1983 Toyota Pickup

Sub'd

 

But then there are people like JLee who make us guys look like idiots.. That's why I don't feel like I got anything to show off.. Now if I had the equipment and skills to do what he does then I'd flaunt that crap everywhere lol

 

Not a lot has been going on lately. I've been working on the truck, but it's mostly been one step forward....two steps back.

I test fit my half doors on my truck the other day just because i wanted to see how they looked.



I also stripped most of the cab. The rust is pretty bad. Can you find the cab mount? lol



Oh and so I informed the guy who originially set my diff. up that everything was off. I didn't want to give it back to him, but he insisted he would make it right. Well, I gave it back to him.....got it back and the pinion preload is not within spec. He told me it was set to 22in/lb. I tried seeing if I could get away with that, but Marlin said it would burn up in the first 100 miles. So i took it to a shop my friend knows, got it back and everything is good now.



Also refinished my locking hubs



And earlier today I was on my way to pick up a w56 and trasfer case. I made it about 5 miles from home in my F150 when the brake pedal went soft. So I turned down a less busy road and tried stopping and plop! the pedal went straight to the floor. I managed to make it home, but now I have another thing to fix on the F150!

On a positive note, I have a lead on a rust-free cab

 

That pattern looks much better! What did he set your backlash at?

 

He set it around .007-.008 which from what I understand is the factory spec. Pinion preload is 14in/lb.

 

Sound good

 

Haha third time is the charm, I hope!

That lead on the cab is a bust. He sent me pictures and the cab floors are starting to bubble up pretty bad. Plus it's been wrecked in the front and it's four hours away. I think my best bet is to just try and fix what I've got.

 

.

 

I may as well live at school and work, but I've slowly been picking away at this thing. I've ordered a bunch of parts - clutch kit and flywheel for the 3rz, e-locker motor guards, triple sticks, I got all my adapters in for the drivetrain and both 23 spline inputs. I'm probably going to send my 2nd bad e-locker to ECGS and they'll send me a fresh one.

I'm currently disassembling the rear case and getting the sections sandblasted before I install the 23 spline input, and then I can bolt it up the range box. Aside from that, the range box is ready to go.





On a side note, wouldn't it be awesome if Toyotas had birfields this big?

 

Awesome man I just picked up some parts for my rig also high pinion diff for 50 bucks from the junk yard

 

I finished up my drivetrain for the most part today. Bolted up the range box to the trans, cleaned up the rear case, installed the 23 spline input and resealed it.

Here is what it's like to build a truck in your house:



Resealing the case with the new 23 spline input:



The rear case and triple sticks are only mocked up in this picture. I need to get a torque wrench that takes the replaceable inserts before I can bolt it up and torque it.

 

Nice! I wish I was all 23 spline... too much money to redo everything though

 

Yeah originally I wasn't going to do 23 spline, but I wanted to use the W59 that came with the truck since it's supposedly stronger and they have the same amount of mileage. I figured I may as well do 23 spline in the rear case, too, while I had it apart.

 

Great job! What's next?

 

Next thing I need to do is figure out what I'm doing for a crossmember. I've been eyeing the FROR skid plate and crossmember, but I'm not sure how well I like it. Personally I'd like to have a crossmember that mounts to either both cases, or the trans and one case that way there is more material supporting the drivetrain.

I've also been contemplating on what to do with the floor. I want to make the trans tunnel removable, but I haven't seen many people do that and it needs to seal up well, too.

 

I would not do that style t case mount. It puts all the rotational stress on the case and it will crack the housing. I have a few buddies that fun budbuilts and are very pleased.

 

I can't use a budbuilt, though, since my rear case is rotated 10 degrees.

 

Ah I must have missed that part. That definitely limits your options. Are you doing a flat belly or just clocking a little?

 

Well if I do a flat belly, it'd be much easier to do it with the FROR cross member. The ground clearance will probably be lower on anything I make. My friend has his cross member and says it's not an issue if you use poly mounts on the engine, too.

I think it'd be fun to make my own, but I'm not really sure where to start. For now I'm going to cut the rubber portion off the trans mount and transfer case mount and just see where that takes me. If all else fails I can fall back on the FROR style.

 

I finished my front axle the other day (the 2nd one) and finally got it on all fours. I also got a decent deal on some 35's and went down to ECGS and picked up a 2nd e-locker to put in the Tacoma rear. Next thing to do is pull it out of the packing house and start fitting my drivetrain.



Number two ready to go in!