OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

What gear oil are you guys running in your front diff?

Weight & Brand.

 

Actually both sides of the differential itself have the same needle bearing from the factory. I have been replacing both with the ECGS bushing after seeing some hammering-type marks on the RH stub shaft of mine where it contacts the factory needle bearing. I suspected these marks were from initiating the 4lo TRAC mod where torque is transferred through the differential as the brakes are applied during the TRAC action.

My later truck has ATRAC and it works the same way in principal as TRAC but with more aggressive braking and activated at slower wheel spin. So decided to do it too. I was in the process of pulling things apart to do the bushing and suddenly revised the plan to include an elocker.

While the differential was removed I put the second bushing on the RH side where the stub shaft enters the differential. The ECGS bushing works well on the RH side as well but on the second truck I trimmed its length a small amount because the factory casting where the bearing/bushing rides is a bit shallower on that side.

The entire difference is the LH side has the CV shaft entering directly into the bearing/bushing and the RH does not. On the RH a stub shaft that is part of the inner ADD fits into the differential. But it is on the opposite (outside) end of the long ADD tube where the ball bearing lives. The RH CV shaft is identical to the LH but instead of entering the differential directly it enters the ADD tube.

 

I did the valvoline 85/140 I think it was. Wal mart, in an oversized caprisun looking squeeze bag that made filling super easy, no pump needed.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0oXH8weajAXyVeAYVhpZEwH5g

How bad is that? I get the new ecgs bushing tomorrow, I'm just curious how long I've let this go. To me that's a horrifying amount of play, but I don't have any experience or reference there.

 

Thanks for the reply. You’ll be glad you got the OEM Spider Bearing out & installed the ECGS Bushing. I did mine a few years back and am happy it’s done.

 

Hi all. I've got some symptoms that might be this needle bearing issue, but I'm not sure. I get a hum and vibration in the floor at about 30 mph and again (more intense) at 60 mph. It seems to be worse in a right turn, but I also get it going straight. 140,000 on the truck and no lift. I'm not sure because when I switch to 4X4, the hum and vibration are still there. Has anyone else had this issue where 4X4 does NOT clear it up? I just replaced both front wheel bearings with no improvement. I felt the cv axle where it goes into the diff and it is definitely loose. Here's a video of that cv axle input. Thanks!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rL1yo78Hzgo

 

For the needle bearing it’s an easy test. Lie down under the truck by the driver side front wheel, grab the axle right by where it goes into the front differential and shake it. If it’s moving around, no bueno. After I replaced my needle bearing with the ecgs I have zero slop. Not even a faint click. See what others have to say but got me that’s the easy test.

 

I have the ECGS bearing removal tool used once. I'll include the piece of PVC that worked perfect for installing the oil seal.

 

Hi all, 224000 miles on my 2006 tacoma 4c4 and mine just went on driver side. noticed it getting worse and just got under the truck. lots of play. no leaking though.

i can hear the vibration when i rotate the tires and feel it in the cv where it inputs into the diff.

ive ordered all the parts to fix, here is my question:

how long have u guys driven on this and has anyone had a major catastrophic failure or caused a knock on from driving like this. will putting on an extra 5000 miles like this destroy anything? my parts wont arrive for 2 weeks. i drive alot.

 

i dropped my front diff fluid. there was zero evidence of bearing material.

after that i saw a video of installing the replacement bushing and i see that the bearing may not have direct access to the diff.

im awaiting my parts, and i have to go north and drill some wells so ill be risking putting on another 2000klm like this.

for the benefit of those who may be driving with the same humming i will come back and advise if i get stranded due to driving like this

 

I drove at least that many before installing the ECGS bushing (trying to research and trace the cause) once the whining/vibration started. I would guess you're good esp if your current bushing is good. I guess you could always pull the CV and peek in there to take a look. But outside the vibration I think you'll be fine.

 

in my case i still have the bearing. ill report back

 

Is there a "ECGS bushing removal tool share" thread on this forum? Search brought me here.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/whoring-out-ecgs-bushing-tool.630638/page-14

 

Great information in this forum!

I took my ‘10 Tacoma to the local Toyota dealership for a frame replacement. I get a call once they’re done that there is a sound coming from the drivers side. I authorized them to swap the wheel bearing but it didn’t fix the issue. They started quoting me for a used differential. I said no thanks, I’ll get a second opinion. And here we are, turns out a $60 part should fix this roaring problem. Gonna attempt this once the parts are in. Thanks for the info folks!

 

I am having front diff vibrations very recently...
I am running a 3in Elka lift. I have the diff drop. I never had any vibrations until recently.


These are the symptoms:

• Vibrations when in 4HI on the highway accelerating passed 80km/h.
• Vibrations are steady when pressing the gas maintaining a speed of 120km/h.
• Vibrations reduce to almost zero when I let off the gas.
• The vibrations are felt in the gas pedal, gear shifter (manual), and in the seats.
• All tires have been rebalanced after feeling the vibrations, but obviously not the problem.

This is what has happened to the truck recently:

• I started having vibrations when in 4HI on the highway.
• I look under the truck and realize my newly installed (4,000km) driver axel outer boot is freshly torn. Axel is still strong.
• I seem to have a leak from the front diff as well.
• I bring it to shop I got the new axel from and they warrantee the axel but I got them to install it this time. (too cold for me to do it outside at -25°C)
• The shop replaced the axel, axel seal (the front diff was leaking like a sieve and seal was destroyed), installed the ECGS, and topped up the diff oil.
• The shop also replaced driver side UCA ball joint (SPC), passenger side LCA ball joint (Moog).
• Alignment was done.
• I drove the truck right after all new parts are installed but STILL have the vibrations.
• The shop took the truck back and looked over everything, but nothing seems off. They checked the u-joints as well.

ANY FIXES?!

 

Front driveshaft?
Wheel bearing?

 

Passenger is wheel baring was also replaced then (forgot to note that).
Front drive shaft is always spinning so I would feel it in 2HI as well. Same with the front axels.

It is just so strange that it vibrates in 4HI above 80km/h when accelerating only. So only when a load is applied to a certain part.

 

The front driveshaft should NOT spin in 2WD.
If it does, the A.D.D. or Transfer case is locked. Which it shouldn’t be in 2WD.

The front axles do turn in 2WD.

 

Can confirm folks, the ECGS bushing fixed my issue. One less thing to worry about!

 

Glad to hear the bushing fixed the drivers side sound issue. I enjoy reading posts people make on here stating that they were able to resolve mechanical issues they were having with the help of the forum. I personally know what it feels like and enjoy reading about others getting to enjoy the same satisfaction I had.