INSTALL HOW TO---BAMF 100% bolt on slider

As many of you know, Jerry with BAMF is now offering a 100% bolt on option rock slider that is solid as hell. This comes with a full length mounting plate which uses several of the holes that are already in the frame, and uses a bolt/nut with a made washer for support. This is my experience with the install.

First, they came on a pallet shipped to work. Let's say I was a bit giddy.



I got them without paint, so I would be able to touch them up myself after some scratches and dings. It's smooth tubing and also has welding soot, etc. so you will need to wash them and then sand them smooth. I Wished I had taken them to a paint shop to at least media blast them for me. There were a lot of welds to brush, and some tight spots some sanding couldn't quite get into. I painted them in two settings to be able to get the top and bottoms painted without laying upside down with paint falling on my face.



After painting I used some stands and a jack to mount them up. Now for the fun. When these arrive, you get a hodgepodge of parts in a bag. So I thought I'd help out with what each is for and where they go.

There are bolts/nuts, thick square washers for the back side of the holes in the frame (the holes are too large for the bolts), grade 8 round washers, and some thick washers with welded nuts for areas that don't allow access to tighten a free nut. Here are some pics of the installed bolts with the square thick washers through the frame openings. The top picture is the inside of the frame, the bottom picture is the outside of the frame.



There are a couple of things you need to remove before fitting the sliders to the frame. There is a bracket (first picture below) that needs to be taken off. This simply re-bolts over the slider once installed using the factory bolt. The second thing to remove is the drive shaft cross-arm bolt on the bottom side of the frame. The factory drive shaft cross arm bolt is reused to secure the bottom side of the slider. I think I'm going to eventually change this out just to make sure the thickness of the slider isn't keeping the threads from grabbing all the way through. Pics below of the bolt. Now I had some problems getting one of these installed. The slot on the slider was BARELY overlapping the hole in the frame. I used a c-clamp to draw the side wall together to align the slot and hole, then a jack underneath to flatten out the "flange". These words will probably mean nothing to you unless you encounter the same problem, so if you have no issue then ignore this sentence.




Ok. Now for assembly. This step is important unless you want to unbolt everything you just did and remove the slider to install one more bolt (as I did....). The longer thick washer with the welded bolt shown below needs to be installed into the opening under the front a-arm BEFORE the sliders go on. There are cut-outs in the side of the a-arm and you can finger the piece around to where it needs to be once you get the slider hung. If you bolt up the slider first, you won't be able to put the washer/nut into the opening. I didn't grab a pic before to show the opening, but you will see it, as it's the only one large enough to slip the washer/nut through. The second pic is of it installed.



There are also smaller bolts and square washer/nut as shown below. These go a couple of places, but the main location to ensure you have connected is on the bottom side at the back of the slider. There is an opening in the frame to put the bolt through, and on the upper side is where you put the washer/nut. Simple as that, tighten it up. The other locations for these are obvious. The go on the outside face of the frame where the larger bolt will not fit through.



On a couple of the frame openings, you need to bend the brake lines out of the way to fit the bolts and nuts through. Easy to put a slight bend, and you can do it with your hands. I wouldn't use any tools on this in case you crease the lines. Don't want to cause any cavitation in the lines at this point even if they are only the rear brakes. Below you can see the two locations. One already bent, one doesn't have the bolt through yet to show you the intersecting points. I'm probably going to wrap these with a safety wrap to make sure they don't vibrate on the nut and wear through. They already have a thin protective sleeve over it, but it wouldn't last long rubbing on steel.



The last piece that I didn't get a picture of is about an 8" length of steel that looks like a lever with two nuts welded to it. There are two holes that are not easily reached to bolt up, let alone put a wrench on each side to tighten. The frame is boxed in at this location which is why it's difficult to reach. So they made a handy piece to make this more simple. Hole the "lever" through the boxed portion of the frame, and line up the first bolt. Then you can pivot the "lever" to match up the threads for the second bolt, and tighten down. Ill try and grab a pic of this later installed and update this thread.

 

These things are definitely solid, and look badass. I can't wait to put some dents in them as I know they'll hold up nicely.
Now, for the install pics, and some cover pics in front of the house. Needed to take some new pics anyway after some minor upgrades. Figured I'd do it while the grass is green.

 

Nice thread one thing that rear bolt should be a washer and the nut welded to the large washer should go inside the frame. not sure if thats that way you have it and you just used one of the thick washers but it should be bolted through the frame.

 

I actually do have it bolted up top with the nut welded to the washer. I used the thick washer just for the time being until I could get a smaller washer. The washers for the big bolts were a little too big for this smaller bolt. It was digging in pretty good. Im just going to grab one from lowes and swap out the thick washer shown in the pic.

 

Ahh well you should od had two 3/8" grade 8 washers as well you didn't get those?

 

they look good!

 

Nope, I didn't have any of the 3/8" size.

 

Very nice. I look forward to the day I can get these.

 

You won't be disappointed that's for sure!!

 

I updated the thread a little bit, fixed some typos, and re-worded others to make it easier to follow. I typed it originally on my phone.

 

Super dope! Can't wait to pick mine up. A perk living just a little bit away from Benica

 

I ran into the same issue with my bolt on sliders. I ended up using a longer bolt and fabricated two simple stand off brackets and double nutting the longer bolt to hold it in place where the brake line holders are. It's worked well. Here's a picture before they where cleaned up and painted.



I have about 3/8" clearance, No more chance of rubbing!

 

That looks pretty good! I'll be doing this for the hole that has the bends in the lines (the picture above without a bolt). Did you just use some aluminum bar?

 

Just got done installing mine. Had that same issue with the bottom crossmember bolt and your suggestions on the c-clamps and floor jack worked great.

Jerry responded to my email instantly and suggested me to get that bottom crossmember bolt on first and that definitely helps with the installation. So basically get one loose bolt in on the face of the slider first to help hold the slider in place, have something like jack stands holding the other side and work on that bottom crossmember bolt by using frizbal's method.

I used 5 of the bolts that came with the sliders and 2 of the stock bolts on each slider.

I believe there are 3 bolts that come with the slider that do not need a square washer on the front. I ended up putting a square washer on an unnecessary bolt and had to undo it because there weren't enough for the other side. Hopefully this saves yall some time.

The sliders look amazing and I'm glad I waited for them!

 

Awesome write up sir - I installed my sliders today and this helped cut a little time off of my install, especially knowing to put the from nut/plate deal in first. I put in one of the rear bolts and then let the slider pivot on it to get the front all lined up. One hint for future installers - go ahead and do the driver's side first because it's a bit of a PITA to work around the brake lines. I have fat hands and had to unbolt the brake line brackets in order to get the bar with the two nuts in place. I couldn't reach in there otherwise.

I also had trouble with one of the cross-member bolts, but not due to the slider. For some reason one of my bolts was fubar'd from the factory. The bolt threads are jacked up and I can't get it back in there even with the slider out of the way. Other than those two little things, they went on super easy and look even better than I was expecting.

 

Got under and replaced the oem shaft cross member bolt to some high strength bolts that are a little longer to compensate for the steel and washer. While under, I realized there is a hole that is slotted to make it easier to install. You can hand tighten the nut shown below, and hang the slider here and use it as a pivot to install the bolts upfront. Much easier!!

 

I'll be installing mine tomorrow, this will be very helpful!

 

How much are these for a double cab?

 

You'll have to check with @JLee. The price may still not be finalized for this design style.

 

I did my install last night and I was able to slide the bar/nut into the holes in the side of the a-arm shown in the picture above. The driver side one slipped in just fine. The passenger one was a little tight but hitting the bar/nut with a hammer helped get it in (it was barely too big to slide in and was getting caught on the tail end of the bolt as it slid in)

As for the drive shaft cross-arm bolt issue, luckily the holes lined up but I did need to use a c-clamp to pull the slider upward against the frame rail so I could get the bolt in far enough to catch the threads.

Lastly, anyone who has the black box on the passenger side, you can slide it forward a bit, use one of the factory bolts to bolt the rear mounting hole to the front most frame rail mount point. You then just need to tilt the plate slightly forward to be able to get the black cover back on