This is a sturdy and bright short to medium range weaponlight with intuitive controls and a nice mounting system. It's main drawbacks are the long reach to the controls and lack of holster options.The Olight is one heck of a bright weaponlight. Having an output of 1200 lumens allows the user to effectively use umbrella lighting and baseboard lighting techniques to illuminate a space better than other lights with less output. These techniques allow you to point the muzzle of your firearm in a relatively safe position, better conceal your position, and prevent you from blinding yourself with splashback. Umbrella lighting is especially important if you are navigating a space where children may be present, where baseboard lighting may result in muzzling a child. The high lumen output enables this light to have a large hotspot and still generate 13,800 candela, which is enough to effectively control a threat out to a good distance by removing their visual horizon if the hotspot is placed on their face. This intensity of candela also enables this light to throw pretty far and penetrate photonic barriers, such as a lit room between dark hallways.The hotspot is large but very defined, and spreads to roughly 6' across in only 25 feet. The corona is very large, seeming to flood everything in front of the light, but does not have well defined boundaries due to how shallow the reflector is. These attributes mean that with this light, the hotspot will cover an adult's upper body, or whole body at reasonable defensive distances. This allows the user to clearly see the threat's hands while keeping the hot spot on the threat's face. The large corona enables the user to see any additional threats around the main person, as well as the general environment they're in. You're getting a lot of visual information when this light is turned on.The controls consist of a paddle on the left and right hand sides of the light. Paddles can be pressed from the side or from the rear. I wish that the paddles extended rearward a bit more, as they're a bit of a reach to get to with the trigger finger if you have one hand on the gun. In this case, pushing the fingertip forward is the only practical way to activate the light, which is good because trying to press from the side may risk a ND if your finger slips into the trigger guard. For general light control, the best and easiest method is to use the support-hand thumb to activate the light. One quick press turns the light to constant on. If you press and hold the paddle, the light will automatically switch to momentary on. I thought this would be a pain at first, but in practice the timing is great. If you press and do a quick scan, you've held the control long enough for it to turn itself off intuitively. I personally dislike strobe features on lights, since it effectively reduces visual information the user is getting by flashing on and off. For this reason, it doesn't bother me that the activation for strobe mode is one thing that is not intuitive. You have to press both the left and right side paddle simultaneously to engage strobe...which works if you pinch like you would forward on the slide for a press-check with your support hand.The mount itself has its strengths and weaknesses. It comes with different rail lugs for 1913 and glock rail cutouts. You switch them out by unscrewing two torx screws with the supplied wrench. The screws have blue loctite on the threads to prevent them from backing off from the factory. To mount the light on a rail, open the mount by flipping the QD lever, line up the rail lug, and then close the QD lever. It's extremely fast and pretty secure. I only say pretty secure, because while it does mount tight, there is slight left/right play as the left-side mounting piece pivots at the lever. I also found the light doesn't perfectly mount centered with the sights, but is slightly off to the right(slightly as in a couple inches at 15 feet...not that big a deal, but still a consideration). I'm not sure how they'd solve this, unless they used two smaller levers front and rear instead of one big one in the middle. Again though, not a really big deal.The battery compartment came stocked with two fresh batteries and a piece of plastic keeping them from connecting. When you get the light, yank the plastic and you're GTG. The battery compartment itself is quick to open and secure when closed. It doesn't seem as vulnerable to breaking as the TLR battery door is(I've gone through a couple as they break at the pivot pin eventually).The overall build quality is excellent. Everything is centered, the machining is clean, and the surface treatment is even. The light feels much more solid than I anticipated, given the light weight and small form factor. Speaking of form factor, the PL2 mounts very low on an AR rail. If you like a light at the 12 oclock, this light fits the bill nicely. My TLR1s blocked the lower 1/3 of my mkAR at 1.25x and limited how far forward I could mount it. In the same location, the PL2 was barely visible in the bottom of the sight picture. It allowed me to bump the light forward to the end of my mid-length rail without interfering with the scope at all. The only real drawback to using this light on a rifle is that it's more geared towards flood than throw(although 1200 lumens make up for this a bit), and that it doesn't have an easy lockout to prevent yourself from accidentally turning it on as your rifle's hanging about. Hopefully they'll make a version with a deeper reflector and lockout geared more towards rifles sometime in the future.The big drawback of this light isn't really its fault....holster availability. If you get a surefire or streamlight, there's a million different holster options. For this, I haven't really found anything specific to it yet. I have tossed it in my persec kydex holster made for my TLR1/m&p45 combo, and it will go in just fine, but is a little loose(smaller reflector) so it lacks the click-in retention the TLR1 has. Hopefully as this light gains popularity, more options become available. I would've liked to see olight get ahead of this problem a bit and work with some holster makers, or just punch out some cheap kydex holsters and sell them themselves.That's about it for now, I've attached pictures comparing this light to the TLR1 and TLR3 in size and mounting height on a rail. I've also attached a comparison of beams between the PL2 and a 300 lumen TLR1s. The beam shots were taken with a galaxy s6(I know.... I'm behind the times, at least it doesn't explode) at ISO400 1/90 -2.0 +/-