testing air filters/cfm/maf?

So I'm trying to figure out if my air filter is being restrictive.. I have a volant cai for my 01 3.4.. I used the oiled cone filter that can with it for a bit. Then I bought the Donaldson powercore G2 filter and used that, which is a superior dry filter. The first one I had, was a (iirc) 4" flange. The intake tube is 3.5". So I used one of those big rubber 'washer/spacers' to fill the gap. The flange was also a bit of a cone shape like a velocity cone, attached to the cylindrical filter. I since replaced it with a new one and got the correct size flange (3.5) and put it on. This filter is the same size, except for the flange being smaller, as well as the flange 'cone' attached to the filter being shorter and flimsier. I didn't notice any change in performance at the time. But I'm trying to diagnose a bit of power loss I'm having. For a while I thought it was my cats getting clogged. Which I believe they were. But I recently had a whole new system installed and she still seems a bit sluggish. I'm considering all options but for this specific thread I'm looking for answers about testing the maf flow rates.

So I read in the Haynes the grams/sec is supposed to be 4-7/sec. Mine is idling at about 3 per sec.. I'm wondering if this filter is being a little restrictive. I can't really notice anything at idle or lower rpms. But it is sluggish on the top end. I know bigger tires plays a part in that. But I'm still convinced there's another issue... I just wanna check this to make sure it's flowing properly. And I'm unsure if it makes a huge difference with the different filters. On a side note, I do plan on doing a 'custom' cai kit in the future. Volant sells a kit for that and I want to route it to the fender like the stock setup was for that 'true' cold air. As well as using a straight through designed air filter they sell. So no flanges or cones, all straight through and no restrictions for sure. And no it's not the filter element itself, it's got a much higher flow rating. So these tests and whatnot will help for when I get to that and know what to look for.

SO.... What I'm thinking about doing is buying a regular cone oiled filter, perhaps from AutoZone, to test the flow rates that gives. But NOT oil it, so I can effectively return it for a refund.. Think that'll work? I want to test the flow rates both at idle, as well as a SHORT test drive on the road. So that I don't pull in too many contaminants. I know they have dry cone filters too, but no one carries them in town so I'd have to order one then return. Which takes too long. AutoZone sells the spectre oiled filters so I was just gonna try one of those and see what happens. Test the flow rates of that and compare it to the powercore filter I have now. I don't have either of the other two filters I had before. So I won't be able to compare it to anything, not even stock setups unless someone's got the data...

So let me know what you guys think. As far as testing these and if it'll work. And if anyone's ever tested the cfm or grams/sec rates. With any types of filters/setups.

Also if anyone's got any idea what kind of flow I should be looking for that'd help. I know they are designed to handle a specific flow rate and modifying it too much will affect it. But from what I understand, keeping the intake tubing close to the stock should be sufficient. Which for now I have the volant intake tube. I'm just changing the filters. Obviously the flow rate on the powercore will be higher, but the intake tube will only allow so much to flow so the filter shouldn't matter unless it's too small or the cfm rating is lower than it calls for. I'm just thinking the flange on the filter itself is being restrictive. Seeing as it's pulling air in from a cylindrical filter versus a cone filter that pulls air in from 360* around it..

Here's a pic of the filters.
oiled:

Powercore g2:

 

Dude - that's a long post... I'm no expert but unless you have an extremely dirty filter or oiled filter that's saturated and maybe coating the MAF, I don't think changing filter types is going to significantly impact performance. Run it without a filter for a bit to see if you get the performance back, just not in a dust storm.

 

Test? how? do you have a calibrated flow bench or just a butt dyno? I could see your concern if you were running a 2000 HP engine at WOT for hours on end but on a 3.4 in a daily driver get real. I would be much more concerned with the filters ability to trap dirt than flow numbers.

 

Are you using the OBDII to see what your MAF fow rate is? If so, cleaning or replacing the MAF could make your reading come up. As the MAF gets dirty/old, it will report less air flow than what is actually flowing. This is especially true on intake setups that use oil on the filter. The oil can get sucked in and coat the MAF. I recently replaced mine (since it was the original with 150K miles on it) and the OBDII reported air flow went way up so the truck is able to get the correct air/fuel mixture. It runs a lot better now.

$87 Denso 197-6020 Mass Air Flow Sensor, Regular

http://www.amazon.com/Denso-197-602...=UTF8&qid=1431108118&sr=8-1&keywords=197-6020

 

Whoah. That was long. Cuz for some reason it posted it twice in a row same post. Lol. Edited.. Think it's this new draft saving or some shit..

And yeah I probly am over thinking this. But I'd assume if it's being restrictive then I'm not gonna be getting the correct air flow and fuel trims. I AM getting bad mileage she seems to be real sluggish. And I think my fuel trims are high. I really don't know. I do experience a boost in power as well sometimes. At around 3500-4500 rpms when I accelerate hard, it gets a sudden power boost and takes off... It could just be a faulty maf sensor. But I'd hate to buy a $70+ part and not have a change. Just trying to understand how all this works and see if I can diagnose it.

And yes I'm using the torque app. Not the best benchmarking test to do but it works. I can see the fuel trims and maf readings and whatnot. Just not sure what I'm supposed to be seeing. I wanted to take it and have a real diagnostic ran, but figured I could do it myself. If it comes down to it, I'll just replace the maf sensor.

 

Basically exactly this ^^^ is where I'm going with all that.