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Parking brake sticking

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Rosscopeeko, Apr 4, 2015.

  1. Apr 4, 2015 at 1:51 PM
    #1
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My 2008 Tacoma started having the parking brake sticking a couple of months ago. I could release it by stomping on the brakes repeatedly and eventually it would let go. Yesterday I took the drums off and didn't see anything obvious. The truck only has 76k miles on it. I removed one drum with difficulty to look inside and couldn't really tell where I should lubricate the parking brake components. My rotors were rusted and the bolt holes to assist in removing the drums stripped out. Anyways, I got both drums off and there is no leaking axle seals. Can anyone help me out? I read a post by bamatoy to apply dry graphite lubricant on the parking brake assembly. I'm not sure where this is? Also, the cable looks fine, but could it perhaps be the cable?
     
  2. Apr 4, 2015 at 2:53 PM
    #2
    offgrid taco

    offgrid taco Well-Known Member

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    Where the parking brake comes into the drum on the back side there is a cast aluminum piece that meets the steel brake cable wrap. This piece corrodes over time and will cause the parking brake cable to stick on. I don think there is any way to fix it besides replacing the cable assembly which is one piece and only available from the dealer. I think $150ish each side. Kind of a pain to do, you need to pull apart the center console to access it in the cab.
     
  3. Apr 4, 2015 at 3:03 PM
    #3
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Really? What a crap setup. My truck is an auto with the ebrake on the left foot area. Would this cable run down the rocker panel and up to the pedal? Is there any lube limits inside the drum?
     
  4. Apr 4, 2015 at 3:22 PM
    #4
    offgrid taco

    offgrid taco Well-Known Member

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    Im not sure on the auto. The cable has to split in two at some point to go to each side of the axle. Follow the cables from the axle to the cab and find where they join together. In the manual it is done under the center console. No idea where they do it for the auto, maybe under the cab floor. As far as lube goes, I wouldnt go to heavy you dont want that shit flying around and causing problems stopping.:D
     
  5. Apr 4, 2015 at 3:44 PM
    #5
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your help offgrid. I noticed where the cable goes into the drum when I had the drums off. It looked clean with no corrosion. I'll try taking the drums off again and living the cable at that point. I'm in Canada and dealer prices are through the roof. I'd like to avoid buying the cable if I can.
     
  6. Apr 4, 2015 at 3:57 PM
    #6
    offgrid taco

    offgrid taco Well-Known Member

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    Mine looked clean also but my cables were frozen solid. You could remove both cables from the brakes and see if they move freely when not attached. This is going to be some work but will let you know for sure whether the problem is the cables or the brake assembly. To the best of my knowledge the only item that gets lubed is the self adjuster assembly and possibly the cable if you can even get anything into it.
    FYI I blew my rear end out trying to rock my e brake free in 4 low
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2015
  7. Apr 4, 2015 at 4:01 PM
    #7
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-Pro

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    Bethel Park, PA. Burb of da Burgh.
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    TRD Cat-back Exhaust. Semi-Debadged. Trimmed down stock Antenna. Weathertech vent visors. TRD FJ Cruiser Center Cap Wheel Mod. 265/75/16 Firestone Destination A/T,s . Inverter tapped into for outlet in cab. Tacomaworld sticker which adds 5 hp.
    I get the stuck parking brake after I wash the truck. After hosing out the wheel wells and everything, if I don't drive it and leave the parking brake on. It's stuck pretty good. Till I stomp on the brakes a few times. I try to remember to leave it off after a wash if I don't drive it anywhere immediately after.
     
    Trinakas likes this.
  8. May 19, 2015 at 7:34 AM
    #8
    RCN500

    RCN500 Member

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    Cold air intake and cat back exhaust.
    I just completed a brake cable fix and found the plastic sheath the cable is in has rubbed off the section going into the back of the drum. It was binding in the housing and the cable had also rusted a bit which caused the sticking shoe problem.
    This was all that's wrong with it. So I cut the plastic off and rubbed grease into to cable, (as much as I dare without getting it sprayed around in the drum), i attached a bike inner tube piece I cut, around the "joint",and replaced the cable. It works fine...for now. By this I mean it's working, though it stuck once after heavy rain and freed itself after driving back then forward a little. It'll need replacing ultimately but for now it works fine. As for after market cables I would be interested to know which ones work or else i'm going to try a used cable as long as it's ok to start with.
    One thing I noticed was after i'd adjusted the rear shoes, my axle wrap/warp is a lot better with the rear brakes working properly.
    I have a 2007 crew cab, long bed, sport.
    My larger project is to change the front lines from rubber to braided steel, and also replace the master cylinder because the pedal will still slowly sink to the floor after braking.
    Not the greatest brakes on these trucks, but good enough.
     

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