bjmoose installs full OME kit & rear brake lines with pics

updated the original post with pix of installing the Dakar Add-a-Leaf.

 

So how much height did you gain w/ the new aal's and how is the feel now?

 

I knew someone would ask that but I didn't measure before and after.

It's noticeable, and it feels better.

The front of my bed has a bunch of heavy tools, 15 gallons of gas, high lift jack. The rear of the bed has winch with synthetic line.

There's a relentless high clearance bumper and a tire gate.

I wouldn't recommend this for a truck that typically has an empty bed.

My guess is somewhere between an inch and two inches gained back. I can definitely see a difference in where the top of the headlight line is.

 

Was the regular Dakar pack sagging under your constant load Steve ?

 

Not sure. I kept adding more stuff over time, then I was out off-road camping with a bunch of camping gear and firewood in the bed and another guy pointed out that the leaves were nearly flat and not giving me a lot of height off the bump stops.

But I couldn't say if carrying the load over time caused them to sag more than if I'd just put all that stuff in there all at once.

Also, when the tools were out but I filled the bed with lumber to build the firewood shed, it was only like an inch off the bumpstops.

 

Thanks for the writeup.

For the DIY'ers out there, I noticed a few things that might save time on your install with the front setup. This video points them out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E6u7dC7EHg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jo0FJSi-KYs

I didn't completely remove the sway bar - just detached it from the spindles and loosened the mounts along the frame, allowing it to swivel out of the way. Also, I never removed the tie rods, upper or lower control arms and still managed to have plenty of room. I had mine assembled by Headstrong Offroad, so they just popped right in after removing the complete assembly (instead of by components in the video).

The rear has been a pain in the ass. If your truck has seen winter or any moisture whatsoever, your top nut on your rear shocks will be all corroded, and the stupid design allows for the shock rod to spin inside the nut. You need to use a 5mm open wrench to hold it while you use a 14mm cresent wrench on the nut. When you do this, the top of the rod with the little 5mm flat sides with break or strip, at which point you're fucked. I didn't feel like messing around with it, so I drove to a shop and had it cut off. I was kind of disappointed to find out that the OME shocks had the same design - it seems to be universal across the Monroe shock lineup.

If you're installing one of the progressive 3 leaf AAL and you have a 4 leaf Tacoma, get them to cut off the rivets holding the rear-most bracket surrounding the OEM leaf pack, as your AAL has it's own brackets and the stock one will be in the way.

When you're reassembling, if you can't get the centering pin back into the hole in the axle, use some tie down straps to pull the axle into position and hold it while you align the leaf pack with the axle hole.

Other than that - soak every nut and bolt down with Liquid Wrench the day before you do the install to save some headache.

 

Thank you for the thread. I've completed the 12-page thread trace.

 

Subbed for brake line install

 

Piece of cake, just don't loose the clips. Lol!

 

Thanks @bjmoose! I replaced my stock 2/1 leaf springs (and rear struts) recently and your post was very helpful, it was my first time.

 

great write-up, wish I'd seen it a few weeks ago before I did my own swap to alcan leaf packs in the rear and Billy 5100/OME884s in the front.

I ended up detaching the LCA's from the spindle (stock coilovers came off OK with everything , and had the same issue with the stiffness trying to get it to drop, the trick is to loosen the nuts at the base of the LCA by a turn or two, then the LCA drops much more easily without hard prying and strain on the bushings. Just remember to re-tighten them before driving - I re-torqued mine with a bottle jack under the LCA lifting the corner so the joint was under load when tightening since my other car gets "clunk" in the front end when those joints are tightend with the suspension drooping, I didn't want to risk it with the truck.

For pinching off the brake lines, I've got a pair of these:

$22 OTC 4506 Fuel Line Clamp Set - 2 Piece, black

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4506-Fuel-Line-Clamp/dp/B002YKHRUK

Haven't used them yet, but if they'll work on fuel hoses, the ought to work on hydraulic hoses just as well. They also make some specialized pliers for the job which are like vise-grips with rounded jaws but those are a bit more expensive (the time savings would make sense if you're running a brake shop, but for one or two jobs every few years, these seem adequate).

btw, Has anyone else noticed that the pass side wheel well was a lot grimier than the driver's side? Or was that just my truck?

 

Awesome write up! Saved me tons of time today installing my lift. FYI (because I'm a dumbass) - my kit came with 2 sets of bushings for the leaf springs, well the front bushings were already in so I though "this must mean I take the stock bushing out of the rear shackle mount deal". DO NOT DO THIS!!!! After spending forever drilling it out, turns out those bushings don't fit in there (unless you cut them down with a hacksaw). Lesson learned

 

I like this thread helped a lot and installed my lift last night with 2 friends we were able to get it done in about 4 hours. We were on a time crunch being that the base auto shop was closing, so I know we rushed somethings a bit and was curious if we actually did everything correctly. pics included.

Yes, I will be getting new tires soon.

Thanks for all and any help!

1. Wanted to confirm which side each leaf back goes on? One had a "+" the other an "O"


2. I am going to do the diff drop tomorrow, but how do the CV's look? I think its touching a bit. (Pics taken from the front)

3. The top mount for the rear shock? I had an extra washer, was told by one of the guys that works at the auto shop it wasn't needed, wanted to double check his word?


4. The spacing on the bottom shock mount on the axle and the shock body seems very tight, is that correct? Yes, I had to pound the shock to align it and get the bolt through...

 

1. + pack goes on driver's side.
2. Diff drop for 2nd gen is pointless. Stay away.
3. If you have a washer in there you should be good.
4. It is what it is, not like you can f up the installation of the rear shocks, they only go one way.

 

Thanks, there is one washer on bottom then the rubber piece then the frame then another rubber piece and then the second washer, it came with 3 washers total and 2 rubber bushings.

I have heard varying thins about the diff drop and its really not worth it?

 

I've never really read where anyone is super stoked on it and the alignment of it makes me sketched. I've had OME lifts on my 2010 for almost 5 years now without one and only recently had to change put a CV due to damage.

 

Alright, so you think the CV's are good in that picture the way they are?

I did put the "+" leaf on the drivers side so I am good there btw

 

Looks fine to me. You can always do the boot slide mod to help space the fins a little more. Here is a crappy pic of mine after last weekend's install.

 

Time for some tires!!!! Cool truck dude

 

Nice, not a bad idea!

Thanks, and yes those will be next after I install my bumper and winch, which arrived yesterday!