96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

Upper mid and lower intake manifold. Fuel rail. I've read it's like 4 hours of work... might just do the exterior GM knock sensor hack.

 

Ugh!

Do you know the resistor mod for the aem fic? Having trouble finding it......

 

Damn it Josh, I keep forgetting to look that shit up for you. It might be different depending on the year of your ECU.

Here is my AEM question thread:

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/169081-aem-fic-5vz-ecm-pinout-help-needed.html

I would get something variable up to 2.2k OHM (ish). The resistance may change depending on your specific truck. I think I have a 1k OHM resistor but will have to check.

Here's my Q&A thread as well:

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/170602-5vz-fe-turbo-build-help-thread.html

 

If anybody has any info on the externally mounded knock sensor hack, I'd appreciate it. After digging up thread after thread, it turns out many boosted 5vz's have issues with the knock sensors going out. I'll probably weld a nut to the front of the block (screwed into a mounting plate) so that it's easy to replace for next time. Anybody who has experienced the ECU limp mode for unresponsive knock sensors on a boosted vehicle knows how absolutely miserable it is.

 

I know a lot of those "knock sensor not working" was actually the engine knocking like hell. Just be careful how you diagnose it. Also, the external knock sensor mounting didnt work too well. Toyota's design is probably the best for knock detection. Check customtacos.com and ttora.com for the knock sensor write-ups. If you are not a member of each, you should be

 

No toyota engine in good shape is going to be knocking like hell a mile above see level at <14 AFR and 5 psi max. I don't know why but toyota knock sensors do not like forced induction. I read a thread of some dude with a S/C that had to replace his knock sensors every 1-2 years so he finally mounted one (or two, can't temember) on the block so it's easy to get to and it's been very reliable for years. I would rather risk advancing timing too much than have to pay $200+$500+ every year or two to get damn near half of the engine apart to replace these sensors. That's just me though...

 

They knocked like a Jehovah's Witness with the TRD S/C. Im not an expert but you won't find the answers on TW. Check out customtacos and Ttora.

 

Lol that's funny. Maybe I'll just save up and have a shop do it right. My AFRs never dip above 12 under boost so I don't know why on earth it would be knocking. Good thing the trusty 3.slow 95 4Runner runs fine

 

Haha....^ Thanks for the links. Let me know if you come across your scematics Chris for the piggyback....

Dude, I'm sorry your having troubles. I know first hand it's taxing. My aem fic is getting slowly installed. Gio, don't you have an fic too?

 

Yeah but none of that crap is installed

 

Going through my notes, I don't know if your ECU has matching pins so probably won't help. I have all the pins for an 01 Tacoma though. If you can verify they are the same, I can tell you what needs to be connected where. I can also verify the resister is 2.2K OHM's and is connected between the Camshaft input and output wires. I don't know if 2.2k ohms will work for your truck; Ive heard it varies between years.

I would get this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-2-2K-...974?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2352325e26

This is where having a patch harness comes handy. Once you get it tuned so the engine light doesnt come on and the AEM FIC is reading a clear signal on the CAM sensor, figure out the final resistance and buy some new, no variable resistors that match the required resistance. Being able to take out the harness helps a lot.

Or ask around for someone that has your year truck and an AEM FIC.

 

Gio, thanks again for finding that ecu wiring pin diagram. I really needed that.

 

Yes...

 

Anything new on your end?

Yeah, that sucks about the sensor. I hope I will not have to deal with that. Does the truck still run?

 

It will run but it's in full retard mode (quite literally) to keep itself from getting damaged.

 

Did you try a hard reset on the computer?

 

Yeah, but it doesn't matter. The computer uses real time immediate data from the knock sensors to retard and advance the timing on the spot. When the signal gets cut off, the truck goes into limp mode. It idles great for about 3 seconds after starting, but quickly goes into limp mode.

 

Let me know if you would like some help with this ^^^^^^. Sure sounds like a pita. What is your plan?

 

I've just been saving a few bucks by riding my bike... this week I'm ordering the parts and hopefully this weekend I can have it running perfect.

 

Ordered a flywheel and dual comp clutch. Mine is going fast. Was it fairly easy to put in? Please tell me no front diff removal.....haha