OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

OK, I've read through more threads than I can count but I'm stumped.

2014 DCSB 6sp TRDOR 9000 miles, with an Icon Stage 1 lift set at just under 3" of front lift. Wheels and tires are OEM. I had a very good shop do a 4 wheel alignment after the lift and the numbers look good.

Since installation I've had a rumble at 20 mph that can be heard and felt, and an oscillating hum at 40 mph- about 4 seconds of hum then 4 seconds of no hum. There is also a high pitched ringing sound right around 25 mph.

The 20 mph vibe has gotten better as I've dropped the CB. First I installed an OME drop kit, then added washers one at a time. With each 1/4" the rumble lessened. I got to over 1" of drop, ran out of bolt length. I also installed a Toytec front diff drop, which had no effect on any of these issues.

I then installed 3 degree axle shims, and the 40 mph oscillation got a little better.

Then I installed the Streetacos CB drop, which put it at 1.5" of drop. The 20 mph vibe is much less but still there. It had no effect on the 40 mph oscillation or the ringing.

The 20 mph vibe and the ringing remain in 2WD and 4WD, but the 40 mph oscillation happens only in 2WD.

So... where to go from here? I can live with the vibes and ringing if it's not damaging anything. I looked at the ECGS bushing but there's no way mine could be worn out.

 

From what I understand, the vibration that is caused by the needle bearing doesn't necessarily have to do with it being warn out, but more with the length of the bearing. The only way to see if that is your issue is to put it in 4wd and drive and see if the vibration is gone. If it is gone, the sleeve will fix it, if the vibes are still there it is another issue.

 

Try the ECGS bushing and 3° axle shims with no cb drop.

But you may be in for a fight on the ringing. Did it only occur after the lift? Does it happen only at certain speeds? Where does it sound to be coming from?

 

Yes, the 40 mph vibe does go away in 4WD but not the 20 mph vibe.

The ringing happens around 20-30 mph, in both 2 and 4WD. Seems to be coming from the front right.

 

Has anyone had any success at all with the differential drop? Seems like there have been mixed feelings and most have not been able to get rid of the vibration caused by the needle bearing design with the diff drop alone. Recently purchased the ECGS bushing and removal tool but wondered if would also be a good idea to apply the diff drop along with the bushing.

 

The diff drop made no difference at all for me, I get the vibes with and without it. Personally, I installed it to ease the angle on the CVs.

 

Differential drops do NOTHING on second gens except rotate the diff. Doesn't help angle significantly. Also, if you have a diff drop, do not go offroad because your diff is now more exposed and the mounts have broken before on a members rig here.

 

PM'd

 

Wanted to post this here as well. It's from the cheap oem axle thread.

Also If anyone wants a removal tool for the needle bearing I will gladly send mine out. I just have one stipulation, it won't be sent if you don't agree to this, and that is I want it back when you are done. I may need this tool again and I also want to make sure it is available to send to others. I will pay shipping to you and expect you to pay shipping back. Hope that sounds fair. I will be traveling in the truck for the next few months and I don't have an internet phone so it may be a few days to a week between check ins with the computer. I will try to be prompt.

 

Got mine done yesterday , bearing was a bit of a pain but it worked out . No axle shaft damage yet , just polished where the bearing rode on it . Bearing was amazingly sloppy , way tighter with the new bushing .

Thanks to ECGS for doing this .

Thanks to Toyota for crappy engineering and letting Corporate profit margins cheapen an otherwise potentially great truck - I'm looking to get rid of it after seeing how it's built .

Vibes gone at least , 32,520 miles on the clock , wow .

Sarge

 

Haha, I agree. Stupid design, but every truck had flaws, you'll sell the tacoma and get another truck with a whole new set of problems that don't have near as many solutions available like the tacoma does

 

I'm headed late 70's to early 90's Dodge w/big block - not exactly the same mileage on the highway but you can't break them , either . I see a whole new movement of guys rebuilding older domestic trucks with new crate engines , ect - not a bad idea and some have gotten pretty decent fuel mileage even on 3/4 ton trucks . Problem is finding a good extended cab - they are pretty rare .

Wonder if there has been anyone that's tried to adapt the older IFS gear housing into a 2nd Gen Taco , such as '86 and up Mini trucks ?


Sarge

 

Ah, I see. That'd be a good way to go, but many older trucks I see have rust rot everywhere, so kind of a restoration job.

I have never heard of a front diff transplant on a second gen. There have been some SAS done though

 

· All bushings are for the driver’s side of vehicle only. The passenger side uses a ball bearing that normally does not go bad.

· If you have a vibration and put the vehicle in 4wd and it goes away you likely have a bad needle bearing and need the bushing.

· Most symptoms exude themselves once the vehicle has been lifted past stock

· The stock needle bearing was never designed for side load, once the vehicle is lifted this puts side load on the needle bearing causing it to fail

· 96-04 Tacoma, 02 and older 4runner, 2000-2006 Tundra are 7.5” differentials

· 05 and newer Tacoma, 03 and newer 4runner, 07 and newer FJ Cruiser are 8” differentials

· 07 and newer Tundra are 9” differentials

· Works on all current Tacoma, 4runner and FJ Cruiser models

· The bushing does not fit AWD (Non-Selectable 4wd) differentials in 4runners and FJ Cruiser’s

· The bushing does not fit 7.5” manual hub vehicles

· We have sold over 1300 8” bushings and over 100 7.5” bushings since their introduction with great success

· The life expectancy of the bushing is 500,000 miles

· We recommend 85w140 Non-Synthetic Lucas differential oil

Question: Do I need to replace my CV axle when I replace the needle bearing?
Answer: No, unless your CV joint is damaged or pitted upon removal.
Question: How far do I drive in the bushing?
Answer: Flush with the carrier
Question: What side of the bushing goes into the differential?
Answer: Install replacement bushing with steel face out. The steel face protects the bushing while it is being driven in
Question: Do I need the axle seal?
Answer: We recommend replacing the seal as they are generally damaged upon removal. We use OE Toyota seals like used from the factory.
Question: How hard is the bushing to replace?
Answer: If you can replace a CV joint you can easily replace the bushing

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-1025774-toyota-clamshell-bushings.html

 

Hey Ben, can you (or a moderator) add a link in your first post on this thread pointing to Chase's post above? I'm sure that would be helpful for new people visiting this thread.

 

I don't get why Toyota would use a different type of bearing side to side??

 

The length of the axle tube on each side is different isn't it? That could be it

 

Anyone have a removal tool that they want to sell? If so shoot me a pm...thanks

 

I have a removal tool that could be cycled from person to person that I made - it's just a tig welded pair of grade 8 washers that are cut down to barely fit .
Sort of a "pay it forward" type of thing if folks want to go that route .
First one in line would PayPal shipping cost , and so on....I would like it back someday . USPS Priority Mail would run $5.95 ...

Another thing - mine is totally stock except running LT265/75/16 Toyo ATII's - the vibration showed up at 28K on the clock , bushing fixed the issue completely . I was amazed at how sloppy that stock bearing fit and luckily my axle shaft was not damaged yet . Shame on Toyota for a crap design - they should and do know better .

On a side note - during the reassembly , I noticed the driver's side upper sway bar link rubber boot is torn pretty badly and the grease is leaking out . Looked it up on ToyoDIY and no love - that is a complete part and not cheap , the boots are not sold separately . Anyone had this issue ? Suppose I could just run it until it eats the joint and replace the link but hate crap like that . My old Suzuki had replacement boots available for the tie rods and such but they are a different size head and won't fit - still actually had one in the tool box , lol....

Anyone take off a stock sway bar for a lifted offroad truck and have a link for sale ??

Sarge

 

EDIT: Sold.