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rear shoe replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by yota243, May 16, 2015.

  1. May 16, 2015 at 3:50 PM
    #1
    yota243

    yota243 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bw s256 turbo with 3 in glass pack dumped pre axle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front . C channel front bumper. Maxxis bighorn 255/85/16
    So i embarked upon rear shoe replacement today and took some pics and notes along the way.


    1st and could be most importantly, DO NOT SET YOUR E BRAKE. (I wasnt think early the morning and i somehow managed to do the first side with it set, even after i thought i released it, only to latter realize i had popped the hood in stead).

    2. Remove tire (jack the truck up and properly secure is actually step two but u knew that) then u will notice there are two threaded holes, one on either side. I used two bolts that hold in the tail gate latch for these holes.


    Tighten each evenly and the drum should slide right off after a few turns (if u dint have the e brake on)
    3
    I started with the bottom pink/purple spring and work my way up (take better pics than i did so u no where and how they all go, and only do one side at a time so if somethin goes wrong u can just look at the other side) these boogers here are kind of a pain for some clips. I just used a flat head to spread em open and the ln pry them off, dont break them u need them for new shoes
    Old vs. New (193000 miles on old as far as i know
    4 or 5 or where ever i am now. I used engine degreaseser and sprayed on the new shoes ti get all the factory grease off and reinstalled everything in inverse order. Also i back the adjust all the way out so i would have plant of room for putting the drum back on.


    Special notes. This piece goes in hump u and the pink spring goes behind the little black tab, i had to fix the spring on the first side i did after i started the second side all done and i used 3 lugnuts to tighten the drum back on evenl[​IMG], i had to bleed my brakes when i finished because i opened the bleed to relieve pressure from e brake so that may not be required. Also the coil spring that holds the shoe braket to the back of the housing was too stiff for me to put it back on with just my fingers, im sure there is a special tool for this but i just clipped about one coil off of it and grunted a little.
     
    lagbc likes this.
  2. May 16, 2015 at 7:53 PM
    #2
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Probably not a good idea to go cutting up the springs. They are designed with a certain amount of loading and that goes to crap when they are cut off. I would replace those springs with new. I use pliers for reinstalling those. Grab the disk and press and turn 90 degrees.

    Special drum brake tools: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251516312626?lpid=82&chn=ps
     
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    #2
  3. May 17, 2015 at 4:59 AM
    #3
    yota243

    yota243 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    How did u use pliers? I tried channel locks and needle nose and even a c clamp, but could get both side to compress evenly and get that shaft to go thru the cent and still have enough room to manipulate that plate. I really figured with all the other springs and the drum and the pressure that the shoes apply to the drums, the remaining 4 coils on each side would suffice. I guess i could be mistaken
     
  4. May 17, 2015 at 5:33 AM
    #4
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    youtube has a lot of videos on Tacoma rear brakes. Maybe not many for 2nd Gen, but it would be my guess there isn't a lot of differences in rear brake technology/setup between the 2 Gens.
     
  5. May 17, 2015 at 7:27 PM
    #5
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    The other coils have a tendency to pull the shoes off of parallel from the backing plate. These coils hold the shoes in parallel with respect to the backing plate. With the coils missing a turn the spring tension is less and it could effect the brakes. Maybe, but it could be fine... Just food for thought.

    I have never had an issue installing those with pliers. Grab it by the edges, push it on against the spring and twist it 90 degrees.
     
  6. Jul 25, 2019 at 3:02 PM
    #6
    lagbc

    lagbc Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for this tip - saved me fair bit of time!
     
    yota243[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  7. Jul 25, 2019 at 3:44 PM
    #7
    yota243

    yota243 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bw s256 turbo with 3 in glass pack dumped pre axle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front . C channel front bumper. Maxxis bighorn 255/85/16
    I actually just replaced the rotors on my wife's rav4 and bummed a couple bolts of the exhaust heat shield for the same trick haha
     
    lagbc[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Jul 26, 2019 at 8:09 AM
    #8
    81shark

    81shark Well-Known Member

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    i used a bigger pair of pliers.. opened wide enough to hold the disc. put the pin in the back, held the spring on with one finger and pressed the disc down and turned. the first one was the biggest pita, but after i figured it out, the rest only took half a dozen attempts each
     
    yota243[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  9. Jul 26, 2019 at 8:10 AM
    #9
    81shark

    81shark Well-Known Member

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    my shoes came with new clips....

    also, they make latex gloves so you can keep that brake dust off your skin. i like clean skin. haha
     
  10. Jul 26, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #10
    kimo

    kimo Well-Known Member

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    New spring kits are cheap too. Comes with all new clips etc
     

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