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Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by jspadaro, Mar 24, 2011.

  1. Feb 27, 2015 at 7:07 PM
    #521
    R0dzilla75

    R0dzilla75 Well-Known Member

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    HID fog light 265-70-17 Firestone destination ATs Led interiors lights TRD seat covers
    Mobile made my rear chatter. I have a sport so I've got the lsd. I'd steer clear of mobile one and use conventional valvoline with a tube of additive. That's what I do and I'm at 114k on my 2005.
     
  2. Feb 27, 2015 at 8:01 PM
    #522
    tacomakid96

    tacomakid96 Lions Not Sheep

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    I've used Mobile1 synthetics in every truck I've owned and have never had a problem :confused:
     
  3. Feb 27, 2015 at 8:24 PM
    #523
    R0dzilla75

    R0dzilla75 Well-Known Member

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    Check on toyotanation. Lots of folks have issues. I use mobile one engine oil, just not in the rear diff.
     
  4. Feb 28, 2015 at 1:21 AM
    #524
    robssol

    robssol If it ain't broke, leave it the eff alone!

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    Frame 2.0, Fog lights anytime, Seatbelt reminder delete, Secondary air filter delete, LED bed lights, Running boards, 2017 Rims, Devil Horns by Andres, Ultra gauge, Cup holder/consol/glove compartment lights, Interior LED conversion, Blue Sea aux. fuse panel, fuse panel mounting plate by Yotamac, ProEFX heated towing mirrors, LED engine bay lights, Redline Quicklift Elite hood struts, Wet Okole Heated Seat Covers, Pop and Lock tailgate theft deterrent mod 2.0, Plasti-dip rear bumper. Decal free visors, Washable cabin air filter, Overhead consol auto dimming override switch, BulletProof Fabricating Skid plate, 2lo module.
    No issues with the Mobil1 in my LSD rear end.:D
     
  5. Feb 28, 2015 at 7:45 AM
    #525
    texvet61

    texvet61 Well-Known Member

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    Lighting: Phillips LED headlights, BD's S2pro fog lights, LP4 pro and LP9Pro Racing LED's, Black OaK IR cubes. COMMS: Cobra WSX75 CB, Icom 7000 Ham Radio, antenna; Alpha MotoSS HF 80m-40m, CA-2x4SR tri-band 2m/70cm/ - AUDIO: ALPINE ILX-W650, KTA-450 Amp, S-A60M 300Wt mono amp, F/R door speakers, JL Audio C2-650X, JLAudio Micor 8" sub. C4 Fab Hybrid Bumper, Warn VF12000S, Locking Rear seat Gun Vault. Locking Console Gun Vault, FPV winch Camera,
    not sure of the difference, I just read that a lot of people seem to like Royal Purple so that is what I ran with in all gear cases, and just to be sure I also added the KM additive.
     
  6. Mar 10, 2015 at 12:22 PM
    #526
    rhion82

    rhion82 El Duderino

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    Know what I am doing this weekend when I install new UCAs. Thanks
     
  7. Mar 10, 2015 at 5:22 PM
    #527
    DouginNC

    DouginNC Well-Known Member

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    I changed the front and rear diff fluid on my 2014 TRD Sport today with no issues. Truck has 23,000 miles. Front fill and drain plugs came out easily. Front fluid was dark and seemed to have some water in it. Rear fill and drain plugs came out easily. Color was pretty good in the rear. Replaced with Redline 75w-85 per the owners manual. The Harbor Freight pump worked great, just needed to cut off about an inch off the neck of the Redline bottle to get the pump to fit. I'll change the transfer case at 30,000 miles.
     
  8. Apr 9, 2015 at 11:54 PM
    #528
    baurat88

    baurat88 Well-Known Member

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    TRD skid, BAMF light bar, 20in double row LED bar
    Curious about how often to change these fluids. I have a 2014 DCLB TRD sport and read the manual and nothing in the maintenenance guide says how often to change these fluids, only if you put heavy loads and tow a lot or do offroading. Dealer said it likely never needs to be changed if you never put a huge load on your truck. Sounds pretty odd to never have to change it.
    I don't tow or go offroading much, so how often do i really need to change these fluids?
     
  9. Apr 10, 2015 at 7:38 AM
    #529
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    If you buy a new truck every three years you don't need to do anything.. the dealer would love that - if you want to keep the truck do the maintenance. My rear diff looked like milk and smelled at 30,000 - my front wasn't too bad but I changed it anyway - I changed the rear at 60 but not the front since it looked good but I don't take it in the wood or tow - be interested 2 C what others answer.
     
  10. Apr 10, 2015 at 9:26 AM
    #530
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    CBI bed rack and sliders, Backwoods Adventure Mods front and rear bumpers, etc. And some stickers.
    I will continue to do the rear every 30K, but will do front every 60K. Front looked practically new at 30K, and I don't use 4WD that much.
     
  11. Apr 10, 2015 at 9:57 AM
    #531
    texvet61

    texvet61 Well-Known Member

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    I change all every 30K unless something occurs that dictates otherwise
     
  12. Apr 10, 2015 at 1:35 PM
    #532
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like my situation exactly. Use 4WD a few times a year when it snows and the roads haven't been done. Front looked practically new at 30K on my truck too.
     
  13. Apr 11, 2015 at 11:04 AM
    #533
    GreenYoda

    GreenYoda Well-Known Member

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    The whole procedure doesn't required a lot of money to do yourself. Just a little bit of time for the peace of mind. I did it on my 98 as per the manual and all three pieces (front diff, xfer case, and rear diff) still worked perfect when the truck was recalled. I think it's cheap preventive maintenance. You can skip it if you want, but I would go ahead and ask the dealer what a new piece installed would cost. I bet it's a whole lot more than the lifetime cost of doing the maintenance.

    - Brian
     
  14. Apr 20, 2015 at 4:40 PM
    #534
    tacohound

    tacohound Well-Known Member

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    thanks to this thread I saved myself a whole lot of time and money. I have a TRD sport and added the LSD additive to it and no issues that I have heard.
     
  15. Apr 24, 2015 at 10:47 AM
    #535
    Norteno

    Norteno Member

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    Thanks, I followed this thread and it was easy. People say you don't need the hand pump, but it sure made it easy. Like others, when I pulled the plug it started to ooze out then BAM it shot its load and I missed my pan.
    I need to buy some more gear oil and do the rear which should be easier
     
  16. Apr 24, 2015 at 4:14 PM
    #536
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

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    Same here.

    I just did my 60K (well, 56k) and the transfer case and front diff looked almost new. The same appearance in color was at my 30K too.
     
  17. Apr 24, 2015 at 7:20 PM
    #537
    DouginNC

    DouginNC Well-Known Member

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    If you'll loosen the fill plug, but leave it in when removing the drain plug, the old fluid will come out slower and won't miss the pan.
     
    Stryker420 likes this.
  18. May 2, 2015 at 3:13 AM
    #538
    doorsidedown

    doorsidedown Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for this thread. Got all my fluids changed out in just under an hour. Not to mention saved a bunch of money.
     
  19. May 5, 2015 at 7:40 PM
    #539
    BRUIN8124

    BRUIN8124 Well-Known Member

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    Rear diff and t-case, done! No problem!
    Now the front diff is a different story. Fill plug came out fine. The drain plug won't budge and is now stripped. Damn it!!!!
    How do I get that drain plug out now? It was never drained so it is drivable.
     
    Glocker23 likes this.
  20. May 5, 2015 at 7:51 PM
    #540
    slcsez2000

    slcsez2000 Well-Known Member

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    Get another plug from the dealer and drill it out if it is stripped too much..? That is what I prob would do.
     
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