Denso Spark Plug

after 20 years of turning wrenches, i have to agree with the no anti seize, instead a bit of axle grease, dielectric grease or Vaseline is preferred. Anti seize does not burn in the combustion chamber so any excess will end up as a sticky residue, as opposed to the greases, once they get hot the excess will liquefy and end up in the oil. not to mention, anti seize does not hold torque numbers well.

it is kind like silicone, cheap way to try and fix something instead of doing it right.

if it is water and rust getting in the holes and sticking the plugs, use dielectric grease on the coils, especially at the sealing gasket. it will help keep the water out and make it easier to remove the coil.

hope this helps

 

@Gixerkiller
20 years? You youngster, you. 35+ years wrenching here; have always used anti-seize with none of the problems you mentioned. You're not supposed to put that much anti-seize. If you are gonna use any other lubricant, make sure it is rated for the temperature it is going to face.

 

Maybe a youngster, but, the amount of stuff I have done makes it way more than 20 years, majority of mechanics never work on jets, do R&D for manufacturers, run race teams or things like that.

you are right that only a smidge of anti seize should be used.......how much is that exactly? I have found that it is better to tell people don't do that than to try and explain the intricate dance that we do to keep things running.

I have also found that telling people to follow the manufacturers requirements/recommendations avoids any messy legal crap or blown out arguments.

It just like that stuff Prussian blue for valve seat checks, just slight dab is all you need, I've seen "mechanics" coat the valves in this............

you know, the layman needs to be treated almost like a baby these days. most can't even tell you where the spare tire is.

(try the grease thing, does the same without the silvery residue all over your face,arms,hair,interior....)

Like is said in my newbie post....I know everything about fixing stuff, which means I know nothing at all.

 

@Gixerkiller
Well said. Many DIY'ers should not be working on their cars. Have you seen how many have drained the ATF instead of the motor oil?! Then added 5 fresh quarts of motor oil?! I'm sure they will never make that mistake again, but come on, pay attention to what you are doing.

 

I had one guy come in with a smoking issue and power loss, it was an Acura Integra, to make a long story short, every time he filled the fuel tank he put in a quart of oil, because someone told him that is what you do.......SO, the car had something like 30 or 40 qts of oil in it, tyres at 80lbs and huge oil leaks.......

a little more prying and the info to put oil in the car and inflate the tyres at every fill up came from his nephew who was in school to become an ASE certified mechanic........

UTI, WYOTECH, MMI, an the like are killing the industry. I actually met a "kid" (he was 23) who wore am "master" certified patch on his arm.

I asked him about it....he said he had been working on cars for 3 years and had just past his master test.......3 years and your a master? of what? reading books? I would love to see this kid in action on a Toyota Supra 1UZ with the stage 3 turbo kits.........kid would probably s**t himself.

20 years and I'm thought of as a "B" level.......

 

I was always using anti seize on my DENSO and NGK plugs, but now im not going to because the manufacturer says not necessary. although I never had any issues using anti seize on my trucks.

 

I’m due for the Spark Plug Maintenance. have a 2006 V6 DCLB
Owner’s Manuel recommends:
IGR-FE (V6): K20HR-U11 (Denso Copper Made)

What is confusing is I have seen owners using

$48 SK20HR11 ---- IRIDIUM PLATINUM power pack Spark Plugs -- # 3421 ----- 6 PCS NEW

SK20HR11 (Denso Iridium Made) on there V6 Models where our Manuel’s recommended it for 2TR-FE (4 Cylinder)

I’m thinking to just go what the recommendations is for my vehicle at this time unless someone can confirm the Iridium for the 4 cylinder engine is better?

Thanks again

 

Stick with the K20HR-U11
The 1GR isn’t a waste spark ignition.
The plugs last a long time. In my experience a lot longer than 30k.

 

Thank you for the feedback. My local Toyota Dealership has the K20HR-U11 for a very reasonable price. I’ll purchase them right now.

** BTW I didn’t know that if you select “pickup at your local Dealership” you always get the Discounted Price.

 

I have a 2014 with the V6 and went with the recommended copper spark plugs and change them every 30,000 miles. Denso's website says you can use their copper and Iridium plugs and NGK says copper, Iridium and Ruthenium plugs. I'm going to stick with what Toyota specs out.

 

Last set of Denso Iridiums on my 09 after 95k still running fine but just changed out. I do use anti seize and they were hard to remove out of a cold engine. I only lightly coat the lower 1/2 inch and then they go in smoothly. Without it removing may have been an issue. Up to you all to decide but that is its purpose.

 

Is there no love for NGK? At 30,000 miles, the stock plugs were replaced...

At around 90,000 miles (60,000 miles later), Jason replaced the plugs again (all NGK).

Now at nearly 135,000 miles (45,000 miles later), a small oil leak has appeared from the passenger side valve cover gasket. An optimal time to replace the plugs when Jason replaces the cover gaskets!

Any wisdom on best plugs for the 4.0 V6. I am happy to stay with NGK.

 

I run the Denso Iridium’s in my right bank and the recommended NGK-R’s in my left bank gapped at .041. I have a 1gr and she purrs. Never heard such a nice machine. I’ve pulled plugs and pulled plugs experimenting and what always stuck in my head is off the factory floor 1 side is NGK and the other Denso. My truck should be illegal for the purr it makes at 135k.

 

Okay what site is this that I can order from and pick up locally. My local dealer quoted me $87.00 for a serpentine belt. To add insult to injury it is 40 minutes to the dealer.

 

While I was employed at the local Telephone company, we had a product that was used on the installation of power connections in the Central Office.
The product was called NoOx and the instructions said, "apply so you can feel it but not see it".
Thats the process I use and no issues with Anti Seize or Dielectric.

TOMB

 

^+1^ Never understood this either: you go through all the risk of of snapping off aged electrical connector tabs, frozen bolts in the valve covers, snapping a plastic connection on some hose you move aside, skinned knuckles on brackets, not to mention a spark plug frozen in the head that takes the threads with it when you remove it, only to put the same plug back in and stress everything a second time a few more miles down the road: ...If they were $25 apiece maybe, but $7 each? Please.

...and if the choice is between Denso and any other brand: flip a coin and pick Denso no matter how it lands... even if you're just buying some fuses or wiper-blades.

 

Denso 4704 all day long. I replaced them on my Tacoma & got well over 100k after I sold it.
Checked them at 50k, gap never moved and plugs were in excellent condition.

My vote are for the Denso 4704s

 

The plugs from my father’s ‘09 at (don’t judge!) 171,000 kms.