DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4)

BTW, I put the old factory bushing back in and all the knocking and movement is gone.

 

That's what I was asking, if it was just the camera angles. Glad it isn't loose. I know toyota has some crappy welds and all...

 

Just for reference as Rockauto tried to tell me K200773 was for Prerunners only.

Moog Application Guide
http://goo.gl/cMjqvd

 

Wow that's really shitty quality. I have the Moogs on my passenger side and so far so good. No clunks or anything but I've heard the Moogs are crap so I'm sure I'll eventually have issues.

 

Hey fellas, I just completed this bushing change out due to popping in my drivers side front end. The truck drives better since the new bushings, it was beginning to get a little squirrelly on the road.

Once I removed the LCA I used a 12-ton bottle jack and an adapter from the Harbor Freight ball joint adapter kit that fit inside the socket of the A-arm, i.e. a little smaller in diameter than the bushing itself, to press the old bushings out (I wrecked a couple of the bj a-dapta kit collars pressing the new lower ball joint fyi, Chinese quality steel I will be returning to Harbor of Chinese Freight ASAP). Since the bushings are flanged they will only press out towards the outside (i.e. to the front and the rear of the truck, respectively) of the A-arm, unless you somehow remove the flange (In the "redneck bushing press" thread, dude removed the flanges in order to press the bushings the way he did). Tip, keep an eye on the A-arm while using the bottle jack b/c the a-arm will spread. My a-arms survived un-bent but I see potential for ruining them if you were to apply too much pressure with the jack.

I pressed the new bushings in with a c-clamp style ball joint press using a large flat washer on the flanged end of the new larger bushing, and short collars from the Chinese adapter kit on the "threaded, pushing end" of the press. WARNING: Using the large flat washer on the flanged end of the bushing bent the washer on the end of the larger (rear) bushing, but that's all I had to get the job done (adapter collars were too long to all fit inside the bj press, but I had short collars that fit the smaller (front) bushing and it was a breeze relatively speaking). In order to do it right, you'd really need short collars of approximately .5"-.75" "tall" that are the diameters of the bushing flange for each bushing, and the exact diameter of the A-arm bushing sockets in order for the bj press to work, since the standard collars that fit the flanged end of the larger bushing are too long for the press when everything is stacked together. Altogether I'd rate this job a sonofabitch for lacking the proper collars. The plus is that I can now remove a lower control arm from a Tacoma in 20.8 seconds.

I used NAPA replacement bushings and lower ball joints and they were all tight as hell going back in. I greased the heck out of them and the adj. cam bolts - I had one adj bolt that was close to being seized.

I appreciate everyone posting up their methods it's a big help and money saver.

Hope my right up helps. Pics are worth a thousand words, but all I got is words.

 

How was price on the Napa bushings vs Moog? I'm going to change out my Moog front bushings because they're too small and come out by hand..

 

How would a C-shaped ball joint press work in removing and installing the bushings? I watched a video of a guy using one on a lower control arm and it worked slick. I'm going to need to do this as well as my adjustment cam bolts are seized. Thanks for the write ups to those who have done the job already.

 

Just found this for a 4th gen runner. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ5BMfkuHlM

 

[POLL] Can anyone with Moog LCA bushings weigh in here? The Moog LCA bushings are causing the clunk/bang noise in my front end.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/moog-lca-bushing-shifting-bang-clunk.376233/

LCA Sleeve:
Front edge ID: 1.890"
Inner edge ID: 1.886"

$16 Moog K200773 Suspension Control Arm Bushing for Toyota Tacoma

Moog K200773:
Front edge ID: 48.19mm (1.8972")
Inner edge ID: 47.24mm (1.8559")

Factory bushing:
Front edge ID: 1.890"
Inner edge ID: 1.886"

 

I didn't price the Moog's, the NAPA's were around $53 for one and $65 for the other (I don't remember front bushing price vs. rear bushing price and I don't have my invoice on me). You can price them on the NAPA website fyi. They do have a warranty that's also detailed on their website. And you can bet your ass the NAPA's won't come out by hand! lol.

fyi Says made in china on the bushing boxes, but made in japan stamped on the washers that are pressed onto the ends of the inner bushings. So I don't know where they were made but the bushings and the ball joints looked quality to me.

I also oriented the bushings the same way the OEM's were pressed in - I don't know if it makes a difference but wth.

The ball joints come with 45* alemites/zerks - I swapped those for 90*'s which I think allow for easier access with a grease gun.

 

I hear ya. I ordered Factory ones for $97 for the pair of front bushings.. It hurts but it's better than loose bushings.

 

I have developed a clunk, pop, ect in my drivers side front. I have the MOOG bushings as well. My first assumption is the bushing.

I will diagnose and report back.

 

GoPro time

 

Yes, same problem here. They were fine for a few months, but recently I'd noticed a clunk from the front passenger side. Checked all fasteners and all tight. Came across this thread and got under and took a better look. Yup, front moog bushing is out almost a 1/4". I had a shop press them in so I know they were flush at install time (last fall). Just got home from picking up a pair of brand new Toyota lcas off CL for get this - $150 for the set. The Lord was looking out for me for sure as I am currently out of work. Guy had a nice clean '07 with a 6" pro-comp db lift. Hoping to swap both tomorrow.

 

Good score there! I did that with some exhaust manifolds a while back.
I'll be installing my factory front bushings tomorrow. Gonna let the rear Moog ride and see if they stay in place.

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here a say the rears are likely to stay put and here's why. Both bushings push in from the outside of the arm and in. When the front wheel has any impact, it gets pushed up and rearward. When the control arm gets pushed in a rearward direction, the rear bushing gets pushed in (the arm is pushing itself onto the bushing), but the arm is essentially pulling itself off of the front bushing. Maybe install the front moog bushing from back to front, like the rear bushing, and problem solved. Hope that makes sense.

 

I wouldn't change how the bushing is installed. Moog just needs to make a product that fits correctly. The rear bushings actually had to be pressed in except for the first 1/8" or so where the front bushings went in by hand until the last 1/4" (being very generous).

 

Couple hours work this morning and new oem lcas installed. Easy job and no more crappy moog bushings. When I got the passenger side of, the front moog bushing dropped out with the lightest tap. I don't know how long the lbjs are supposed to last (truck has 59k), but since they come already in the lca it's something that I shouldn't have to worry about for years now as a bonus. Thanks for the heads up Sandman. Happy.

 

It looks like Energy Suspension now makes a poly kit: 8.3128 that works with our second Gen trucks. The kit services both the upper and lower control arms, one kit per side of the truck. Kit price is $65.

Energy Suspension 8.3128

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/8.3128

Anyone tried them?

 

Changed out mine yesterday too and the clunk is gone!
Who wants to buy 2 moog front bushings?