New Frame Protection / Pre-Rust

I hit mine with 2 cans of Fluid Film the day after I bought it and again at the six month mark. I plan on repeating this every 6 months for the life of the truck. Rust isn't an issue here but after reading all the horror stories I figured what the heck. Better safe than sorry

 

Yea I'm still not totally sold until I read the fine print on the warranty. I saw fluid film at Autozone today and almost bought a can-it's got a huge following.

 

When you did your Fluidfilm was it hard to get in all nooks and crannys?

 

It takes some crawling around but to be honest I didn't worry too much about missing anything.

 

Did you just use the spray cans?

 

Yes just two spray cans per application. If I lived in an area where rust was a real concern I would probably go a bit slower and use three cans

 

I like your style, Dave. I just brought home my new Taco last week. I used to live in San Diego and now I'm 1.5 hrs north east where it's more dry and the air isn't at all salty. Nevertheless, I'm gonna do the same thing you've done and hit the frame with a couple cans of Fluid Film at least annually just to be safe. Gonna keep this last of the 2nd generation Tacoma "for-ev-er... for-ev-er..." - The Sandlot

 

It was Auto Armor for me applied by a local auto detailing and snow plow dealer. The stuff is waxy. He didn't spray in any holes in doors as he said not necessary but did spray the bottom inside edges of doors externally. Not sure how I feel about the inside bottom of the doors being sprayed as it leaves a yellowish waxy tint and Im one that cleans and waxes the door jams and door bottoms. Doesn't show that much and only with doors open and at the right angle. My primary concern was frame living in this snow belt of Vermont. Frame coating looks really good and the stuff doesn't wash off when going through car wash undercarriage wash like fluid film does.

 

Do you prep the surface area at all, or just go at it?



EDIT: Also picked up a '15 this past summer, so no issues yet to speak of. Not in a high-salt area.

 

I just get right after it

 

If you can access it, it seems as if Krown is the best option out there. IF I did not have access to Krown, I would use Fluid Film.

A paint job is all about preparation. Placing good paint on top of crap paint is not a good option IMHO. Plus it is almost impossible to get everywhere you need to get on a fully assembled truck.

 

Rustoleum "Stops Rust" oil based protective enamel is a great product at a great price.
Brush or roll it on, you'll be surprised how good it can look.

Also, cans of white lithium spray grease with the red straw are great for spraying inside the frame rail. I like CRC brand

 

I sprayed CRC HD corrosion inhibitor along with Eastwood's Heavy Duty anti rust. On my old 2008 I just used the Eastwood stuff and it had no rust when I traded it in a few months ago.

 

With the the fluid film can you just spray it all over your frame or do you have to try to protect vital parts. Example ( drive shafts, break lines, electrical components? I would like to attempt it myself. I have a 2009 and my welds are starting to show signs of rust. I just bought this truck and want it to last.

 

Aim for sensors and lines as well as metal. No hard to them - all good.

 

^^ he means no 'harm' to them, I think. But yeah, you can hit everything. It will coat everything and protect it all the same.

Go crazy!

 

Thanks that's what I meant

 

The day after I bought my truck, I took it in and had it sprayed with Fluid Film by a local repair shop. I have it coated twice a year but probably could get away with once a year. Zero rust even with the heavy use of road salt in our area. I also sprayed my wheels in the winter and the wheels show no sign of corrosion. I am a big believer in Fluid Film and use it on other equipment also.

 

Thank you everyone! I'll give it a shot. Prob just going to pick up a couple cans and do it myself!

 

The key is to protect the frame where you can't actually see it. In the boxed section of the from from the front doors forward. You should use something like this;

http://www.eastwood.com/undercoating-gun-and2-hoses-bottle.html

The hose is NOT long enough to reach all the way from the back to the front, but there are enough access holes to get at everything.


My approach to frame rust control is a heavy coat of asphalt when new (NOT after it has started rusting), an OIL coat EVERY year (chainsaw bar oil is good stuff... or really anything else, the thicker the better) or possibly twice a year, every 2nd year, go over the whole frame for rust -- clean, seal paint IF you find any, which you probably won't, followed by another HEAVY coat of asphalt.

Those who talk about the asphalt allowing rust to form under it are missing the step of oiling it. The oil keeps the asphalt soft and seals any gaps against water intrusion. It basically turns it into a really thick, semi-gooey barrier against water.


The last major suggestion I have about rust, is with regards to the front cab mounts. If you look up into the cab mounts with a flashlight, you will notice that there is an enormous hole at the back of the cab mounts that opens to the inside of the boxed in section of the frame, and *RIGHT* where all the frame rot-through reports indicate near the catalytic converter(s). Problem is that the front tires splash salty road sludge right up into the front cab mounts, and into the frame. The absolute most important thing you can do to protect your frame is to block off those cab mounts so that sludge won't shoot up into the frame any more.