What to expect

I have a stock TRD Sport and have had no issues driving in hills with snow. I'm sure the Off-road equipment would give me more confidence to go where I shouldn't, but the Sport hasn't failed me yet. I'm still running the stock Dunlops.

 

An empty bed doesn't put much weight on the rear tires. The rear tires contribute to braking. It's a similar concept to commercial vehicles. A semi with little or no weight on the trailer, or no trailer, will skid further before coming to a stop. As a commercial driver, this is a concept that is taught to us and heavily emphasized.

If the rear tires are sliding, the ability to steer is decreased.

 

When I was stationed in alaska I thought I had a great idea. I put a couple of rubbermade tubs in my bed and filled them with water. They froze solid and added a bunch of weight. What I learned though, was that once the rear end started to kick out, it was a lot harder to reel it back in. Granted, the ice up there stays all winter long and gets very "polished" from people spinning around the same corner for months straight so, it gets slick. I ended up taking them back out. With 4wd, they are not needed to get you going (I would/have used them for a 2wd) and don't seem to do much once you are under way. I'd say more than anything, tires are the key.

 

I put a used snugtop cap on my truck. Not for weight, but it does add 140 pounds to the back end. I have an OR and haven't had a chance to use the locker to get unstuck. The Sport should do just fine. Hell, many Prerunners are doing just fine. Depends on tires, driver and skill level to a point. I am still on the stock rugged fails and they have done ok so far. Will change them soon, but they worked to pull out a Jeep Cherokee during the last snow storm. 4 wheel drive helped I'm sure, no lockers needed.

 

If you put more weight in your tacoma it will take longer to stop. Its an absolute fact. Physics do not lie.

 

This is what people need to be listening to. This is fact and the best advice you can give.

 

If an empty semi truck takes a set distance to stop, it sure as hell will not stop quicker fully loaded. Whether it be on ice, snow or asphault. The result will show the loaded vehicle sliding right past the unloaded.

 

Except in extreme conditions a locking rear diff is a disadvantage in snow/ice.

 

With a rudimentary understanding of physics I can see how this argument would be appealing. You should meet Blue T, I think you'd be friends.

 

you can't make a blanket statement like that because as it is, it is wrong wrong wrong

This -depends entirely on the conditions- and available friction at the tires

in some circumstances (many seen in winter) where more traction is gained by adding weight
more weight increases traction above and beyond the added energy needed to stop the added weight to get that traction.

sometimes with weight, you get more grip, and can stop better, in some circumstances.

so, answer is....it depends

apples to apples on surfaces with grip and not sliding, yes more weight take longer to stop

 

Thank you. I'm at the end of a stretch of 2 straight weeks at work and could not have phrased that as accurately, or tactfully, in my current mental state.

 

From a Trucking truth website; Effect of Vehicle Weight on Stopping Distance

"The heavier the vehicle, the more work the brakes must do to stop it and the more heat they absorb. But the brakes, tires, springs and shock absorbers on heavy vehicles are designed to work best when the vehicle is fully loaded. Empty trucks require greater stopping distances, because an empty vehicle has less traction. It can bounce and lock up its wheels, giving much poorer braking." Not sure if the same applies to a pickup...
I seem to remember a study showing a fully loaded semi will stop shorter then a loaded one, and sometimes even shorter then a bobtail tractor because of the added weight giving more braking force.

 

yes this applies to pickup trucks too, but in -some circumstances- not all circumstances.

if traction is maintained and no slip, no bounce... then more weight, no matter how much, takes longer to stop. but now you throw
in the variables of a chassis type (tractor trailer) then you have sprung and unsprung weight, oscillation, and 8 other new factors...etc.

 

Yep. As I remember flat spinning a bobtail Mack one time, weight loading can make a LOT of difference!

 

Comparing an unloaded 18 wheeler to a Tacoma is an apples and oranges comparison, especially when talking about slippery conditions. Road tractors have no front brakes, a bob tail rig is very hard to stop fast. An unloaded trailer is not much better. A heavy loaded trailer takes a very long time to stop. You don't always have that perfect medium.

The front brakes on passenger cars and light trucks do the vast majority of the stopping, brakes that don't even exist on big rigs. A little weight, firmly secured can provide some added traction to some trucks as far as keeping them moving. It does very little to aid braking since most is coming from the front. Too much weight especially if it isn't secure can make braking worse. Tankers with shifting liquid loads are the hardest rigs to drive on snow/ice. Hit the brakes and as the liquid shifts forward and you have problems. Accelerate and the load shifts to the rear pulling weight off the drive wheels. Some have baffles inside the tank to help prevent this, but not all.