First Time DIY Oil Change 2.7l

so my '14 is due for an oil change. wondering if I should use

$100 toyota 0w20 toyota case of 12 quarts full synthetic 0W-20 oil

toyota 0w20 or castrol full syn 0w20...or doesnt matter?

 

Pick your favorite brand and roll with it. Don't lose any sleep overthinking it. I use M1 0w-20 and a PureOne filter...and a new drain plug gasket too.....everytime.

 

Use any major brand 0w-20 and your truck will love it. If you can get the Toyota 0w-20 for a good price, it is one of the lightest on cold startup and will save some fuel if you do lots of short trips <5 miles. Also has lots of Moly, a popular anti-wear additive. Will your truck know the difference? Probably not.

 

Can you buy Toyota oil at a discount somewhere, some of the time (i.e.on sale)?

Same with other major brands?
Maybe there is a WM or AutoZone sales "cycle"...?

Purolator filter equivalent easy to find?

Silly questions, I know, but I have to admit the other vehicle in the family is under warranty and I get a deal with oil changes, so it has been a while since I bought my own oil...

 

In my area at least, Mobil 1 0w-20 is about $22.6x for a 5 qt jug right now at WM. Add a Purolator Classic L10241 filter for $3.8x and your oil change is under $30 with tax. Its a very good oil and the filter is good for 5K at least. Now go get dirty changing that oil.

 

It's just amazing how much confusion (and opinions) there are on this topic. I just faced this dilemma myself, and so googled "2tr-fe engine oil capacity." It would be very odd if the value 6.1 remained a typo in the owners manual all these years, yet in the DIY section of the same owner manual, it shows a illustration that clearly shows the oil level is supposed to be maintained between the two indents in the dip stick. What's a mother to do ?!? Anyway and for what it's worth, I just drained the oil (2013 Tacoma w/15K miles) that was last changed at a Toyota dealership, and almost exactly 5.1 qts drained, including what was in the oil filter and after leaving the oil pan plug out for ~15mins. My guess ... The correct amount is 5.1 qts but the oil pan reservoir is sufficiently large that it can handle the extra quart without any issues, and the only downside (that I can see) is the unnecessary expense of an additional quart of oil with every change.

 

i've taken mine to the dealer since i bought it. they always put 6.1qts.

i even take my own oil to use. i take 6 qts. they put all of it and then pump .1 more of a qt into it from their oil.

i've asked them about it and everything. they say 6.1 if you change the filter and 5.5 if you don't change the filter.

 

What disaster would come of not changing the washer? The worst I could imagine is a minor leak and one would notice this on the ground pretty quickly. I don't change my washer either, but since I use an oil extractor it shouldn't matter...

 

Great bits of information on this thread.

I am just about to do my first (to me) oil change at 15K miles.

Surprise, filter is way, way up there, and likely needs an end-cap wrench.

I got a Purolator replacement filter.
Is it likely that the wrench I should find matching my Purolator (in store), would fit the OEM filter?

BTW, in some very distant past, I remember using a hose clamp on the oil filter, when stuck with no wrench. It gives you some "purchase", much less traumatic than the screwdriver method... plus you can limp somewhere, as your fliter is still intact.

 

Since this is the first time you will be changing the oil on your 2.7L , You will probably find that the oil filter will be very hard to remove . I was told that the filter is installed by robots ( I couldn't remove mine the first time ) . You might be wise in having the first change done at the dealership .... GOOD LUCK .

 

Good Luck, mine was a PITA to get the factory filter off. Also the purolator cap wrench for the PL or L10241 is not the same as the Denso/Toyota filter. The Toyota filter is smaller diameter.The suggestion to have the first change done at the dealer is a good one IMO

 

I have a 2011 Tacoma 4 cyl extended cab. got 265,216 miles on it-- route hwy miles. 6 qrts. works for me every oil change. 7000 miles 75 mph 5w20 conventional walMart oil ever since warranty period expired. 0 (ZERO) problems no change in mpg or power. My route pay can't afford Mobil 1 synthetic @ 5000 miles. plan to roll Tacoma till 500,000 miles or my 70 birthday in 2017, whichever comes first. hope i see the grass from the right side in 2017.

 

I had a friend who didnt replace his washer and it started to leak, the oil lubricated the oil plug threads and it worked its way loose, came off at highway speeds, bounced off the pavement and somehow impaled itself into the truck's driveshaft, making the factory vibrations worse, causing the driveline to fail and snap, when it snapped it smashed the fuel tank sending gasoline onto the exhaust, setting it on fire, and now the oil that came pouring out coated the back tires of the truck making it skid into a ditch, the truck rolled over and the gasoline coated the entire thing burning them all to an untimely death.

All easily avoided by a 45 cent washer.

Or it leaves a stain on your pristine driveway.

I purchased a half-copper half-rubber washer that was designed to be reused. Its held up fine for over 2 years.

As for the oil change, I dump in one 5 gallon jug and a 1qt and call it a day.

 

Well, got my first (to me) oil change done at the dealer a few months ago. Meh.

Now I have some bits ready to do my own (Mobil 1, Purolator).

Still some questions though:

- best trick or tool to get at hard-to-reach filter?
- best way and amount of lift for driveway change?
- best wrench and source for the Purolator L10241?

 

Best trick: buy an oversized Fram Ultra filter (or other synthetic) and change it every other oil change. I use the way-oversized XG8A on mine. Also put a Walmart bag over it to catch drips.
Best Lift: I have 4 leaf rear and 5100s at 0.85 up front.
Best Wrench is none. Don't go beyond hand tight.

Another tip: Fumoto drain valve instead of plug. Drains slower, so it gives you time to finish a beer and open another.

 

"Best Lift": I meant best way to raise truck a bit for better access...!

Wrench: I was thinking removal of old filter, i.e., getting a good grip on it, of course

 

Set of steel ramps, just drive up them. The 4WD is pretty much tall enough to get under without, but the ramps make it hella easier and tilt the oil pan back to get out all the residual oil.

I use channel locks to get the old filter off, loosen it like 1/4 turn and then put your hand in a plastic grocery bag and wrap the bag up and around the filter as you spin it off, otherwise prepare to get oil down your sleeve and on the floor.

I also concur that 6.1q, as spec'd is the way to go, although this does read crazy high on the dipstick. I also never change my washer.

 

I just had first oil change done on my Tacoma 2.7 engine for 5000 checkup. Checked oil at dealership they put in 6 quarts. It was high on dipstick they rechecked it for me and basically told me not too worry about it. Guess I got too follow the manual 6.1 quarts.

 

Do those 5 luggers have greasable driveshafts?

 

I usually get half a dozen filters from the dealership at a reduced price. Fill up with 5.5 qts of Mobile 1 5W-30 with about 1/3 quart of that going directly into the filter before it gets screwed on. 85,000 miles and no issues so far.