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How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by chris4x4, Mar 16, 2009.

  1. May 23, 2015 at 3:03 AM
    #1581
    Vegas Tacoma

    Vegas Tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice
     
  2. May 23, 2015 at 8:16 AM
    #1582
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Always COLD. The plug expands to fit tighter when hot, and the threads are softer when hot.
     
  3. May 23, 2015 at 8:48 AM
    #1583
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    The head has coolant flowing thru it, so it stays at a constant (for the most part) temp, while the plug absorbs heat to transfer to the head. If the plugs haven't been changed in a while, its best to do it early in the morning after the vehicle has sat overnight.
     
    TacomaCZman likes this.
  4. May 23, 2015 at 12:40 PM
    #1584
    Vegas Tacoma

    Vegas Tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Chris 4x4, here's hoping whin I get the plugs this week I don't destroy the threads in the cylinder head removing the old spark plug. :fingerscrossed:
     
  5. May 25, 2015 at 10:43 AM
    #1585
    tasnowma

    tasnowma Well-Known Member

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    Just changed out my plugs for the first time on my 06' 4.0. Very informative. I expected it to take 3+ hours but did it in about 1.5 hours. Thanks for the help! Props!
     
  6. Jun 2, 2015 at 1:20 PM
    #1586
    HumboldtReign

    HumboldtReign Where the Grass is Green

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    Awesome write up! Just tackled this and it also only took me about 90 mins, and i wasnt rushing at all. The truck started right up when i was done, and im popping the beer open now!

    edit: i just saw that the plugs should be removed when the engine was cold. I used the truck earlier in the morning to get a few last minute items at the hardware store, but was maybe 5 miles round trip, so i doubt the engine got super hot. Plus it cooled down maybe 20 mins before i started the project. Maybe this is info that should be added to the OP? Sounds like it could potentially do some damage...nonetheless, thanks again for the great post!
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2015
  7. Jun 10, 2015 at 5:05 PM
    #1587
    Hardscrabble

    Hardscrabble Well-Known Member

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    A little of this and a little of that.

    Replaced my spark plugs today for the first (30K) time. I referenced this thread and it was very beneficial. Thanks to Chris4x4 & all the others that contributed/shared knowledge.

    It was an enjoyable job. NGK plugs on drivers side bank, Denso plugs on passenger side bank.
     
    chris4x4[OP] likes this.
  8. Jun 12, 2015 at 8:55 PM
    #1588
    Timothy Dearborn

    Timothy Dearborn New Member

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    Thank you for the information write-up with all the pictures. I am not very mechanically inclined, yet I was able to change my plugs without issue due to your tremendous pictorial. Thank you for taking the time to put this together!
     
    chris4x4[OP] likes this.
  9. Jun 15, 2015 at 8:45 PM
    #1589
    TX Graywolf

    TX Graywolf Member

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    Thanks Chris4x4. May have started years ago but still good today. Thus was the second time I used it. This time on my daughter's 04 4Runner. I went ahead and cleaned the MAS & Throttle Body while I was at it. It was way past time. She bought her 4R used and this was first plug change (NKG & Denso) at 115,000. Gaps were up to .072. Noticed that the NKGs are always worn more than the Denso. Denso back in as suggested.
    I appreciate all the others that added input.
    Thanks again!
    FYI - these Toyota's are easy. Did my wife 05 Excursion V10 last month. That defines hard to get to!
    A cold one is always better these jobs.
     
  10. Jun 16, 2015 at 3:53 PM
    #1590
    rockhopjohn

    rockhopjohn Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the great write up. Made this a quick and easy project. Took about an hour and 15 minutes, and that was with me getting in too big of a hurry and forgetting to reattach the vent hose. Doesn't run so well without that. Originally went down to my local Napa, but they didn't have the NGK or Denso's so made a trek over to the Dealer. I also did all my diffs and transfer case for the first time today, thanks for your write up on that as well.
     
  11. Jun 17, 2015 at 8:21 AM
    #1591
    rockhopjohn

    rockhopjohn Well-Known Member

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    Removing this hose is more trouble than its worth on the newer models. It is easier to remove the clamp ring that attaches the hose to the filter side of the plenum and pull the hose free, then remove the filter side of the plenum housing. This provides plenty of access and only requires a 10mm or Phillips to loosen the clamp.
     
  12. Jun 25, 2015 at 9:58 AM
    #1592
    Tommyb08

    Tommyb08 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Chris4x4, this is an awesome write up. And thank you to all the others who added to it. I think I am going to change them out this weekend...Unless my baby comes, my wife is due any day now!!
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2015
    TacomaCZman likes this.
  13. Jun 28, 2015 at 10:19 AM
    #1593
    JoeSchmuck

    JoeSchmuck Well-Known Member

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    Well even though I though I'd have done this last year just before winter, the weather turned to crap and I just delayed it until today. So my truck is now at 55900 miles and this is the first plug change.

    The write up here was great and did prepare me for the task at hand although I guess because I'm mechanically inclined (having rebuilt a few engines before), removing the drivers side plugs didn't seem to be much of a challenge thankfully, but hey, I'm just glad it's a truck engine with a large and uncluttered engine compartment. I also removed and cleaned the MAF sensor and was going to clean the throttle body but after examination, it was looking very clean. When I hit 100k I'll remove it, clean it and replace the o-ring seal.

    So the plugs were removed on a cold (75F) engine and the plugs were all not very free turning during removal, the new plugs with anti-sieze were all smooth going in until the bottomed out. The cylinder layout on the passenger side from front to rear is 1, 3, 5 whilst the driver side is 2, 4, 6 (I believe this to be true for this engine). The #1 plug was a very burnt look around the base of the insulator which typically indicates a seal leak of the plug metal frame to the insulator. The other five plugs had a slight burnt look, nothing I'd be concerned about.

    Plug 6 (nearest the driver) had a very slight amount of oil on the plug which I was a bit surprised to see since the engine only has 56000 miles on it, but we will see how things look at 100k when I replace them again because this minor amount of oil may be normal since the engine wad been idle for 3 days.

    Old plug gaps: #1 .050, #3 .050, #5 .050, #2 .054, #4 .055, #6 .054. Overall not too bad.

    One thing I had been curious about is a reason for the NGK vs. Denso on dedicated side, thinking maybe there is an indexing for the electrode. I marked each plug as it was removed to indicate the top of the plug when it was fully installed and set them to the side until after I was done with the engine work. I then examined each plug and found out that there does not appear to be an indexing pattern. Indexing is where the plug electrode has a specific orientation such as the weld of the electrode pointing away from the combustion chamber thus allowing more spark to get to the air/fuel mixture. If there was indexing I'd have expected that plugs #1, #3, and #5 would have all pointed in roughly the same orientation however plug 1 was up, 3 was down, 5 was to the side. On the other side was plug 2 was down, 4 was down, 6 was up. (up = open gap area facing up, ground electrode weld facing down). So my indexing theory was blown out of the water.

    I'm not posting a photo of the plugs because they just look like every other plug out there and I have described their condition.
     
  14. Jul 26, 2015 at 10:47 AM
    #1594
    ranamaska

    ranamaska Member

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    Great photo spread! helped out a lot! One more first in the book. I did have one oops. I left the coil unplugged on the B position! Check engine light brought out the Actron scanner. I plugged in the coil. Now I have a "permanent" error!! Check engine light is gone, engine runs fine. There are no real worries. I would like to get rid of the error. Is there a secret key operation sequence that clears such things?
     
  15. Aug 3, 2015 at 10:18 AM
    #1595
    BuddyS

    BuddyS Well-Known Member

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    Thanks to the OP. Swapped my plugs yesterday. Great post; you made it easy for me. Took about an hour. Seems to run a bit smoother now.
     
  16. Aug 6, 2015 at 9:47 PM
    #1596
    PATHFINDER

    PATHFINDER Well-Known Member

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  17. Aug 7, 2015 at 10:06 AM
    #1597
    headhunter247

    headhunter247 Well-Known Member

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    Dearest @chris4x4 every time I change my plugs I think of you and how this post helped me. Thanks again ya filthy animal.
     
  18. Aug 7, 2015 at 1:33 PM
    #1598
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    LOL!! :)
     
  19. Aug 10, 2015 at 4:04 PM
    #1599
    ChiveOn

    ChiveOn City Slickin' Redneck, I wear a suit with a mullet

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    Thank you for this write up!

    Toyota just informed me I need new plugs and they will cost $165 + tax to change :( I'll be doing them this weekend...myself.
     
  20. Aug 11, 2015 at 4:09 PM
    #1600
    mcdee

    mcdee Well-Known Member

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    Not for sure if this is the correct thread to post question but here goes. I have a 12 Prerunner with 3700 total miles. I did buy a Toyota VSC and am wondering if I do not change plugs at 3 year interval if this affects warranty? I do oil and filter changes every 6 months ( I give my neighbor my Mobil 1 synthetic with 500 miles on it ) and take truck out every week and blow it out a little on the freeway, also engage e locker monthly. Should I get my plugs changed for warranty reasons as I will probably keep it 8 years? If not at this time what would you experts recommend for an extremely low mileage driver? Thanks
     

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