hold me fellas

I had been having issues with the driver's side rear wheel heating up after drives.

I finally took in to the shop after months of procrastination. Just got off the phone. There a couple issues with drum brakes but the primary repair is...a bent left rear axle. Mechanic said new parts + labor would be $900.

I'm going to see what I can find online and at a scrap yard (suggestions PLEASE).

What would you do?

I'll go do a search on here for some ideas, just wanted to 'vent'.

 

I think you can pick up a complete rear end at the salvage yard cheap.

that's what I would do but I have to ask how the hell you bent one? I didnt know that was even possible to do, did you jump off a cliff with it or get in a wreck?

 

If you could give us your general location as well as some info on your truck (year, transmission, single double or access cab, gear ratio...) that would be helpful.
Id start here.
Hope that helps you get started anyways.

 

It's a '95 extra cab, manual tranny, 4 cyl, 2.4 liter engine.

But I would need to make sure that rear end matched with mine, correct? Or would any rear wheel drive do?

I have no idea how it got bent. I've had it for 2 years now. It's been a reliable DD, as expected.

 

I'd get a second opinion from another shop if I was you, before you did any sort of repairs.
When I worked at a shop rear wheel bearings were not uncommon on high-mileage trucks, and they'd also cause the rear wheel to run hot. And it's a lot less expensive to replace the bearings than it is to replace the axle.

Just my .02.

 

for $900 I would look into getting a whole new rear end with elockers. But thats cause I dont have lockers. Not sure if any rear end would fit with a 95.5 2.7.

 

I'd get a second opinion. If the shaft is bent the wheel will be wobbly. Set the rear on jack stands, block the front wheels front and rear and set it in gear and watch to see if spins true or not.
If it is spinning out of round, then next swap the wheels side to side to make sure it's not actually a bent wheel.

Some of these guys jump their trucks pretty high, you'd have to hit really hard to bend a shaft.

If you have to replace the entire rear end you need to match the existing gear ratio.
If it is a bent shaft, you can replace just the shaft.

There is the possibility the housing itself could be bent, this will not show up on a spin test but will cause bearings to run hot. This will require a complete rear end assembly.

 

I have to pony up $60 to get the truck out for a 2nd inspection.

The mechanic was very curious about how it got bent as well.

The wheel was wobbly. Something I didn't not know until last weekend when my brother mentioned it as he was driving behind me. He said it was a slight wobble noticeable at slower speeds. When he told me that I knew it was time to stop ignoring the wheel problem.

The terminology you mention has me confused now. The mechanic said "left rear axle" was bent.

Does that mean the shaft? I'm looking for the parts now so need to figure this out.

 

The "housing" is the entire assembly that you can visibly see under the truck. The "axle" or "shaft" is the part that spins inside the housing. There are two "axle shafts", the left side and the right side. These can not be seen from the outside but the wheels are ultimately attached to the shaft on the end.

If you can see the wobble I would swap wheels side to side and see if the wobble stays on the same side or follows the wheel. You should be able to do this in your driveway. Hopefully you just need a new wheel.

And equally hopeful the heating issue was just poorly adjusted brakes.

 

yep, if you didn't jump off a cliff with it or get in a wreck then I see no way in hell it can be bent, I bet its just bearings went bad. those guys are idiots or just trying to rip you off to make a lot of money of off you.

 

he has the 2.4 so its a 5 lug 2wd truck so unless he did a 4wd conversion to it its not a 4wd

 

As others suggest, I too find it hard to believe that the axle could be bent within the housing, or even that the housing is bent. Both bent, maybe, but still skeptical.

I'd do some more digging. I'd think a failed bearing would cause wobble and certainly heat.

The 'swap the wheel' suggestion someone made is good too, as it takes a bent wheel out of the equation.

Barring any self diagnosis success, I'd at least get a 2nd opinion. If there is a shop in your area that specializes in rear ends, (especially race cars, trucks and heavy equipment) I'd be seeing about them checking it.

If more than a bearing or wheel is required, I agree that a full swap over with a used diff from a compatible model would be the fastest/cheapest way.

 

So if does end up being an axle shaft issue, I found this:

http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=10002

Will that work as a replacement for the driver side rear?

 

not worth it IMHO by the time you rebuild the axle and put new bearings and seals it is going to cost an arm and a leg so just get a used complete axle from the salvage yard and your done, job over, no more money to spend.

its a lot more then just the part that went bad, its all the other parts that need replacing and the labor to do it is what will kill you.

swap axle with used axle, replace brake pads and axle fluid ant your done.

but first you need to see if its just bearings, if all you need is bearings and seals then replace those but if you need another axle shaft I wouldn't go there.

 

Is this a 5 or 6 lug axle? you mentioned extra cab 2.4 and the link you posted is for a 6 lug, or the 8.4 axle...

if it's the 6 lug non locking version, here is the shaft.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetra...CMbP2c_EwsQCFQaQaQod-VsAeQ#overview_Container

 

Do the axle lugs pattern match with the wheel lugs? Cause the wheels have 5 lugs.

The link I posted was what came up when I searched for my make and model.

The one you posted is a foot shorter than mine.

I have no idea what anymore.

 

it's an inch shorter, lol, that made me laugh. Could be a 4-wheel drive parts typo, I'm not sure. The link you posted is for a 4-runner, T-100, or Tacoma with or without factory locker, according to their "compatible with" link

and no, the link I posted won't work with a 5 lug pattern.

 

^so just to confirm the lug pattern of the axle shaft has to match up with the wheels'?

I assume that the axle shaft end is what gets attached to the wheels.

 

yes and yes. I've tried searching myself and not really finding anything for "5 lug Tacoma rear axle shaft" other than bearings and seals.

But seriously, swap the wheels side to side and have your friend follow you again and see if the wobble follows the wheel before you go banana's trying to find something you may not need.