Greasing Slip Joint / Boot?

Take it to a drive line shop and have them chop it off and weld it back 90 degrees out of phase.

 

is anybody figure how to put a zerk ?!

 

I id this on my 2011 ford and getting ready to tackle the2013 Taco I simply drilled and taped a hole in the outer slip spline beyond the limit of travel of the inner spline and installed a Zerk . A couple of pumps of the grease gun about every 10 k and no more thunk clunk on the ford. I expect the same result on the Taco.

 

Go for the long haul, drill and tap for the zerk fitting, for the zip tie ,I used a S/S from Home Depot. Works better than the original. I grease mine when the u joints are due. Good luck.

 

can you post a picture i am kind of visual

 

Sold the ford haven't done the taco yet but both trucks have the same driveline lay out and I expect the same result's. Its old school but still used in HD applications on larger trucks.

 

what ? absolutely NOT.

>>>>>>teflon in grease is foolish marketing scam and teflon doesn't do anything when inside grease. dupont (they invented teflon) does not back up any grease manufacturer who puts teflon in grease.<<<<<<

it has to be nlgi 2 lithium soap base MOLY grease. MOLY is what is used for sliding metal surfaces.

Molybdenum disulfide is what fills in the microscopic valleys in metal surfaces when they slide across each other and it is --required-- on any Toyota slip joint or else those slip joints will wear out and get loose over time and result in a sloppy drivetrain

 

whit that mod how do you know how much grease to pump in ?!

 

You stated in your post on adding a zerk fitting on the slip joint that you bought a stainless steel band at Home Depot to secure the boot.

Can you tell me where in Home Depot you found the clamp, or even better, a part number?

Thank you for your help.

 

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=stainless+steel+zip+tie

I couldn't find them at HD or Ace. I got these.

 

Thank you. I looked in HD and Lowes and could find nothing. Perhaps a regional sale of the item.

 

Heres a Vid of how to do it this is. 2012 in the vid
https://youtu.be/AvKwgjpsbdg

 

I post this as cautionary information only:

Just for interest, I bought on Ebay , Audels "Automobile Guide" copyright 1972, a good general reference by the way.

In the chapter on Driveshafts and Universal joints ..."troubles and remedies"... "roughness and vibration at all speeds"... "item (I)".... "excessive grease in dust boot"... "remove all grease and repack with correct amount" .

Apparently this was a cause of vibration when the spline was over greased via grease gun and the boot became filled with grease and the balance was thrown off.

 

If you install a zerk, the grease probably isn't going to be evenly distributed to all the splines because there's no means to allow passage- there needs to be a circumferential groove. Without it, the grease will pump into the spline where it intersects the zerk and then maybe down the spline and into the boot. It would be nice to see what happens after pumping grease into the zerk- don't put the boot on. If it just comes out the end you get the above result.

 

Hey nd4spdbh, old post but were you able to get your yoke rephrased 90? Did it help? I reached same conclusion that if last U-Joint has high angle then it will benefit by rotating it 90.

 

Tag him like this @nd4spdbh

 

Haha, quoting or tagging all the same, you still get notification.


@Desert Dog , I have not gotten the chance to pull apart the slip yoke but from my research there is an indexing key on the splines that wont allow you to phase it any other way than it should be. That stated, rotating the center joint 90* to phase the 1st and 3rd u joint is so way less than ideal ad when suspension cycles or even a load is put in the truck angles will all change and 1st n 3rd will not be proper.

Best way is to have trans/tcase (1st joint) at close to zero *, then 2nd (middle) and 3rd (pinion) at equal and opposing angles, then maybe add a smidge extra working angle by pointing the pinion down at the 3rd joint so that when under load working running angles of 2nd n 3rd joint are equal to account for axle wrap. This way when the suspension cycles or is loaded, both joints move and increase or decrease in angle at the same rate.

 

Oh yeah

 

Though I must say thanks for bumping this old thread, gonna have to put greasing the spline on my list o things to do here at the end of summer.

 

Did not know that about Tagging, good to know for future!

At risk of starting another long discussion about driveshafts, I fully agree with what you are saying - in theory; unfortunately, Toyota in their questionable wisdom has the first shaft coming out of the T-Case at a 4.5 degree down angle as best as I can measure. So unless I can move the center bearing up (not lowering it as many claim to be the solution) I am stuck with this high angle even if I get the 2nd and 3rd joints to cancel out. Now the basic rules of U-Joints is the first joint adds a oscillating vibration, 2nd shaft, being 90 degrees out of phase, subtracts from that (but can't fully cancel it out unless angles are same) and third U-Joint then adds more vibration in since it is 180 degrees out of phase with first joint - which is same as being in line with first joint from driveshaft perspective. In my case I and measure 4.5 degree down angle at first joint, 1.4 down at 2nd and 3.5 up at third and some very over simplistic math suggests if I subtract the 1.4 from the 4.5, I'll be left with 3.1 degree of mismatch in angles and I could come close to canceling out if I can rephrase my rear yoke 90 degree out of phase with first one and still have some reserve for axle wrap. Actual equation involve Sine/Cosine calculations so this is a gross oversimplification but hand calcs show this to be not too far off.

Fortunately, and despite these angles, I am not noticing vibration issues and reluctant ro cut up an otherwise good driveshaft to reorient the rear yoke unless someone else has proven this in practice. Your suggestion to shim axle rotation up to better match the 2nd joint angle is probably the safest and tried approach.