MartinDWhite 2004 DoubleCab 4x4 TRD build

Passion for cars and modifications has defined my life for many years. The current obsession is a 2004 black double cab 4x4 TRD tacoma. Bought used with 160k miles and totally stock.

Here is how it looked at purchase


Here is how it looked last year.



Here is how it looked a while ago. It has more light and some color now.


Here are the list of changes so far (I will add a post for each change)

1 - Some Color - orange grill, orange accents on bars and roof.
2 - Deck lid mod
3 - Grey wire mod
4 - Bed cover (usable prototype in wood) (replaced with aluminum version)
5 - HiLift jack mounts in bed
6 - power tailgate lock
7 - Front Receiver (removed in favor of plate bumper)
8 - Warn M8000S Winch
9 - Relentless Fabrication Rock Sliders (DIY kit)
10 - Blue tooth audio input to factory radio
11 - Relentless Fabrication Front Bumper
12 - Relentless Fabrication Rear Bumper
13 - Tundra Front Brake Upgrade
14 - ARB compressor
15 - Custom Built full extension bed slide
16 - CVT Mt Shasta Roof Top Tent
17 - ARB 37QT Fridge (in back seat or on bed slide).
18 - OME suspension with 881 front spring and dakar rear springs (with extra leaf). (removed 882 front springs because of CV axle wear)
19 - CVT 55" Awning.
20 -

$67 Uniden PRO520Xl Pro Series 40-Channel CB Radio. Compact Design. ANL Switch and PA/CB Switch. 7 Watts of Audio Output and Instant Emergency Channel 9. - Black

Uniden PRO520Xl 7W 40-Channel Compact CB Radio
21 - FireStik FL4-R Four Foot FireFly antenna on Custom hood mount
22 - 3/16 steel skid plate
23 - On board water/shower system based on 4" PVC and air compressor with venturi vacuum pump to fill.
24 - BFG KO2 265/75R16 with 0.75 BORA wheel spacers to clear frame rub on full up travel of front suspension.
25 - Steering wheel spot weld mod
26 - Half height bed cover with 80/20 strut attachment rails.
27 - Full boxing of rear frame. Frame stiffening gussets in the rear.
28 - Spare tire mount extensions to fit larger tires. added cross member to prevent spare tire sway.
29 - Pinch weld mod to clear tires.
30 - Reinforced mounting points on front bumper.

Changes in the works.

1 - Flat bed !!! Aussie style canopy on the back.


I will creates posts below with more details of each change.

 

HiLift Jack Mounts

Some 1/8" thick 2" wide steel bar got cut to about 8 inches long and bent in to an U with a long and a short side.
Some holes got drilled in it and it looked like this

Note to get the 1/2 bolt in the hole for it needed to be drilled at an angle.

The bolts were welded in place. The sleeve on the other side of the bolt was just to hold it in place while welding.




I turned a delrin bushing on my lathe to press fit on to each bolt to hold the jack out from the bed rail slightly.
The bracket is held on by a carriage bolt on the top and two screws on the bottom back.
The bottom screws are only accessible through hols on the front of the bracket that are cover when the jack is on the bracket. This prevents theft by removing the bracket.
The rear 1/2 bolt for the jack has a 9/32 hole to allow a 1/4 inch lock to go on.


And here it is all mounted with the jack.


It seems to hold very well and the bed cover I made will still fit on without any interference.

 

Just ordered a Relentless Fab front bumper....such a long wait.

 

So the handle of the jack was rattling around and I didn't like it. I fabricated up a little delrin plug and block that bolts to the jack and goes in the end of the handle to keep it from rattling. Seems to work well so far. Also keeps the handle from flopping around. A 1/2" carriage bolt holds the block/plug to the jack. It stays on the jack when unbolted and allows the handle to be used to carry the jack also.

 

And also ordered some Relentless Fab DIY rock sliders and tailgate reinforcement....

 

Hitches hanging out the back of a truck bother me, because it gets hung on hills and people hit there shins on them and it HURTS. I hate that, so......I fabricated up this mount to hold the hitch in the bed when it is not in use.

Same angle from an old bed frame, some flat bar from the scrap pile, a 1/2" bolt, and a wing nut, all welded together and this is the result without paint. There are 2 mounting holes below the angle also.


With some paint and mounted in the bed with the hitch on it.


No more hurt shins or getting hung on bumps.

 

Built a front hitch.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/built-a-front-hitch-over-the-weekend.440123/

 

Relentless fabrication DIY rocksliders got welded and put on before ATR. So glad they were on there. pictures of build process soon.

 

Just got notification that the front and rear bumpers from Relentless are done and shipping.

 

Just got a visit from the delivery man. One front, and one rear, relentless fabrication bumpers. Loaded in the truck they will be mounted on. So excited to finish work today and get started on these.

 

Bumper progress was made last night.

 

Tundra brake upgrade complete.

Here are a few progress photos including the change made to the bolt. Just the very end of the bolt needs to be drilled out and clearanced for the nipple in the new calipers. It looks like only about 0.020 needs to be removed from the end of the bolt, but I chucked the bolt up in the lathe and did a 45 degree cut up to the threads to make sure it cleared the nipple in the bottom of the hole on the new caliper.

They were, of course, painted orange before getting installed.

 

Factory hitch got taken off last night. Frame rails were cleaned and painted. New rear should go on tonight....if it all goes according to plan...Murphy needs to be kept at bay and all.






...and a gratuitous picture of the painted front bumper just hanging out waiting (not so patiently) to be put on.

 

Just keep in mind when installing the bumpers front and rear they're designed to be spaced down as necessary for proper fender(and tailgate) clearance and everything should go smoothly. If the left/right gap of the rear is a little off loosening the bed bolts and giving it a nudge is sometimes necessary(I've only needed to twice on installs, but it is possible for bed shift)

 

Was this straight forward? As far as taking off the old rotors & calipers, then reinstalling the new parts. Which brands did you go with at O'Reilly's, and what's the Wheelers place? I'd like to do this before gun season opens.

Thanks for your help,
Malcolm

 

It is very straight forward. Remove old parts and bolt on new parts. No cutting was required with "WE" casting calipers. The dust shield needed to be bent back about 1/4 inch where it rubbed the rotor.

I used "Best Brake" calipers and pads, and Bosch rotors. I think the calipers are all rebuilt now, so they should all be about the same. I didn't sweat over the different brands. A quick internet search showed how to put on the little spring wires to hold the pads. Super easy. If you are on the fence and you need new brakes, JUST DO IT!

 

Many thanks!

-Malcolm

 

Rear bumper installed. Lights and plate need to be mounted tonight....hopefully.

Because I have a mental block with asking for help, here is how to install an 80 lb bumper by yourself.




Use a "sky hook"!

The left right alignment is off by about 1/4 inch. If this were a show truck I would, as relentless suggested, loosen the bed and center it up....but this is a play truck that goes in the woods. So......it's good enough for the people I hang out with. More gratuitous pictures will be posted with the bumper in the woods soon.

 

Looking good in here! Going to do anything with the suspension?