DFW BS Thread : ********NEW MEET!! CHECK POST #1*******

I have a ‘14, but also had the avid and vailence bar. Shouldn’t be a problem.

 

I'll be doing the same thing you are as soon as my truck is out of the body shop next week. I'm down to assist/supervise.

 

Sending PM

 

You can easily handle all that stuff if you have a day or two to learn the ropes with the install or have a buddy who has done it before. When doing brake lines, I strongly encourage you to get the brake line wrenches that have the very tight tolerancing (I forget the official name) in size 10. If you use a regular wrench, you will likely strip out the stock hosing which can make the job very difficult. Another thing, I would over the span of the rest of the week spray ALL THE AREAS that are getting wrenched on with liquid wrench or PB blaster. The longer this stuff sits, the better it works and another pass a day or so later after the first spray helps too. On the brake lines, I did three days of spraying on them as from the factory they are pretty tight and need a good amount of loosening to get them off.

As far as the lighting is concerned, many of the lights come with a single line diagram. These diagrams are pretty self explanatory most of the time with the positive/negative leads and if there are any components like a switch, relay, and or fuse in the circuit path. Worst case, you hook up the wiring the opposite way and blow the 15-30 amp fuse in the wiring harness and then have to buy a back up at advanced auto.

Unfortunately I am already out of the area and back home for now as Austin might be calling me soon...but feel free to send me a PDF/link to your instructions for the wiring and I can decipher it if you cant.

The first real project I did on my truck was installing coilovers which had me really nervous because I didn't know jack about the truck. After you familiarize yourself with some of the components, you will realize how easy they designed the Tacoma to be worked on by the common man. Never hurts to have a teacher along with ya, but wrenching on it instead of paying someone will give you excellent experience should a situation arise where you have to deal with swapping out a part or two on the trail or on the road.

 

Get a set of flare nut/line wrenches and a brake bleeding tool at Harbor Freight. Brake lines should be easy to replace. But you'll just have to bleed a lot of air from the lines.
To use the brake bleeder tool, just loosen the bleeding nipple on the caliper, put the hose over the nipple and connect to the plastic jar with a little brake fluid in it. Connect another hose from the jar to the gun and just start squeezing the trigger. Keep squeezing until you get no more air bubbles and its just pulling fluid. Then, tighten the nipple. Keep the master cylinder topped up as you get the air out of the lines.

 

I need to acquire those two tools there....

 

I guess I should start looking for the nipple and the master cylinder. I do know where the caliper is


That job I was quoted 1.5 hrs btw

 

Brake bleeder should be on the backside of the caliper. There may be a small rubber dust cap on it.
Master cylinder is under the hood near driver side and has the brake fluid reservoir. Keep the fluid level above the lower line to be sure you don't suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and start drawing air in.

 

Do you know if the wheelers’ 2” AAL goes at the bottom? Depending on length, it might need to be put in the middle.

Edit: by bottom I mean just above overload

 

I got the Wheelers AAL and put it above the flat overload leaf, but under the 3 curved factory leaf springs.

 

No twisting or breaking this time? What brand was it that broke?

 

The first AAL set i put in was from Toytec. This time I went with Wheelers.

 

Yeah stuff going on right now.

 

Dammit Juan I need to know by Friday

 

Get speed bleeders and turn it into a one man job. I'm happy to help with all but the light since I hate electrical.

Brake lines, AAL, Ubolt flip are all simple installs with hand tools.

 

I’ve passed

 

My condolences

 

I plan on doing this soon, so if I only do the rear do I still need to bleed the front as well?

 

Should be fine as long as you keep the master cylinder topped up and no additional air comes in from the reservoir when bleeding the rear. If the pedal feels spongy afterward, then maybe check the front.

 

@gulzeb asked and I am willing to host another Mod Day this Saturday. He needs stuff done, there's a slight chance my truck will be back and I need help putting it back together. I'm sure some others have some things they'd like done or would like to just watch and learn.