UBJ torque confusion

I started tightening with the wheel, capilper, etc. still disassembled. The instructions have it at 80. I set the wrench for 70. I typically low ball it so if I am spot on for the cotter pin at 79, I leave it. Anyway, I have not hit the 70 yet & the cotter pin hole seems too high already.
Other thing is I decided to double check torque specs & my manual has it at 105. Also there is a reference to ubj mounting nuts & bolts at 25 & I have no idea what they are.
Any help as to specs, lifted or not, etc, would be great.

 

& I see that in the Timmy vid he’s working on a 4Runner so that’s why the 80. I’m guessing 105 for me (4x4). Although the directions from Moog have 80.

 

I just did the ubj's on my 01 prerunner and got them to 80 ft lbs. I'm sure that you will be good at that

 

For castle nuts you tighten to the correct torque then tighten if needed to the first notch that allows the cotter pin to be inserted.

 

Hole location height is fine.

 

Yeah, it’s not bad as it is. Any higher above the castle nut, then put a hardened flat washer under the nut - gr 10.9 / gr 8.

 

specs

 

Gives me an error message when I try to open it for some reason

I have these that might help

 

That pic wasn’t even at 70. I torqued it more before I ran out the door this a.m. & no one had responded yet. I still didn’t hit 80 &, well, it was even lower of course. Oh, & that was not jacked up. Tire, caliper, etc. we’re back on.
& I can’t seem to open your file either.

 

Pre-runners are 2wd, correct? So if my book is correct, that would put them at 80 (as @eon_blue posted), as well as 4Runners. Then mine has the 4wd at 105.

 

Yes the Prerunners are basically 4x4s without the 4x4 parts, built on the same frame with the same suspension. I'm not sure about the 4runners, they probably share a lot of the same parts/torque specs but I wouldn't bet on that without verifying.

 

Oh, my bad. I see @eon_blue post does include 4x4. I just saw pre-runner. Ok. I’ll have to put a washer or two under the nut. I’ll torque it to specs (80 ) first & see what i’ll need.

 

Just hope my other stuff is torqued correctly. i’ve been using my manual a lot for that info with most of this work I’ve been doing.

 

Can't hurt to go over it again, especially suspension related bolts. It's good practice to check torque on them anyhow every once in awhile

 

Someone a little while ago had a similar problem, and it may have been the wrong part. What part (number) did you get? Are you sure it matches your exact model?

 

https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k90255
Their wording is a little weird in that I have a 6 lug 4x4, so one could take their description to mean 4x4 5 lug. However they don’t ask when plugging in the truck description.

 

I think this is the thread I was thinking of, but it's for the lower ball joint, but a similar problem with the cotter pin hole being too high. I'm not sure if anyone ever figured out the problem, and the thread eventually devolved into an OEM versus aftermarket ball joint debate as usual

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/does-this-look-right.643153/

 

Might have missed someone saying this already, but you're supposed to torque to spec, then if you need to line up the cotter pin, tighten it just enough so you can get the pin in it.

Don't under torque it just to get the cotter pin to fit.

 

I compared the two & they seem pretty spot on as far as height & hole spottage. If I could just straighten out the Moog I could put "spot on" instead of "pretty spot on". Think I'm gonna have to take a torch to it....