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Anyone care to help me out with a 2.5 L 4 cyl 92 Chevy S 10

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by nyg052003, Mar 17, 2015.

  1. Mar 17, 2015 at 6:37 PM
    #1
    nyg052003

    nyg052003 [OP] Nyg052003

    Joined:
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    04 Tacoma TRD Offroad SR5 4x4
    Having some issues with it and just wanting to see if anyone can offer help. S 10 forum sucks real bad. I've taken off the Cat, new fuel pump, fuel press regulator, fuel filter, tps, and tried a new computer as well as map sensor. Also new distri cap and rotor button. It is running a little better but still upon starting up it runs a little rough for about a minute then levels off some. Also put on a new Coolant temp sensor. The Air intake charge sensor looked gummed up and I cleaned it today with carb cleaner just to try something and it ran no different. I'm thinking it's running rich and moreso at startup.

    When driving it drives decent but if I take my foot off the gas it will start to buck a little about 5 seconds later. Coming upon a stop or slowing up for a curve it will want to stall out and die if I don't play with the gas. Also notice when its about to do that the brakes feel hard. Also thinking it could be a pickup in the distributor or the Ignition control module. My experiences with pickups is normally a warm issue where car if dies will not want to start back up right away.

    With setting the timing on this truck, the manual says to jumper A n B to prevent the control module from trying to advance the timing as you are setting it. Other s 10's have a wire that must be disconnected to accomplish this. I looked up and down left and right upside down and could not find that wire. When I jumper A n B and start the truck, it won't stay running. If I remove the jumper it will run. I tried setting the timing with no jumper and both directions in small increments I set it with a light and got it at its best running at about 12-13 degrees. I don't understand why with the jumper it will die if I jumper it while truck running or if I jumper it then start it doesn't wana stay running.

    So basically I'm thinking it has to be something with the pickup, ICM, air intake charge sensor, everything else has been checked and changed. Still not sure those are the culprits but man I'm swamped.
     
  2. Mar 17, 2015 at 6:43 PM
    #2
    Idaholandho

    Idaholandho The other white meat

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    2015 Tacoma, Magnuson Supercharger, Bully Dog Flash and GT, Safari Snorkel, Toytec BOSS 2.5 Coil Over Front, Toytec BOSS Aluma 2.5 Rear, Toytec 10 Leaf Pack, Stainless Brake Lines, Icon UCA's, CBI Reverse Adj Shackle Mounts, CBI Ubolt Flip Kit, Timbren Bump Stops, CBI Bushmaster 2.0 Front Bumper w/ Warn M8000S Winch and SR2 Rigid Flood Lights, CBI Bushmaster 2.0 Rear Swingout Bumper, Rigid SR2 backup lights and Dual RotopaX / Fuel/First Aid Pack, CBI Rock Sliders, CBI Full Skids and CBI Rear Diff Armor, BAMF LCA Skids, FrontRunner Outfitters Slimline II Roof Rack w/ Rigid SR2 40" Combo Light Bar, Rock lights, Rigid pods in Bed Rack, Intelligent Battery System w/ Dual NorthStar batteries, Spod Power Distribution, illuminated switch panel in sunglasses holder, Viar Extreme Duty On-Board Air w/ 2.5 Gallon Tank under bed, Air 2 Air Sys, Magnaflow Exhaust, Fuel Off Road Trophy Wheels, 285/75/17 Toyo Open Country R/T, Diff breather mod, FX-R BHLM Demon Eye headlights, Esuse LED Fog Kit, Pelfreybilt Camera Relocation mount, Pelfreybilt ax/shovel bed mount, Debadged, tint, a 2006 Tacoma SR5 and a 2022 Trail Edition
    Have you checked your vacuum lines for cracking? Sounds like you may have a leak somewhere.
     
  3. Mar 17, 2015 at 8:24 PM
    #3
    nyg052003

    nyg052003 [OP] Nyg052003

    Joined:
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    Charleston, SC
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    yes I used the spray the areas with carb cleaner...........oops was I supposed to use starting fluid?

    will double check
     
  4. Mar 17, 2015 at 8:34 PM
    #4
    Idaholandho

    Idaholandho The other white meat

    Joined:
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    3 Now - 2022 Trail Edition, 2015 TRD 4x4 and a 2006 SR5 4x4
    2015 Tacoma, Magnuson Supercharger, Bully Dog Flash and GT, Safari Snorkel, Toytec BOSS 2.5 Coil Over Front, Toytec BOSS Aluma 2.5 Rear, Toytec 10 Leaf Pack, Stainless Brake Lines, Icon UCA's, CBI Reverse Adj Shackle Mounts, CBI Ubolt Flip Kit, Timbren Bump Stops, CBI Bushmaster 2.0 Front Bumper w/ Warn M8000S Winch and SR2 Rigid Flood Lights, CBI Bushmaster 2.0 Rear Swingout Bumper, Rigid SR2 backup lights and Dual RotopaX / Fuel/First Aid Pack, CBI Rock Sliders, CBI Full Skids and CBI Rear Diff Armor, BAMF LCA Skids, FrontRunner Outfitters Slimline II Roof Rack w/ Rigid SR2 40" Combo Light Bar, Rock lights, Rigid pods in Bed Rack, Intelligent Battery System w/ Dual NorthStar batteries, Spod Power Distribution, illuminated switch panel in sunglasses holder, Viar Extreme Duty On-Board Air w/ 2.5 Gallon Tank under bed, Air 2 Air Sys, Magnaflow Exhaust, Fuel Off Road Trophy Wheels, 285/75/17 Toyo Open Country R/T, Diff breather mod, FX-R BHLM Demon Eye headlights, Esuse LED Fog Kit, Pelfreybilt Camera Relocation mount, Pelfreybilt ax/shovel bed mount, Debadged, tint, a 2006 Tacoma SR5 and a 2022 Trail Edition
    Not sure I understand. Why would you spray the lines with either one? Just remove and inspect the vacuum lines for cracks or holes.
     
  5. Mar 18, 2015 at 4:30 AM
    #5
    nyg052003

    nyg052003 [OP] Nyg052003

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    well I've always heard that when spraying if the vehicle's idle changes then for sure you have a vacuum leak in that area but your logic makes sense also so remove and inspect. I guess with vehicle running and if you have an obvious leak where you are spraying then noticing it via idle is just a quicker way to diagnose but yes for the underside of hoses I agree inspecting is better.
     

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