Dual USB Outlet (Backseat\Cup Holder) Installation

Dual USB Outlet (Backseat) Installation


Here is my write up on installing a dual USB outlet for backseat passengers. I used the top of the cup holder in the center console for backseat accessibility. There is an “outlet” size space between the cup holders which if done right can have a clean, factory look and feel.





I chose the top of the cup holder where the “Lid Only Water Bottle” warning is. I purposely got a waterproof outlet, which adds the rubber cover to protect in the event of a water bottle spill since I’ll be removing the Toyota factory “No open water bottles” warning, which means my passengers will need to be smarter than a 5th grader…..risky, I know…..I also remove the labels on all my mattresses, dry cleaning only labels on my clothes….and have been known to run with scissors…J

Note: I chose this location versus the backside to eliminate the risk of people bending or breaking off a cord connector with their knee or something, while entering or exiting the vehicle.

….let’s get to it…

Waiver: I’m not an electrician, handyman or technical writer…and only slightly mechanically inclined. That is good news for those of you who are novices like myself to know that anyone can do this, but may be annoying & too detailed for the experts. That said, I’m sure there may be some steps I took or some technical terminology that I don’t use correctly. Please don’t make a federal case of it. Enter at your own risk.

I did this on my 2015 (G2) Tacoma DCSB, so if you have another model year variations maybe necessary.

Tools/Parts:


Drill

1 inch hole drill bit

Cable ties for wire management

Waterproof Dual USB Outlet

(This is the one I used. It was $13 on Amazon and comes with a rubber cover and blue LED, which is a nice effect and aides with visibility at night)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R5O70M0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00


Add-a-fuse adaptor w/fuse

$9 Nilight 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse Tap Adapter Mini Atm Apm Blade Fuse Holder-10 Pack, 2 Years Warranty

http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-B...pebp=1446929572485&perid=0TT1BHAQSH8VC6NQDQTK



Approx. 10 ft of electrical wire gauged proportionate to the amps. I think I used 10 gauge, which is probably overkill.

2 female wire connectors & 1 ground connector (optional)


Wire cutters/crimper

Socket wrench & extension w/10 mm socket

Eye protection and work gloves for your safety…J jk


Step 1 – Drilling the placement hole in the cup holder.

I used a 1” hole drill bit. IMPORTANT: The hole size was recommended on the outlet packaging relative to the socket diameter. The socket is a little wider in diameter which requires you to have to shave the inside diameter of the hole a little & makes for a snug fit of the outlet. It is critical for a snug fit that your initial hole size is smaller ID, so depending on the size of your outlet make accommodations for that.

I outlined the outlet with a pencil to ensure the placement was center and as a boundary line so that I didn’t accidentally drill into the cup holders or breach the back of the console while drilling.

Drill approx. 1” hole into the space you outlined. There is a plastic washer included with the outlet, but after inserting the outlet it was going to be difficult and unnecessary to put the washer on inside the bottom of the cup holder, so I didn’t use it.

Because the hole inside diameter (aka ID) is a little bit smaller than the outlet OD at first I recommend you drill the hole, then try to fit the outlet by shaving the inside of the hole a little at a time until the outlet fits snug.


Once you have the fit you want, at this point, you can remove the outlet for wire connection later in step 3.

Extra credit - I used a rubber grommet as sort of skirt around the outlet before inserting it into the hole to make it more snug and almost impossible to remove. It also made for a cleaner looking fit by hiding any drilling mistakes or rough edges on the inside of the hole. Grommet is not necessary to get a snug fit. Another more permanent option would be to use a sealant or adhesive, but I don’t recommend it, in the event you ever need to replace the outlet. If you want more info or thoughts on this let me know.




Note: I did this drilling step last, but it makes since in hindsight to do it before removing the console and running the wires. If you do it after the console is less of a stable drilling surface. Either way works. Your call.

Step 2 – Removing center console. (Not as scary as it sounds)

Note: I think there is a write up on TW for instructions for how to remove the console. Otherwise, here is a link to a video on YouTube, if it’s still up (by JMINK).



Basically all you need to do is remove the center console by unscrewing the two 10 mm bolts inside and at the bottom of the compartment with a socket wrench, extension and 10mm socket.




Once the bolts are unscrewed, unscrew the shifter to provide clearance to remove the console enough to run the wires.

With the shifter removed, carefully & slowly lift up on the shiny middle section of the console around the shifter. There are clips that will detach with a little force. Be careful not to be to rough with it and break the tabs.



Remove the front cup holders at this time to expose the console canal. With some finagling the console with lift right up, but you will notice that the rest of the console seems to be one single piece. It is not necessary to remove the entire console to run the wires. With the middle panel removed the console “canal” is exposed enough to hide and run the wires to the dash from the placement hole.



Step 3 – Cutting, running & connecting wires.

You will need to cut the 10ft wire to make positive and negative wires. Positive wire was approx. 6 ft and the neg approx. 4ft. (neg can be shorter since it only needs to be grounded under the console and not run under the dash like the pos wire).

Strip and add female connectors to one end of each of the wires. This will be the connection to the outlet posts.


On the opposite end of the neg wire strip and add a ground connector (optional).

Run the appropriate length for each wire from the outlet placement location by feeding the wires from the top of the (cup holder) placement hole location down to the floor and down the length of the center console floor.


The neg wire can be grounded by unscrewing any one of a few chassis bolts available. Below is where I grounded mine.




On the opposite end of the pos wire strip and connect the add-a-fuse. Run that wire under the front cup holders and under the dash. Fish the wire to the fuse box. Be careful to make sure that the wire does not interfere or is in a place where is could get crimped and short by the steering control systems. There is also a plate which gets pretty hot near the steering column that you will won’t to avoid placing it near. I didn’t, but I recommend using cable ties.


Strip and attach the add-a-fuse to the pos wire and connect to the fuse box. You can either use an ignition switched fuse or an “always on” fuse. (Note: If you use the always on be sure to disconnect the neg battery cable for safety). I used a switch fuse to avoid battery drain from the LED, although negligible. Another option is to use a charge delay adaptor (Thx Andy Anderson), which will stay on for a small period of time and then shut off. I used the ACC fuse.





Step 4 – Console re-install & outlet placement

Test your installation then re-install the console and shifter.


Go to Disneyland…..you’re done. Your comments & input are welcome.

Peace out…

 

Awesome right up.

 

Thanks Nach!

 

Good info, nice install? I would like to do the same but my console is gray instead of black like yours. I know I can order a gray cover, is the black cover on your charger removable? I'm hoping I can remove the black cover and slip on the gray cover.

 

Parts ordered as this mod is the shiznit.

 

im debating on putting mine in the console but i have a Divider try so space is limited. I have the outlet its either going in the bed or now i seen this cupholder spot im not sure on the outside of it but on the inside between the 2 cupholders. Hmmmmm decisions decisions!?!?!?!

 

So my 12 volt outlet came with a part that you screw on to tighten it up in the hole. Does that whole rear console come off to be able to secure it underneath properly????

 

Very nice. To be done soon. Parts will be ordered

 

So I powered mine to the door locks and the blue light always stays on. If I use the truck everyday it shouldn't be a problem should it? I couldn't use the AC 7.5 slot as my add on Heated Mirrors is tapped into that

 

Yeah DR LCK 20A circuit is a constant hot.

I'm also curious why OP used a 10A fuse for a 3.1A supplying outlet. Doesn't seem good to run more than the outlet is rated to put out but I'm no electrician either lol

 

So I'm good brother even though the blue light is always on???

 

FWIW

I did an install similar, except that I ran 12g wire all the way to a fuse block for always on power


Closed


Plugged in


And the cupholder still works.

I don't put anything back there anyway except for my sunglasses. So the slight height from the 12v outlet didn't bother me.

I will say this. The location I have it in can be tightened with that plastic nut you're talking about. But it'll be somewhat difficult, because it's a tight space. So if you have big/fat hands, expect some cuts.

 

This thing is in there so tight I can't even turn it in any direction.

 

@Unchained 5150
Are you worried about a significant power draw from the blue light when you don't have the truck on? Or worried about a power loss in general from it always being on?

 

I am worried about any issue. I drive it everyday so I don't think I will have battery issues

 

Subbed.

 

So you think I'm good

 

I have a similar charging setup in my center console using

$19 Blue Sea Systems 1016 Dual USB Charger Socket, 12/24v 2.1a, Black

this plug and it's always on.

I've had it installed for about a year and had no issues with it. I usually leave a phone charger and GoPro charger cable connected.





Just be sure you run adequate wire for it, along with the appropriate fuse.

 

I think you're correct in the thinking, the fuse should pop before frying the wiring - so a proper fuse is pretty important to avoid the wire shorting out and possibly catching fire.

Though I guess that also depends on what size wire you're running..?

 

I used 12 gauge wiring and that blade fuse thing with 2 10amp fuses in it. Is that okay or am I going to have issues?? The door lock was a 20amp fuse so what'cha think peeps?