I have a 2013 Tacoma double cab and it worked well with my vehicle.I gave it 4 stars rather than 5 as:1) a couple minor changes would ease the installation process:-The connectors on the short wire are a little too large to fit through the drain hole, and they could use a smaller, and more secure connector. You may want to just clip them off and then solder them to the leads from the lock, or use butt connectors.- The directions reference a grommet in the firewall, which is hard to reach on the inside of the cab. There's a much more convenient grommet right under the driver's seat just inboard of the door, at least on my 2013 double cab model.- The directions default to the two door models and could be a little more specific to the 4 door double cab models. They do direct you to the "B" pillar and the rear drivers side door wiring, so that the tailgate only unlocks with a double click on the fob, but it's not as obvious as it could be.2) The lock tested well, but after closing up the cover for the tailgate I noted that the lock caused the factory latch to bind very slightly after opening I had to manually push the latch back into the closed position. I deferred fixing it for a couple days due to rain but I found that the binding was caused by excessive tightening of the mounting screw and is latch issue, not related to the lock itself, so I'd give it 4.5 stars now rather than 4 if that was an option.Unlike a few reviewers, I did not note the noise to be excessive when it locks or unlocks once the tailgate was closed up, but mine also had the black foam padding to prevent any vibration, and I took pains to avoid anything that might rattle inside the tailgate.I also do not feel that having only 1 bolt to secure it was an issue as it butts up against the end of the factory latch and can't rotate. Blue Locktite should keep the mounting screw from coming loose.Installation, and additions to the instructions:The installation took just under two hours, but I'm meticulous and soldered the connection between lock and wire, given the difficulty that would be encountered unbuttoning the tail gate cover with the tail gate closed in order to get at the lock if it ever fails to unlock. You could do it in an hour, if you've done one before and knew exactly what you were doing, but 2 hours is a more realistic estimate.The instructions are not bad, but they are a little generic and could benefit from some additional detail as well as some pictures.Step 1 is to remove the screws securing the tailgate cover and that is straight forward with a T-30 bit.Step 2 asks you to remove the driver's side lock rod end from the lock, but there is no need as you can just slip the middle of the rod out of the plastic guide in the middle of the rod and get enough room to get a 10mm socket on head of the driver's side mounting bolt. As noted above snugging this screw to normal/reasonable torque levels caused the latch to bind. Consequently, I tightened it to just short of the point where it starts to bind the latch and then secured the screw to the lock mounting plate with 5 minute epoxy around the base of the screw. It is still snug but allow the lock to could pivot slightly. However, it can't pivot enough in one direction to allow the latch to open or pivot enough in the other direction to impact the lock handle and prevent it from locking, so it's a non-problem. Since the screw can't vibrate loose, it's also a stable condition.Similarly in steps 3 & 4 you can install the lock with the rod end still in place. Slip the lock rod back into the guide when you are done.Step 5 involves routing the wiring out of the tailgate. As noted above, the bullet connectors are too large for the drain holes, and clipping them off and installing new ones, or soldering the wires is preferable (in my opinion) to bending metal and removing paint around the drain hole. Use the center drain hole as it's already aligned with the square hole in the bed. The cable is almost too large for the drain hole as well, so use a lubricant to protect the cover on the wire. Since I clipped the connectors off, I left just enough extra wire to thread the large connector on the other end through the square hole in the center of the bed. Thus there was no need to coil the extra wire inside the tailgate. I did double the wire back over itself to keep any strain off the connections and then taped the wires to a support in the tailgate to prevent any rattling.Step 6 is routing the wire along the frame. I followed the existing wiring harness and tied the wire to that existing bundle. It gets interesting getting past the fuel tank but once past that point it's once again easy to follow. That led me to the much more convenient grommet near the driver's seat just inside the door.Step 7 talks about the grommet in the firewall, but it is very hard to access from inside the cab, and it's a few feet too far anyway, so it made a lot more sense to use the grommet that was closer to where I was going with the wire anyway. It also avoids any heat sources in the engine compartment and keeps the grommet sealed so that you are not getting any gasses or smells from the engine compartment. It's a much better location.Unwrap the tape sealing the boot of the grommet to the bundle, or very carefully cut it off so you can route the wire up inside the boot on the grommet. You can use a phillips score driver and some lubricant to gently press through the gap between boot and wiring bundle and then push the wire along side the screw driver to get it through the boot on the grommet. Once the wire is routed, you can re-wrap the junction of bundle and boot with electrical tape to keep it dust and water resistant.Step 8 deals with the final location for routing the wire and wire colors. Pay attention to 2005-2007 2 door model instructions, the 4 door model instructions, the 2008 model instructions and the post 2010 wiring colors as appropriate for your vehicle.Step 9 mentions larger blue wire taps, but my kit came with the more appreciate red wire taps used for smaller gauge wire. The instructions are non specific about what wire connects to what wire in the vehicle, so getting it right is a 50/50 proposition. I connected the green wire to the blue-red wire and the blue wire to the blue-black on my 2013 Tacoma and it resulted in proper lock function. Note that if the lock is operating out of phase (i.e locking when it should unlock and unlocking when it should lock) the instructions mention reversing the wires. The easiest place to reverse these wires is at the connection to the lock's wire leads in the tailgate, but the instructions don't specifically mention that.Step 10 again suggests coiling the excess wire, but if you've got some basic wire cutting and stripping skills, you can cut the wire to length (leaving it a few inches long for insurance, and leave that small excess in the door pillar. It's much cleaner that coiling the wire and tying it under the vehicle. All in all, I had about 8 1/2 feet of left over wire by going through the grommet under the diver's seat rather than the firewall grommet.Step 11 refers to testing the lock. Make sure it is locking and unlocking in proper sequence with the other doors, rather than in reverse. Then once you are sure it's working properly, close every thing back up.