How to change the rack and pinion steering -2nd gen V6

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=8.10106

 

What size pickle fork did you use? I have never needed one before and don't anticipate too much demand in the future. The set you have is like

$71 OTC 4559 Manual/Pneumatic Pickle Fork Set

$30 for a 3 pack on Amazon, or I can just get a single size for $10 from harbor freight.

Thanks for the write up! I will be having a go at this once I source all the parts.

 

I have to do this Saturday. Do you really have to follow all the steps in the factory manual? Anyone have a time frame from start to finish? thanks

 

Takes about 3-4 hours start to finish

Get new rack bolts
Cut the old owns off
Put the new ones in from the bottom.

 

Thanks, that is good news. Looking at the steps it seemed like it would be much longer. I was actually thinking of having it done but I would not know who to go to since I always do my own work.

 

Cutting those bolts saves so much time. If you take Ben out from the too(instead of cutting them off), you have to move the AC conpressor and alternator. It sucks.

 

I ground the nut and bolt down that sits under the compressor, took enough material off the bottom of the bolt which allowed it move up to clear the cross member without loosening the compressor. But I do agree with Spoonman that re-installing the bolts upside down when putting it back together will save you a lot of time and headache...
I didn't have to loosen the compressor doing it this way

 

So, my steering rack is spraying fluid all over the place. Looking at it, I believe the infamous PITA bolts are already upside down. My frame was replaced, and I suspect the technician slid the bolts in from below to make it easier for him/her. Can anyone confirm this?

 

Another pic, driver's side.

 

Do you know offhand what size bolts the rack bushings take, do you need new replacement nuts as well? I want to try to do this soon, what did you use to cut the bolts off with? Cutting disk and angle grinder?

 

I have a couple of noob questions since I've never messed around installing racks before.

- My linkage boots are showing leakage...I thought all I was gonna need were new boots. But this thread says I actually need to replace the whole damn rack?? Is that 100%?

- My personal time is better spent on other large projects I have in the garage...this thread if obviously for DIY...but how much cost are we talking about if I just dropped my truck off at Toyota or some other qualified shop?

- I understand the whole aftermarket bushing thing for suspension performance etc etc....but why is it SO suggested for a Tacoma's steering rack?

Thanks!

 

The bolts, and nuts, can be ordered from the dealer. Allow for some time for delivery, though. They're not usually in stock.

 

Guys I have read over this post and another on R&P removal and I am really struggling with getting the rack out!!

My Taco is a 2008 4x4 with Extended cab. I managed to get the two bolts out but cannot seem to get the rack over to the passenger side enough to remove it. The assembly that attaches to the steering shaft (including the two lines that go from it to the other side of the rack) bang into the front diff or engine, and there is no clearance to remove the rack?

Is it necessary to remove the front diff to get the rack out? Is my 2008 so much different than other years?

Any help of suggestions would be great.

Cheers!
Dave

 

With your body facing the bumper, remove the bushings of the sway bar so you can move the bar down, providing more space. Then move the rack towards the passenger side as far as possible to clear the now new opening provided by moving the sway bar. You may have to twist the rack. Once the driver's side tie rod clears the frame on the driver's side, then pull the rack forward towards you, then back out towards the front of the truck on the driver's side. You're essentially making a sideways V starting from the driver's side; with the vertex of the V being the passenger side of the frame. Took me forever to figure this one out. If I had to do it again, it'd probably take no more than five minutes now.

 

Thanks onedivinetaco.

 

Managed to get the two hydraulic lines off, mounting bolts, and detached the steering linkage from the top two bolts. I can't seem to remove the steering linkage from the where it meets the steering rack. Has anyone successfully removed their rack with it still attached? Haven't had any luck removing the entire rack yet......

 

youngfeller, keep at it, it will come out!
In my opinion you really need to get the lower steering linkage off or it just won't come out. Once you have the bolt out of the lower linkage make sure to hammer a pry bar into the linkage to split the splined area apart so that you can wiggle it loose.

Good luck!

 

Well, I'm getting ready to throw a new Cardone steering rack into my '06 4x4 this afternoon. New lines, new filter, rebuilt rack, new outer tie rods, and of course a full fluid flush with Dexron III ATF. I should be doing poly bushings, but I'm not going to deal with it. Wish me luck as I'm going to knock this out by myself today in the 106* heat.

My old one is so crunchy internally at full turn either way, I'm surprised it made it 10 years. Never did a PS flush EVER, but this original rack gave me 10 good years of hard wheeling with a lift. Don't do as I did and skip this important maintenance! The final undoing of this rack was when I took a fast curve on a dirt road and hit my driver's side front tire on a boulder and detonated my LCA and busted the CV in half.

 

Got my rack changed out last night, and I didn't even have to move the AC compressor to do it. Fiddled with it and got it at just the right angle to roll the rack slightly forward and just barely clear the compressor without cutting. Reinstalled the bolts upside down for ease, though. Even with the bolt in the subframe, there was just the tiniest bit of play in it to slightly roll the rack forward once the passenger bolt was out of the way (easy to remove that side). The only real bitch of the project was keeping the steering wheel perfectly straight and getting that all aligned. The 2 hoses were a bit of a PITA because of limited clearance, so lots of tiny little turns with the wrench to get them off and back on the new rack.

So glad I did this. Got it aligned today and it drives like a dream. After 10 years, I have like-new steering again. Replace those outer tie rods while you're at it. They're only like $15 each, and the ones I bought have zerks. Get new fill/drain lines while you're under there, too.

 

Bumping this thread because I'm going to be tackling this soon. Anyone know WHY the OP says to not spin the nuts? If it's too much of a hassle I'm thinking I'll just cut the bolts out and replace with some grade 8 ones from home depot.