more balls, and beat again. Will work every time as long as the ‘found’ tool is almost the same size and the bread level doesn’t exceed about 1/4 internal height of bearing. Grease is messy and actual pullers get used how often unless you run a shop?

 

Well I must say that was creative thinking. I normally used toilet paper and water to do them back when I didn't have the right puller for those tiny pilot bearings.
Good job.

 

When I worked in HS for my uncle at his ATV shop it was next door to a greasy burger joint. One day we had a bearing to remove similar to a pilot and he went next door and got a burger bun. Stuffed it in and gave it a few whacks. Put it came.

 

I did not get as far along as anticipated. I realized I dry installed the rod bearings so I popped those off and lubed. Cams gave me fits for a little while but got them in. Then the oil pan. Then put the head on and new timing belt. Intake manifold with a new thing for me… some sort of teflon gasket that’s supposed to keep head heat soak out of the intake manifold. We’ll see. Then moved around to the business end and the turbo bits. This manifold threw me a curve but I adapted and overcame. I ended up building my own SST to tighten three bolts up. I would’ve never gotten them tight if I had used studs and nuts in 3/8”. Maybe m8, but not 3/8”.

It allowed me to turn just a flat to flat. Was enough when I added a box end wrench and some leverage.





Question. I bought a small sheet of glass at Lowes and then stuck some sandpaper to it. Then I polished the t3 flange in hopes of getting a perfect seal. I’m going to try it without a gasket and see if it holds. Anyone done similar?

 

You'd probably want to use a wedge lock washers if you forgo the T3 gasket. You'd want your flange to be slightly like this )(
When you torque down the flange you get a spring like action to account for heat expansion and contractions.

 

You could give this a try, im not sure how it would hold up long term though
https://www.permatex.com/products/oreilly/permatex-ultra-blue-rtv-3-5oz/

 

I’ll be running nord lock. Have had great luck with these not backing out through heat cycling.

I’ll be knocking at 1400-1600* and likely 50psi manifold pressure. Couldn’t hurt though to seal the micro grooves.

 

Time to torture a 5VZ

 

If you have both sides true and flat then put some grease on it (I know it sounds weird) but when that stuff gets super hot it will turn into a DIY carbon gasket.

 

Good catch on the bearings, and nice adaptation for the head bolts.

 

Lube is always cheaper than labor…in more ways than one.

 

I think its actually torture without boost.

 

That's fair, I've always driven it like you drive a riced out civic, bump redline and shift. It moves but not as well as it's about to haha

 

Torque multiplication inbound.