Is this Safe?

In my truck I hooked up my amp and sub like this is this safe tell me what you think! I turn it off when the trucks off and on when I want it on. I cant wire the remote wire to my deck because its the stock head unit.

 

I'm no stereo guy, but that looks all wrong to me.

I'd put the fused lead to a key-on circuit. If you want a manual switch for the amp, put it in that lead. Get rid of the un-fused lead and the direct battery connections.

As is, it looks at risk for a burn down on the un-fused side, or a dead battery when you forget to hit the switch.

 

Can you give us a little more info on what your running? I would be wary of the switch, too easy to space it out, leave it on and drain your battery, but that's just me.

 

you could splice into any 12v on with ignition line. There is one that goes to the stock headunit.

 

I didnt want to cut into my factory wiring harness. and on my fuse box I dont know which one comes on when you turn the key on. I have a 2007 toyota tacoma double cab if that helps with anything.

 

If I put a inline fuse on the wire going to the REM on my amp would that make it safer?

 

I've done many setups and installs in my time and that switch to turn the amp on and off is all wrong your going to burn up that amp and drain your battery in a heart beat take the switch out and when you don't want to run the sub either manually turn it down on your amp, disconnect your ground with a quick distconnect, or turn the bass down on your head unit don't run a switch to turn the power on and off totally unsafe for you and your truck

 

Buy a 12V test light. It's easy to figure out.

 

You can buy a digital meter at Harbor Freight good enough for this type work for $6. Skipping one mediocre burger will get you one!

 

If you are scared to find an ignition wire you could use a fuse tap and tap one of the power window fuses under the dash for your remote wire. Those windows only receive power when the ignition is on.

 

So this is what my interior fuse panel looks like. Which one am I going to need to use for the REM on the amp.

 

You can use a fuse tap to tap into any of those fuses that have power only when the ignition is on. Anything with P/W is a power window and would work.. Just make sure your tap has the right amp rating for the fuse your tapping into and fuse your remote wire with a smaller 3-5 amp fuse.

 

You are looking to use a part like this:


That's a fuse tap. The original use rating goes in the bottom and the top would be a 3 amp fuse for the remote wire. Make sure you get a tap for the right fuse size. You then connect your remote wire up to the blue crimp connection and you have a fused connection that will only come on when the key is on!

 

So if i do it this way

and the fuse tap is tapped into the ACC 7.5A The amp should preform fine?

 

The amp will perform fine as long as your ground is clean. The remote wire just turns the amp on. It doesn't carry any current that goes to producing sound.

 

Alright thanks for all your help guys! if I have any more questions I will ask. Thanks Again!!

 

When adding an amp to a stock deck without a power antenna (blue) wire, I've always used a "line output converter". It turns the amp on and off when the stereo sends a signal to the speakers.

It taps into the left and right speaker wires.

$13 PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter 1.2x6.25x5.9

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Va...&sr=1-1&keywords=line+out+converter+subwoofer

 

I actually have one a friend gave me that he used in his Mustang but I have no clue how I would get it to work?

It is a scosche line out converter fai-4 (NOT FAI-3A!!!)

 

Yours is for multi channel, if you want to keep it simple get the one I recommended above.

Its easy, the input wires tap into the existing left and right speaker wires and the output are RCA jack to the amp.

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