1st Time Rebuild of W59 Tranny - Do I Need A New Countershaft?

Okay I'm guessing this is a stupid question, but the countershaft and gear cluster looks beautiful, that is aside from this situation where the center bearing goes. I'm out another $150 for a new countershaft, which I just ordered...but could I get away with using this? The more I think about it, the stupider a question it seems....

 

.Welcome to the forum!!

First it is your job Truck etc.If someone was rebuilding this for you and your paying X $$$amount would you say not a problem.

To me the $150.00 is well worth having to not do the whole job again.

Going just by the picture just how bad does it feel ?

Have you measured the clearance between the journal and the bearing ID??

Best of luck no matter which way you decide

 

Just for piece of mind.., the 150 would be well spent in my eyes

 

Thank you, Empty_Lord and Wyoming09!

I have not done any measuring. I did feel the rollers on that bearing and there's sharp edges on that one side of them that is not on the new bearing. Curious as to how this sort of uneven wear happens - seems strange.

Thanks, too, by the way, for all your prior posts on here that I read before tackling this &(^@*! job. Hugely helpful.

 

Welcome aboard new member

 

Just curious how bad was the bearing when things were pulled apart ??

 

Bearing seemed fine except for the sharp edge on the more-worn side of things.

Funny thing is, running through the checklists, I diagnosed a bad input shaft bearing. (Clacking in N-1-2-3 (4&5 hard to say), no clacking in N with clutch depressed.) Thought maybe I'd just open it up and replace that big input shaft bearing....but those bearings seem okay (replacing anyway). This spot that I photographed is the only thing so far that doesn't look good as new, and I gather from a gearcruncher post that a bad countershaft bearing would have matched my symptoms. So I sure hope I wind up with the problem fixed when I get this back together, and soon, cuz I need the truck to get other &$^@ done.

Is it ever the case that old bearings that seem good actually aren't? I've got 189k on it.

Replaced the main seal (was fine) and the clutch (also fine, incredibly - oh well - more $$$ out the window). Hoping to notice improvement where I'd noticed no problem. Actually, hoping I didn't mess things up.

 

Hi ....Can you share more pictures of the job? My W59 Transmission have same symptoms.Thanks in advance.

 

I wouldn't but if you did I'd peen all around that and use sleave retainer.

 

HELP! I finally got this back together, almost, to find that when I bolted on the main housing, the front bearings seemed to stick out more than when I took it apart. Lo and behold, when I bolted down the front bearing retainer over this, I could not spin the input shaft. When I loosened the retainer bolts, I could spin it again. ....how in the world can this stick out farther now than before? It is the same input shaft. I did not dismantle the gears/synchros on the mainshaft, so that has stayed the same. Something must be causing the input shaft to stick out farther - what the heck? I'd like to jump up and down and scream.

 

Jump up and down and scream better then throwing the transmission through the wall .

Going only by the picture it looks like the whole shaft is to far front.

It is the correct bearing it matches with the one you removed ??

Parts any more you need to compare old and new .

 

My input shaft bearing (i think) is starting to whine very slightly (N, 1, 2, 3, 5). Diagnosed it from a variety of posts and you tube videos. Curious to that you pulled things apart and it wasnt the input shaft bearing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WfPnb7MUCM&list=WL&index=5&t=0s

 

Yes. It is the exact same.

UPDATE: I thought well maybe it's the synchro just needs to spin around and slide into place...so I did that-turned the input shaft a bunch while pressing a bit...and shazamm it moved back and perfectly into place according to the housing. I then made the mistake of moving the shifter thing, thinking it would move right back into that central neutral spot. Now it doesn't want to move back, it seems stuck in place. Is it? Or does it just require a *$&%load of leverage that the shift columns provide? Did I screw the whole thing up?
UPDATE # 2 : the shifter thing would not move back into place because the tool I placed in there was hitting the housing below the opening there, and so couldn't move forward -- I lifted that tool up and then pushed and clickety click click it all works fine. What a relief but Holy moly this thing is going to drive me to drinking...more.

 

Now your experienced Can I send you some Transmissions??

Good Luck hang in there !!

 

So.... after 8 million hours of grimy sweaty labor and head scratching internet searches and about $550 in parts, I am finally done! Road tested her about 30 minutes ago. It all works! Went for a 15 mile mostly-slow tour of the farmlands and neighborhoods. I like the new clutch (aisin), and no click clack clack from the tranny, and she shifts smoothly. I was a little worried in the beginning couple of miles as moving between gears wasn't quite as smooth as before, but hoped that was simply before the gears got back to fully oiled up after sitting dry for 4 weeks, and knock on wood that seemed to play out fine. In my neck of the woods here where they bill at $120/hr, I think the job with parts would have run about 2500 to 3000? If I were to bill myself at that rate, the labor would be around $700,000 LOL. Oh momma. Thank you all for your help.