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InstallGear Keyless Entry System with Two 3-Button Remotes & 4 Door Lock Actuators - Central Locking System - Keyless Entry Door Lock for Car, Auto, Truck - Power Door Lock Kit

4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars 1,477 ratings

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  • EASY LOCK/UNLOCK - Swift and seamless entry into your car is made easy with the InstallGear keyless entry system, equipped with remotes and actuators.
  • TRUNK POP - Elevate your driving experience with the convenience of unlocking your car trunk remotely using our advanced keyless entry car fobs, ensuring a seamless and efficient entry into your vehicle.
  • LIGHTS FLASH - Experience added assurance with our keyless entry system as the car's lights elegantly flash each time you press the keys, providing a visual confirmation of your successful car lock or unlock.
  • TWO 3-BUTTON REMOTES - For added convenience and peace of mind, this keyless entry system includes two 3-button remotes, ensuring you have a spare in case one is misplaced.
  • This keyless entry system offers flexibility by allowing the installation of up to 4 door lock actuators. Whether you have a 2-door or 4-door vehicle, this kit ensures comprehensive security coverage.
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InstallGear Keyless Entry System with Two 3-Button Remotes & 4 Door Lock Actuators - Central Locking System - Keyless Entry Door Lock for Car, Auto, Truck - Power Door Lock Kit
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Price$35.21$25.90$25.27$32.89$16.99$29.89
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Get it as soon as Monday, Mar 18
Get it as soon as Monday, Mar 18
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Lock Feature
4.4
3.9
3.8
3.8
4.4
4.4
Easy to install
4.0
3.5
4.2
3.2
4.1
4.2
Value for money
4.4
4.1
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4.4
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Product Description

Please note: this is a very technical product. It is highly recommended that a professional with extensive knowledge in car door locks install this product!

From design, engineering and construction, this InstallGear central locking system is built not only to look good but to provide you with the ability to lock/unlock and pop your trunk via a compact remote system.

  • Lock/unlock
  • Trunk pop
  • Lights flash

  • Two 3-button remotes
  • 4 Door lock actuators
  • Control module
  • Wiring harness
  • Actuator mounting hardware

Product information

Technical Details

Additional Information

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InstallGear Keyless Entry System with Two 3-Button Remotes & 4 Door Lock Actuators - Central Locking System - Keyless Entry Door Lock for Car, Auto, Truck - Power Door Lock Kit


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Customer reviews

4.3 out of 5 stars
4.3 out of 5
1,477 global ratings

Customers say

Customers like the ease of installation, performance, quality, and value of the car alarm. They mention that the set comes complete and ready to use, and that the door lock actuators work as they should. They appreciate the solid look and feel of the remotes, and are satisfied with the range. However, some customers have issues with size and durability. Customers have mixed opinions on remotes.

AI-generated from the text of customer reviews

195 customers mention143 positive52 negative

Customers find the installation process of the car alarm to be easy. They mention that the system is simple and easy to hook up. The set comes complete and ready to use.

"This kit is easy to install and very easy to modifyI’ve simplified mines to fit in my 91 Miata..." Read more

"...For an E150 this was easy to install, but time consuming, about 5 hours by myself, easily less with any related experience...." Read more

"...The set comes complete and ready to use. The price is surprisingly low in today's world." Read more

"...] Despite the lack of information in the instructions, I managed to get this system properly installed in a base model 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500..." Read more

175 customers mention134 positive41 negative

Customers like the performance of the car alarm. They say that the door lock actuators work as they should, it's relatively easy to install, and everything went perfect. Some customers also say that it works from a surprisingly far distance.

"...Works from a surprisingly far distance and is very useful if your Miata doesn’t have a truck release button like mine..." Read more

"Installed on 2014 f150. These are powerful and work great. A bit of an install but worth it...." Read more

"Installation is easy, and it's pretty ingenious the way this works...." Read more

"...It works just fine, but you don't hold it down to work. It works immediately, and there is no light flash indication at all...." Read more

149 customers mention111 positive38 negative

Customers are generally satisfied with the quality of the car alarm. They mention that the actuators, control box, and remotes are of good quality. They also appreciate the solid look and feel of the remotes. Overall, customers are happy with the product and recommend it to others.

"...Mine is for a remote latch for hobby equipment. The set comes complete and ready to use. The price is surprisingly low in today's world." Read more

"Absolutely fantastic mod. It is such a simple mod to do and it makes the biggest difference. Anyone could do this with ease. Highly suggest." Read more

"Everything works pretty good pretty easy to hook up. This servos are pretty strong. The key fob is probably the cheapest key fob you ever saw...." Read more

"...but... The wire harness and or control unit is wired wrong: lock/unlock are backwards..." Read more

70 customers mention70 positive0 negative

Customers like the value of the car alarm. They mention that it is well worth the price, with good quality for the price. They also mention that the installation process was easy and that the chirp horn added a cheaper option to hear that the doors are locked.

"...The set comes complete and ready to use. The price is surprisingly low in today's world." Read more

"...But it's worth the buy!" Read more

"...Great value for the money but the install is not easy. You need to be fairly handy...." Read more

"The auto car locking system seem to be good quality for the price. The system was an easy install...." Read more

13 customers mention13 positive0 negative

Customers are satisfied with the range of the car alarm. They mention that the remote has an excellent range and the key fob's are durable and strong. The product has a surprisingly long distance for the range.

"...seem to work well never had an issue with it so far range is pretty impressive aswell" Read more

"...The remote is the best part, as the range on it is insane (I have never seen a factory remote work from this far away). Great kit!!..." Read more

"...wire, I extended the headlamps wiring, both remotes work and this thing has crazy reach...." Read more

"...in a more reliable fuse, they worked great. Decent range on the remote, no complaints...." Read more

14 customers mention9 positive5 negative

Customers are mixed about the remotes of the car alarm. Some mention that it turned out beautiful, while others say that they are useless. Some customers also mention that the function of the remote was backwards.

"...Everything went perfect. Took a little figuring out but turned out beautiful. Can't even tell it's there...." Read more

"...When installed, the function of the remotes was backwards; that is, the unlock button on the remote locked and the lock button unlocked...." Read more

"...Pros.- Very nice system. works great so far.- Two remotes, I mounted one remote to center console within arms length.-..." Read more

"...It is a nice modern touch to have in a classic car with manual locks - what used to be a key to unlock one door, getting in and then unlocking all..." Read more

14 customers mention4 positive10 negative

Customers are dissatisfied with the size of the car alarm. They mention that the cables will be too short for their vehicle, the wiring harness is too short, and the provided hardware is too big. Some customers also say that the rod crimps were drastically too small and will not fit their vehicle. Overall, customers are disappointed with the quality and size of this car alarm system.

"...that did was leave me with thankfully just one door that the wires were too short...." Read more

"...My biggest complaint is the wiring harness is too short- wont reach rear doors + too short between the driver and passenger door- I had to make the 5..." Read more

"...4. REMOTES: compact, good size, solid look and great bottoms feel. 5. SHIPPING: Prime 2 days on time shipping, no delays. 6...." Read more

"...gripe I have is that the cables for my manual locks did not have a large enough diameter for the the clamps to work without modification...." Read more

10 customers mention0 positive10 negative

Customers are dissatisfied with the durability of the car alarm. They mention that the product broke easily, the actuator failed in less than a year, and the fuse holder broke. The brains of the systems failed twice.

"...These actuators can wear out fast if they choose to. Which is why they supply you with those pre crimped connectors that you shouldn't use." Read more

"...is I which they included just one more rod bc one of them broke while trying to bend (more than once in the same spot)." Read more

"Wire is crappy and bad break’s like once a few months. So I rewire the motor to switch and then work great." Read more

"...It was also broken at the fuse holder, but once I figured that out, it worked great...." Read more

Working perfectly so far on 2000 Chevy Silverado
5 Stars
Working perfectly so far on 2000 Chevy Silverado
Despite the lack of information in the instructions, I managed to get this system properly installed in a base model 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 with a two-door cab. Since this is a two-door, I only used two of the four actuators. I hooked up a third actuator to a relay inside the pickup truck bed's toolbox. Then when I press the trunk-release button on the FOB, the relay activates the actuator and the lid is popped open. Since the release rod is ¼" diameter, I had to fabricate an adapter that would attach the thin actuator rod to the lid release rod. See photo.The wiring diagram is adequate for somebody familiar with such things. You can tell it’s been translated from another language as some of the terminology is not typical. There are no instructions whatsoever and you’re going to need some ingenuity and mechanical aptitude to get this installed and working properly.Out of the box, the inline fuses, diodes, and electrical connectors are included and already wired into the harness. This was unclear in the description so I already purchased an inline fuse.Note: This is a Master/Slave system. The Master actuator (5 wires) is mounted on the driver's door so when you manually lock/unlock using the factory manual door lock, the locking system is triggered and all other doors (the slaves with 2 wires each) will lock/unlock all passenger door(s) in sync with the driver's door.My recommendation is to setup a work surface near the front left fender so you can bench test the system between your driver’s side door and the battery. My battery just happens to be on the driver’s side. If yours is on the other side, then set yourself up near the opposite fender.Plug everything together as per the diagram and matching up the colors. Make sure to connect the 5-wire Master actuator and at least one 2-wire Slave actuator. Then you can temporarily hook up the red power lead to the battery using a clip. I pulled out the main fuse until it was hooked up and installed the main fuse last before testing anything. You can leave the purple (optional lights), orange (optional trunk), spare brown (optional switch), spare white (optional switch), and any spare blue and green wires disconnected. It should lock/unlock with the FOB and you’ll hear clicking inside the unit which would correspond to flashing the signal lights if/when those are hooked up. At this point, focus on the mechanical mounting while leaving the system connected on the bench. I mounted my first actuator in the door and plugged it into the blue and green wire connectors to test out the lock/unlock operation before I committed myself and permanently routed the harness throughout the truck.By default, LOCKed is when actuator fully RETRACTED. If you cannot physically mount the actuator in the correct orientation to make this happen, the system is fully reversible as I will explain below. Mount the actuator in the orientation that makes the most sense mechanically/physically, and then you can reverse certain wires as described below that will flip the operation of the system while maintaining the proper operation of the designated lock/unlock buttons on the FOB. In all cases the polarity to cause retraction is blue (-) and green (+), and to cause extension is blue (+) and green (-).Let’s go through this wire by wire as per their included diagram:RED (with inline fuse) - 12 volt DC CONSTANT power from your battery or fuse box. The diagram shows a 10-Amp inline fuse, but the wiring harness includes a 15-Amp inline fuse. I think these wires are too small for 15 Amps so just to be safer, I downgraded my inline fuses to 10-Amp. Since I’m only using half the actuators, I’ll be using half the power and therefore 10-Amp protection should be more than plenty. Worst case, you can just use the 15-Amp fuse they supply with the system. I ran one 14-gauge red wire from a spare fused 12-volt threaded post in my engine compartment's fuse box and then through the firewall boot to under my dashboard. My truck supplies these spare fused 12-volt posts in my fuse box, but you could use a fuse tap device or splice into your power someplace else. Just make sure it’s done safely and correctly as you don’t want a short circuit causing an electrical fire. You may be able to find a constant 12-volt wire under your dash, but it was safer and easier for me to find it under the hood.BLACK (with RING connector) - This is negative power from your battery, which is also connected to vehicle ground. The included harness already has a ring stud connected to this black wire so find a metal stud or put a screw through a hole in any grounded metal under your dashboard and connect this wire here. Make sure the metal is clean and connected to electrical ground. Ground can be verified with a continuity test or a meter. Consult with an electrician if you’re unsure.BLUE and GREEN (with connectors) - These pairs of wires connect to each actuator and carry the power that causes them to push out or pull in. By default, LOCK means the actuator is RETRACTED. If you need to make the actuator UNLOCK when RETRACTED, then you need to REVERSE the Blue and Green connections at EVERY actuator or the system will not operate in sequence. If you don't use all four actuators, it's perfectly safe to clip off the extra pairs of Blue & Green wires. Just be sure to individually tape the ends as these will be energized when locking/unlocking. Bare Blue and Green cannot touch each other or the system will short out.BLACK, WHITE and BROWN (with connectors) - These wires get plugged into the MASTER actuator only. Black is the "common" or system ground. White and Brown tell the system the position of the actuator. By default, the actuator is in LOCK position when RETRACTED. If you need to reverse this operation, then you’ve already reversed the Blue & Green wires as described above. IF the Blue/Green actuator wires have been reversed, then you MUST also reverse the White & Brown wires at only this connection to the Master actuator. Black stays Black (ground).WHITE and BROWN (extra wires) - These wires are for the OPTIONAL switches. If you want to hook up a lock/unlock switch then use these spare wires for that. Switch should be a “momentary contact” or you will apply constant power to the controller and probably burn it out. Connect a switch between Brown & ground (Black) and you will UNLOCK the system. Connect a switch between White & ground (Black) and you will LOCK the system. Even if you reverse the actuator operation as per previous paragraphs, Brown is ALWAYS UNLOCK and White is ALWAYS LOCK… these optional over-rides never get reversed and always correspond to the Lock/Unlock icons on the FOB.VIOLET (purple with diodes and inline fuse) - This purple wire pulses your signaling lights when you lock/unlock via the FOB. One flash when you lock, and two flashes when you unlock. If the car has already been locked, you will see 5 flashes when pressing lock icon. You can hook this up to parking lights (NOT headlights), turn signals, or another 12-volt lamp. The diodes protect this system from back-feeding power when you use the lights normally. I selected turn signal lights because these are the brightest. Also, I have remote start that turns on the parking lights, so I use the turn signal lights to differentiate this lock/unlock FOB. They give you two diodes and two purple wires precisely for hooking up to each of the two turn signal wires. These can be tricky to find so be sure to consult with your vehicle’s wiring diagram. Since I downgraded my main 15-Amp fuse to 10-Amp, I also downgraded this fuse to 10-Amp. It makes no sense to have this signal light fuse larger than the main fuse as it would never protect anything and all power still goes through main fuse on red wire. If you draw too much power and blow fuses, then go back to the 15-Amp they provide. Otherwise, you probably have a wiring problem or bare wire touching ground someplace.AMBER (extra wire) - (Actually, this wire has an orange color.) This is for a trunk release actuator. The diagram shows -300 mA. So this one seems to be causing the most confusion and complaints in these reviews. In order to see the 12 volts from this output, you measure between +12 volts (red wire) and this orange wire. Then press the trunk icon on the FOB. It is a brief pulse no matter how long you hold the button. 300 mA is not a lot of current, so if you hook up an actuator directly to this orange wire, you will likely draw a lot more than 300 mA and burn out the controller unit. My recommendation is to hook up a small automotive style 12-volt relay to control your trunk actuator. Without getting too far into the wiring, the COIL on the relay would get +12 volts on one side and this orange wire on the other side; and the coil only draws ~ 100 - 150 mA. Pressing the FOB trunk button will activate this relay. Then you can use the switch side of the relay to control an actuator and/or any other accessory.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QXDZRD/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fY0WCbYSKAGKHMechanicals: This is entirely up to you and your mechanical skills, but you might have to make brackets and cut & bend the control rod. It’s critical that the actuator pulls its rod as straight and parallel to the normal operation of your OEM rod. I’d also make sure the rubber boot does not rub on anything. Roll down the windows to make sure the actuators and wires stay clear! See my photos and video.Routing of wires is up to you, but my truck had rubber boots in the door jambs for speaker wires. I removed my plastic panels to get to these boots on both sides to release it. Once the boots were loose, it was easy to push all the new wires through. Then snap the boots back into place and lock wires are hidden away with the speaker wires. I was also careful to tie all wires to existing wiring making sure there was no place that would rub the wires and short them out. I also purchased 100 feet of ⅜" split loom for protecting the wires.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J7RD6ZI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_eV0WCbRTGT18MSince the master actuator contains switches that control the other actuators, you may have to fuss with this rod the most. It’s critical that the amount of travel of your factory lock lever be within the same amount of travel to trip the internal switches of the master actuator. On my first attempt, after putting my door back together, I no longer had enough travel on the lever to engage the master/slave function on the unlock side of the lever. I had to loosen and adjust the new rod length a slight amount towards lock position so that the plastic lever pushed the rod enough in both directions and it’s working great now.Documentation quirks:It shows the spare White/Brown wires with text, "Connect with Main Unit" - very misleading. Read my explanation above. These would connect to ground through an OPTIONAL momentary switch. Brown to Black (ground) triggers UNLOCK and White to Black (ground) triggers LOCK.The wiring diagram shows "Parking Lights" with two wires and a "left" and "right" lamp. However, these are really the turn signals. If you tie into the parking lights, you only need one purple wire. If you tie into the turn signal lights, then you'll need both purple wires.Under “Operation Instructions”:“Lock - Press once to lock the system (hold for 20 seconds (-) output will engage for window roll-up)” ~ I have no idea what they’re talking about as there nothing in this system for windows; no extra outputs, wires, etc. And nothing happens when you hold this button for 20 seconds. Press this button, the signal lights flash ONCE and the doors simultaneously lock. If the car has already been locked, and if you try to lock it again, the signal lights will flash FIVE (5) times."Unlock" ~ Press this button, the signal lights flash TWICE and the doors simultaneously unlock. They fail to mention that holding THIS button for 2-½ seconds will subsequently send the trunk release signal. There are no signal lights with trunk release.“Trunk Release - Hold for 2-½ seconds , lights will flash three times and trunk will release” ~ There is absolutely no 2.5-second delay on the trunk release button and the signal lights absolutely do not flash as part of the trunk release operation. Press trunk icon on FOB and you'll IMMEDIATELY get a pulse of 12 volts between the red and orange wires.NOTE: The trunk release circuit is limited to 300 mA so it's safest to only hook up a relay coil and use the relay contacts to apply voltage to any actuators. Otherwise, the actuator might draw more than 300 mA and could burn out the electronics. Again, if you don't understand how to hook-up a relay, please consult with an expert.2023 EDIT: It's been nearly 4 years since I installed this system and it's still working great without any issues.
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Top reviews from the United States

Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2019
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5.0 out of 5 stars Working perfectly so far on 2000 Chevy Silverado
Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2019
Despite the lack of information in the instructions, I managed to get this system properly installed in a base model 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 with a two-door cab. Since this is a two-door, I only used two of the four actuators. I hooked up a third actuator to a relay inside the pickup truck bed's toolbox. Then when I press the trunk-release button on the FOB, the relay activates the actuator and the lid is popped open. Since the release rod is ¼" diameter, I had to fabricate an adapter that would attach the thin actuator rod to the lid release rod. See photo.

The wiring diagram is adequate for somebody familiar with such things. You can tell it’s been translated from another language as some of the terminology is not typical. There are no instructions whatsoever and you’re going to need some ingenuity and mechanical aptitude to get this installed and working properly.

Out of the box, the inline fuses, diodes, and electrical connectors are included and already wired into the harness. This was unclear in the description so I already purchased an inline fuse.

Note: This is a Master/Slave system. The Master actuator (5 wires) is mounted on the driver's door so when you manually lock/unlock using the factory manual door lock, the locking system is triggered and all other doors (the slaves with 2 wires each) will lock/unlock all passenger door(s) in sync with the driver's door.

My recommendation is to setup a work surface near the front left fender so you can bench test the system between your driver’s side door and the battery. My battery just happens to be on the driver’s side. If yours is on the other side, then set yourself up near the opposite fender.

Plug everything together as per the diagram and matching up the colors. Make sure to connect the 5-wire Master actuator and at least one 2-wire Slave actuator. Then you can temporarily hook up the red power lead to the battery using a clip. I pulled out the main fuse until it was hooked up and installed the main fuse last before testing anything. You can leave the purple (optional lights), orange (optional trunk), spare brown (optional switch), spare white (optional switch), and any spare blue and green wires disconnected. It should lock/unlock with the FOB and you’ll hear clicking inside the unit which would correspond to flashing the signal lights if/when those are hooked up. At this point, focus on the mechanical mounting while leaving the system connected on the bench. I mounted my first actuator in the door and plugged it into the blue and green wire connectors to test out the lock/unlock operation before I committed myself and permanently routed the harness throughout the truck.

By default, LOCKed is when actuator fully RETRACTED. If you cannot physically mount the actuator in the correct orientation to make this happen, the system is fully reversible as I will explain below. Mount the actuator in the orientation that makes the most sense mechanically/physically, and then you can reverse certain wires as described below that will flip the operation of the system while maintaining the proper operation of the designated lock/unlock buttons on the FOB. In all cases the polarity to cause retraction is blue (-) and green (+), and to cause extension is blue (+) and green (-).

Let’s go through this wire by wire as per their included diagram:

RED (with inline fuse) - 12 volt DC CONSTANT power from your battery or fuse box. The diagram shows a 10-Amp inline fuse, but the wiring harness includes a 15-Amp inline fuse. I think these wires are too small for 15 Amps so just to be safer, I downgraded my inline fuses to 10-Amp. Since I’m only using half the actuators, I’ll be using half the power and therefore 10-Amp protection should be more than plenty. Worst case, you can just use the 15-Amp fuse they supply with the system. I ran one 14-gauge red wire from a spare fused 12-volt threaded post in my engine compartment's fuse box and then through the firewall boot to under my dashboard. My truck supplies these spare fused 12-volt posts in my fuse box, but you could use a fuse tap device or splice into your power someplace else. Just make sure it’s done safely and correctly as you don’t want a short circuit causing an electrical fire. You may be able to find a constant 12-volt wire under your dash, but it was safer and easier for me to find it under the hood.

BLACK (with RING connector) - This is negative power from your battery, which is also connected to vehicle ground. The included harness already has a ring stud connected to this black wire so find a metal stud or put a screw through a hole in any grounded metal under your dashboard and connect this wire here. Make sure the metal is clean and connected to electrical ground. Ground can be verified with a continuity test or a meter. Consult with an electrician if you’re unsure.

BLUE and GREEN (with connectors) - These pairs of wires connect to each actuator and carry the power that causes them to push out or pull in. By default, LOCK means the actuator is RETRACTED. If you need to make the actuator UNLOCK when RETRACTED, then you need to REVERSE the Blue and Green connections at EVERY actuator or the system will not operate in sequence. If you don't use all four actuators, it's perfectly safe to clip off the extra pairs of Blue & Green wires. Just be sure to individually tape the ends as these will be energized when locking/unlocking. Bare Blue and Green cannot touch each other or the system will short out.

BLACK, WHITE and BROWN (with connectors) - These wires get plugged into the MASTER actuator only. Black is the "common" or system ground. White and Brown tell the system the position of the actuator. By default, the actuator is in LOCK position when RETRACTED. If you need to reverse this operation, then you’ve already reversed the Blue & Green wires as described above. IF the Blue/Green actuator wires have been reversed, then you MUST also reverse the White & Brown wires at only this connection to the Master actuator. Black stays Black (ground).

WHITE and BROWN (extra wires) - These wires are for the OPTIONAL switches. If you want to hook up a lock/unlock switch then use these spare wires for that. Switch should be a “momentary contact” or you will apply constant power to the controller and probably burn it out. Connect a switch between Brown & ground (Black) and you will UNLOCK the system. Connect a switch between White & ground (Black) and you will LOCK the system. Even if you reverse the actuator operation as per previous paragraphs, Brown is ALWAYS UNLOCK and White is ALWAYS LOCK… these optional over-rides never get reversed and always correspond to the Lock/Unlock icons on the FOB.

VIOLET (purple with diodes and inline fuse) - This purple wire pulses your signaling lights when you lock/unlock via the FOB. One flash when you lock, and two flashes when you unlock. If the car has already been locked, you will see 5 flashes when pressing lock icon. You can hook this up to parking lights (NOT headlights), turn signals, or another 12-volt lamp. The diodes protect this system from back-feeding power when you use the lights normally. I selected turn signal lights because these are the brightest. Also, I have remote start that turns on the parking lights, so I use the turn signal lights to differentiate this lock/unlock FOB. They give you two diodes and two purple wires precisely for hooking up to each of the two turn signal wires. These can be tricky to find so be sure to consult with your vehicle’s wiring diagram. Since I downgraded my main 15-Amp fuse to 10-Amp, I also downgraded this fuse to 10-Amp. It makes no sense to have this signal light fuse larger than the main fuse as it would never protect anything and all power still goes through main fuse on red wire. If you draw too much power and blow fuses, then go back to the 15-Amp they provide. Otherwise, you probably have a wiring problem or bare wire touching ground someplace.

AMBER (extra wire) - (Actually, this wire has an orange color.) This is for a trunk release actuator. The diagram shows -300 mA. So this one seems to be causing the most confusion and complaints in these reviews. In order to see the 12 volts from this output, you measure between +12 volts (red wire) and this orange wire. Then press the trunk icon on the FOB. It is a brief pulse no matter how long you hold the button. 300 mA is not a lot of current, so if you hook up an actuator directly to this orange wire, you will likely draw a lot more than 300 mA and burn out the controller unit. My recommendation is to hook up a small automotive style 12-volt relay to control your trunk actuator. Without getting too far into the wiring, the COIL on the relay would get +12 volts on one side and this orange wire on the other side; and the coil only draws ~ 100 - 150 mA. Pressing the FOB trunk button will activate this relay. Then you can use the switch side of the relay to control an actuator and/or any other accessory.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QXDZRD/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fY0WCbYSKAGKH

Mechanicals: This is entirely up to you and your mechanical skills, but you might have to make brackets and cut & bend the control rod. It’s critical that the actuator pulls its rod as straight and parallel to the normal operation of your OEM rod. I’d also make sure the rubber boot does not rub on anything. Roll down the windows to make sure the actuators and wires stay clear! See my photos and video.

Routing of wires is up to you, but my truck had rubber boots in the door jambs for speaker wires. I removed my plastic panels to get to these boots on both sides to release it. Once the boots were loose, it was easy to push all the new wires through. Then snap the boots back into place and lock wires are hidden away with the speaker wires. I was also careful to tie all wires to existing wiring making sure there was no place that would rub the wires and short them out. I also purchased 100 feet of ⅜" split loom for protecting the wires.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J7RD6ZI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_eV0WCbRTGT18M

Since the master actuator contains switches that control the other actuators, you may have to fuss with this rod the most. It’s critical that the amount of travel of your factory lock lever be within the same amount of travel to trip the internal switches of the master actuator. On my first attempt, after putting my door back together, I no longer had enough travel on the lever to engage the master/slave function on the unlock side of the lever. I had to loosen and adjust the new rod length a slight amount towards lock position so that the plastic lever pushed the rod enough in both directions and it’s working great now.

Documentation quirks:

It shows the spare White/Brown wires with text, "Connect with Main Unit" - very misleading. Read my explanation above. These would connect to ground through an OPTIONAL momentary switch. Brown to Black (ground) triggers UNLOCK and White to Black (ground) triggers LOCK.

The wiring diagram shows "Parking Lights" with two wires and a "left" and "right" lamp. However, these are really the turn signals. If you tie into the parking lights, you only need one purple wire. If you tie into the turn signal lights, then you'll need both purple wires.

Under “Operation Instructions”:

“Lock - Press once to lock the system (hold for 20 seconds (-) output will engage for window roll-up)” ~ I have no idea what they’re talking about as there nothing in this system for windows; no extra outputs, wires, etc. And nothing happens when you hold this button for 20 seconds. Press this button, the signal lights flash ONCE and the doors simultaneously lock. If the car has already been locked, and if you try to lock it again, the signal lights will flash FIVE (5) times.

"Unlock" ~ Press this button, the signal lights flash TWICE and the doors simultaneously unlock. They fail to mention that holding THIS button for 2-½ seconds will subsequently send the trunk release signal. There are no signal lights with trunk release.

“Trunk Release - Hold for 2-½ seconds , lights will flash three times and trunk will release” ~ There is absolutely no 2.5-second delay on the trunk release button and the signal lights absolutely do not flash as part of the trunk release operation. Press trunk icon on FOB and you'll IMMEDIATELY get a pulse of 12 volts between the red and orange wires.

NOTE: The trunk release circuit is limited to 300 mA so it's safest to only hook up a relay coil and use the relay contacts to apply voltage to any actuators. Otherwise, the actuator might draw more than 300 mA and could burn out the electronics. Again, if you don't understand how to hook-up a relay, please consult with an expert.

2023 EDIT: It's been nearly 4 years since I installed this system and it's still working great without any issues.
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129 people found this helpful
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Reviewed in the United States on June 12, 2023
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5.0 out of 5 stars Great kit for Miata’s
Reviewed in the United States on June 12, 2023
This kit is easy to install and very easy to modify
I’ve simplified mines to fit in my 91 Miata
Didn’t want to have a big mess of extra wires so I removed the white and brown wires along with 2 actuator wires (blue and green) & left the other 2 since a Miata is a 2 door car
Later I added a relay to have my truck pop open and re-added one of the actuator wires (blue & green)
You will have to make some kind of bracket to install the actuator in the trunk
To simplify it pin 85 goes to the truck release wire (orange)
Pin 87 will go to power the device (aka the blue wire in my case) the 2nd wire will go to a ground (green)
Pin 86 and 30 will go to power which in my case I’ve tied into the fused red wire on the main brain of the central locking kit
Purple wire was tapped into a red wire with a black stripe in the truck (the wire is for day time running lights)
I’ve had it in my car for a couple of months now with no issues at all
Works from a surprisingly far distance and is very useful if your Miata doesn’t have a truck release button like mine
No more having to turn the car off & removing the key just to insert it in the trunk when I need something
Hopefully the pictures help if my explanation didn’t lol
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Reviewed in the United States on May 15, 2022
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Reviewed in the United States on September 18, 2023
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5.0 out of 5 stars Versatility
Reviewed in the United States on September 18, 2023
This set has unlimited applications. Mine is for a remote latch for hobby equipment. The set comes complete and ready to use. The price is surprisingly low in today's world.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 25, 2024
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5.0 out of 5 stars You can add a inside switch easily
Reviewed in the United States on January 25, 2024
Installed on 2014 f150. These are powerful and work great. A bit of an install but worth it. Just put window up and dow to make sure it doesn't interfere where actuator is mounted. Run wires through boot if possible. Mine had a boot electrical plug so ended up drilling a separate hole to cabin. As far as adding a switch which is not explained anywhere online.. use the short brown and white wire coming off harness. When they contact ground one locks and one unlocks. Run to appropriate side of switch and have a separate ground line to switch. Ordered window switch on Amazon for $7. Also these actuators link to each other so if you manually push lock down on drivers side the passenger side goes down too.
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