2012 foglight anytime mod ?

Found these pics on a Tundra Forum. Looks like you also have to snip off a little from one of the three metal tabs to make the H9 bulb fit the H11 housing. Several guys did this to their Tundra fog lights with no ill effects. I’m going to try it this weekend if I can find the bulbs at a local parts store.

 

Anyone know how to do this on a 2013 the spots are blank in the little side box and any open ones are the same in the main box. Thanks to anyone who has the information

 

I think this an issue of trim level and/or options. My 2013 Baja, non-towing package has the wiring in the sub panel. That said, I have seen threads elsewhere that recommend using an add-a-circuit in the tail light fuse slot. This provides ignition-only power when the tail lights are on. That would mean you could use your fog lights anytime you had the running lights on (just running lights, or headlights too). If you want them to work even without the running lights on, I suppose you could pick another fuse to tap. Just make sure to stay away from anything having to do with the emissions system or you might get the lights turning on by themselves when the truck is parked. Also, I’ve heard, but can’t confirm that using the fuel pump circuit is a bad idea.

$8 Nilight GA0007 1 2Pin Way 16AWG Waterproof Wire 1.5mm Series Terminal Connector-5 Pack,2 Years Warranty

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I have the tow backage and the relay for trailer control is dead but has a relay in it. No power when on or off. One says c/opn but found out it has to do with fuel so left that one alone. Ill grab a add a circuit at work already have a inline fuse holder.

 

Well the only fuses that uave no power when off are the headlight fuses, a/c and a sta. Fuse. Tried the a/c it works but only if I turn the ac on. Dont want to jump into a headlight circuit would defeat the purpose. Looks like I need to start finding a wire into the harness at the fuse box to tap into. Anyone done this to a 13 yet that has successfully done it??

 

I tapped into the green wire as shown on the first page of this thread. Ran a jumper to the fog relay. I didn't have anything to tap into in the small box, so I had to run a wire between the two. The only downside is turning the lights off does not turn the fogs off. They're on when the key is on, so if I forget to turn them off, they will come on when I get in the truck next. I'd rather not be running them during the day. At least the key off turns them off and they don't come on by themselves like some of the other options.

 

I did the mod over the weekend, choosing to go with the simple green circle jumper method within the subpanel box. Works perfect.

I also did the H11 to H9 conversion, which took about 20 minutes. I used standard Sylvania H9 bulbs, and my fogs are MUCH brighter now. They make a SilverStar version, which I guess would be even brighter, but the standard bulbs were cheap and available off-the-shelf at the local parts store.

 

my small box on the 2014 looks identical to this picture, except the two relays vac spots next or right of the existing blue relays have no wiring pins in the terminals ( no hot pins all unwired from the factory). Need a switched power spot to pick up from.

 

I didn't have power to the seat heaters... in other words no green wire to swap. I also didn't want to drill holes into the sub fuse box nor the main. And... I didn't want to bend (possibly break off) that relay connector.

What I don't have a problem with is cutting wires. So... long story short, I cut the red/black wire, sealed the end going back into the harness, connected another wire to the one running up to the relay and ran it out the bottom of the sub fuse box, then up the wiring harness into the main. Once there, I found an open slot in the middle for the power. 15amp fuse was also wired in.

Pros: No bending, drilling.
Cons: Fog lights can be turned on with or without ignition power. So it's possible to accidently leave them on. (Fortunately... that will never happen in my world... OCD takes over)

 

Sub

 

Sub

 

What made you choose 15 amps? Are you running stock bulbs?

 

Super-easy mod, especially on a 2012. Thanks!

 

Hey TacoTronics... I didn't see your question until today. Two reasons for the 15amp fuse. 1) Yes... stock bulbs, 2) That was all I had in my tool box at the time.

 

Here is a pic of mine itsit's a '13 i wanted to run it all the same small box but the 2 spots that was previously posted circled in green I don't know if that will work. The lower right spot there's nothing there and the top spot I have another relay. Anyone know what the top blue relay is?

 

So I did it this way. and now my instrument panels wont work along with my tailights. What did I do wrong

 

Sub'd.

 

subd

 

I did it this way on my wife's 2014 TRD sport, I used a small eye glass screw driver and pushed the inside metal of the female connectors outwards giving the plastic tab holding it in place more room to release the female connectors.
Bending the plastic tab out of the way was close to impossible for me.

The plastic tab hooks/catches on to the flares of the female connectors so if when I pushed them away from the middle, they slid right out for me.

 

Im about to do the same mod on my 2014. I got the in fuse wire from radio shack. $5. Bit I don't know which fuse to get cuz there are several when I was looking through radio shack parts. I also don't know what type of wire connectors to use. Can anyone suggest?